agiledogs Posted September 30, 2011 Share #1 Posted September 30, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) Hi all, I am new to this forum and recently acquired an M7 and couple of lenses. I would like to play around with some real IR photography, but I am not sure exactly how to get started. What I know I need: Film IR Filter What I don't know. ISO setting or compensation level for IR film Focusing with either the 50mm f1 noctilux or 35mm f2 summicron. I have read where focus adjustments are needed as infrafed focuses a bit differently than the visible spectrum, but I have also read leica lenses do not need that adjustment. A general idea of what exposure settings....is this like long exposure shooting, again I have read mixed things where some mention using tripods, yet leica owners talk about hand holding for IR photography. I just want general guidence here. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted September 30, 2011 Posted September 30, 2011 Hi agiledogs, Take a look here Infrared Photogrpahy. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
tgray Posted September 30, 2011 Share #2 Posted September 30, 2011 It really depends on the IR film and the filter used. For Kodak HIE, which was nominally a 400 speed film I think, and a 25 filter (deep red) you can just shoot it normal and get a bit of an IR effect - I used to rate it at around 200 on the camera. For HIE and a filter like an R72 (cutoff at 720 nm), a lot of camera meters can still meter through the filter. I typically set my M7 meter in this configuration at around 1600. I think it all worked out. Unfortunately, HIE is no longer available. Other IR films are usually slower. And also usually aren't as IR sensitive either. One, Ilford SFX200 is not really a full IR film, more like an extended red film. Read up on it at the Ilford site - they should give you some suggestions. Other IR films that I can think of are a Rollei film - Freestyle photo suggests rating it at ISO 25 and an R72 filter, and an Efke film, which Freestyle provides the following suggestions: Testing of this emulsion has shown that the best results are obtained by using an Opaque Hoya R72, Tiffen #87, #89 or B+W 092 filter and rate at 1 - 1.5 ISO. Aperture f/16 - 1 - 8 second exposure. (Reciprocity failure applies) Near-infrared results are obtained by exposing the film at ISO 25 with Red 25A filter. Aperture f/16 Shutter speed 1/30th second. An R72 filter is a good choice for an IR filter in my mind. You can go deeper into the IR with other filters, but the films available today aren't necessarily sensitive in those regions. As far as focusing your lens - it's lens dependent. My Leica 28/2 focused more or less fine, but when I stopped down a bit to f/5.6ish, I got a hot spot in the middle of the frame. My Zeiss 21/4.5 worked great, but I had to adjust the focus on each shot. Fortunately, the DOF is pretty large with that lens and Zeiss provided an IR index mark on the focusing scale. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
fotohuis Posted October 1, 2011 Share #3 Posted October 1, 2011 Actual production real IR (B&W) films are: Efke IR820 and: Rollei IR-400(S), resp. iso 100 and iso 400 without filter. Both they are sensitized till 820nm. Easy to get ( and in all Leica sizes) are the Heliopan IR filters: RG715 (715nm) is most suitable for both IR films. With this filter the Efke IR820 is around iso 1,5 and the Rollei IR-400(S) film iso 12. You have to expose in full sun. The best time is around 15:00h afternoon where you have the best IR light conditions in the atmosphere. Due to he fact IR light has a different breaking index you have to correct a bit for the focus. When using a W.A. lens it will be normally within the D.O.F. Always make a photo without filter (on the regular iso rate) where you can at least check the development of the IR film later. Success! Robert Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
kokoshawnuff Posted October 3, 2011 Share #4 Posted October 3, 2011 I have used Rollei 400 (@ asa 25), with a B+W 092 pretty successfully. Was able to shoot at f/4 and hand-hold the camera while using the internal meter, so it makes it easy. I've also seen some amazing things from the Efke Aura [ATTACH]281244[/ATTACH] M6, Cron 50 @ f/4, B+W 092, Rollei IR 400 exposed at 25 iso Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Michael Geschlecht Posted October 4, 2011 Share #5 Posted October 4, 2011 Hello agiledogs, Welcome to the Forum. 1 thing being discussed here which I didn't notice being clarified is: The filter you need for B&W infrared film is a variety of visually opaque infrared transmitting filter. It is not the same thing as a visually transparent infrared absorbing filter such as the 1 used on an M8. W/ infrared film it is sometimes easier to meter w/ a separate hand held meter not thru the filter. The reason infrared film ISO in terms of infrared sensitivity is sometimes problematical is there is not always a direct correlation between the level of visual light & the availability of infrared light. They are sometimes quite different. Best Regards, Michael Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
iphoenix Posted October 5, 2011 Share #6 Posted October 5, 2011 The reason infrared film ISO in terms of infrared sensitivity is sometimes problematical is there is not always a direct correlation between the level of visual light & the availability of infrared light. They are sometimes quite different. Is one type of light meter better than another when reading infra-red? For instance selenium/silicon cell, CDS, SBC, SPD, etc? Or is it a case of trial and error? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tgray Posted October 5, 2011 Share #7 Posted October 5, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) Is one type of light meter better than another when reading infra-red? For instance selenium/silicon cell, CDS, SBC, SPD, etc? Or is it a case of trial and error? It's usually trial and error. You used to be able to get hand held meters that had been modified and calibrated for IR readings (I think) but not anymore. Just go shoot a roll with your camera and your meter with plenty of bracketing, and figure out what works for your meter, filter, and film. Generally, I've found that if the sun is high and the sky and it's clear or partly cloudy, things work out pretty well. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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