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m6 ttl vs m4p


sblitz

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You guys are funny.

I have dropped many Ms over the years. All that they needed was some basic body straightening with a hammer, thanks to brass.

If it was Zinc there would be 2 alternatives: tape/cocking over the crack or change for a new top plate.

 

I appreciate people that know what they are talking about. Such nonsense as "drop an M and you can forget about it" should be deleted before Google picks it up. There's too many BS on the net already. No need to add more to it.

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Well said.

 

I don't think I'd be saying "good thing it's brass and not a zinc camera" after dropping it

 

Don't listen to ronan the guy that has no clue whatsoever on the topic but who surely sounds like he knows.

 

A severely dented brass top plate can always be straightened to perfection quite easily in a few minutes, by a trained hand.

 

"thank God it's Brass" is about the first thing that comes to mind when you drop an M.

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Well said.

 

I don't think I'd be saying "good thing it's brass and not a zinc camera" after dropping it

 

Drop your M and it's over, period.

 

Last of your worry is a big maybe if the zinc will crack (chances it won't). Primary worries is RF out of focus, parts getting lose, RF mirror/glass cracking.

 

Chances are it certainly will! Why do you think the bottom plates were still made from brass and not from zinc? Because they would be too brittle.

 

Besides, The Brass' softness amortizes a lot of the impact and there are good chances that not even the rangefinder gets unbalanced.

Often, a 3-foot fall (fall from a chair, a table, from handholding umsteadily) will only cause a dent or two. Zinc doesn't dent or if it does it can never be repaired.

 

But you knew all that already.

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Its like a fairy tale, you drop your camera and the dent can be bashed out again, just like that! Except brass becomes more brittle and liable to split the more you work it.

 

There is nothing wrong with a zinc top on an M4-P (or M6) that a camera strap can't solve. Have the camera around your neck and anything else becomes a freak accident, not something you need to make an elaborate plan for by buying a brass topped camera.

 

Steve

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Drop your M and it's over, period.

OK; So you are saying Current or earlier M's are brittle? You seem to be so negative towards them, that I must wonder why (or even if) you use them? Sorry Ronan, but your negativity is starting to turn me off. David

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Dropping a camera is a reality. You can't just recommend people "not to drop them because it's painful". How pathetic.

 

Ronan, I am maybe in my little world, but you constantly prove your naiveté as soon as you try to sound knowledgeable.

 

250swb, in the Leica world where every average ronan goes insane in indignation at the mere thought of a plastic part, well, a whole Cost-cutting Zinc-plate is no small oversight but more of an insult, if you ask me.

 

But of course, the M6 owners are just being oveprotective of their own ugly-child. Very classic behavior, after all.

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chris -- you seem to be arguing in favor of m4p + meter over the m6 ... fair enough point. some think the onboard is better than having a handheld .. different horses i guess. did you notice a quality difference between the two cameras?

 

My M4-P is in better condition then the M6 I had and felt fractionally smoother but the M6 was bit of a beater (hence why it only cost me £400.) I handle M's all day long at work and theres no noticeable difference in feel between an M4-P and an M6. Both can have a wobbly back door which is my only real complaint about either cameras (although doesn't affect all of them, and easily fixable with a strip of light seal foam)

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I love my m6ttl and use it with slide film. Ive learned to trust it and rarely get a bad exposure. I also enjoy using my sf24 with sfill diffuser for pleasing flash shots. The camera is a tool. Do what feels good and don't let dogma dictate what you do with it. I also have an m 3 that I use with light meter app on my iPhone. Much better IMO than a vc meter. I can't remember the last time I used my cumbersome sekonic meter. I think a year ago when shooting some large format.

 

Nik

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Light meter app on iPhone ? Opinions?

 

I use it with my M4-P. Very reliable and convenient also because you don't need to carry another gadget with you and you can see precisely what you're metering.I liked the old interface better, but anyway it works well.

 

Cheers

 

Carlo

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For me it comes down to the meter. Personally, I do not like to carry an extra meter in my pocket or on the top of the camera. (On top of the camera there is a history of scratching the camera and, of course, making the camera larger and heavier.) M6ttl or Classic, IMHO, may be the perfect camera.

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Seriously guys don't drop your gear, it's painful.

 

Okay, a data point. I had a very serious bicycle crash that mutilated my brand-new M9. The witness said I rolled three times after impact. The impact was enough to destroy the LCD screen, back, bend the top, mutilate a lens hood, and untold internal camera damage (and the camera body broke two of my ribs on one roll). Oh, and broke my helmet and wrecked the bike, too.

 

I came to consciousness in the emergency room, and was released that evening.

 

The next day when I was sensible again, I put the SD card in my Mac and behold! There is a photo on the card, perfectly clear, properly exposed of my mate, Molly, sitting in my ER cubicle. I had taken a photo while semi-conscious! I tried the camera again, although I could not use the menu or LCD and by gosh the thing functioned!

 

So, there's one to add to the stats.

 

BTW - Leica USA did a marvelous and fast job repairing the camera. I have a feeling that it's better than new - being overhauled by Leica USA. Everything is good! So good that I'm tempted to cash out some stock to get a second M9. Nah. I need some dental work yet. Then a new camera!

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