scott kirkpatrick Posted February 12, 2007 Share #61  Posted February 12, 2007 Advertisement (gone after registration) Bill, there are three ways in C1 (at least) to raise the midtones... ...  3) the "best" way to do this in C1 is to use a little curve! Just place a point where you want it, then drag the curve control so your midtones are higher, is all. Unlike the ACR curve control, you won't kill the shot by moving it a bit Also, if you hold down the SHIFT key, you can drag very, very minute amounts. Then use the contrast slider to bring back any contrast! Who needs PS ?  Heh--the *other way* to raise the midtones is to play with the C1 film curves presets. Film extra shadow generally lightens--you guessed it--shadows, but also relatively raises lower midtone detail (it's really just a contrast thing).  Hope this helps. By playing with the individual RGB white point and black point sliders, you can also eliminate nasty lighting casts almost entirely! Try THAT in JPEG  Nice points. I find I use Film extra shadow a lot on bright days to pull up midtones as well as shadows. But here's a question. The C1 3.7.6 generic profile for M8 has the noise filter defaults set way up. Is there a way to get in and zero them out by changing the defaults?  scott Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamie Roberts Posted February 12, 2007 Share #62 Â Posted February 12, 2007 Scott-- Â I don't have LE, but on a shot-shot basis it's on the focus tab. To change your defaults, go to File...Preferences...Process Settings and at the bottom you can change the default noise reduction globally. Â On File...Preferences...Miscellaneous Settings you can change the default sharpening style and amount. Â Hope this helps! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
eronald Posted February 12, 2007 Share #63 Â Posted February 12, 2007 If someone can send me some nice DNG files, I'll whip up a modded profile with better midtones. Â Re. the lights, of course we are seeing Guy quality, and Guy knows about lighting. Â The test with lights is whether they can take the big sessions without overheating, 600-800 images in a row. And there's a quick way to find out which work: Go to your rental shop and ask them. Â Edmund Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Machaon Posted February 12, 2007 Share #64 Â Posted February 12, 2007 Thanks a lot. I have found digital RF much more demanding than my old M2 or M6 !!! May be I am trying to much difficult cases... Thanks again for all your photos, postings and comments. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
carstenw Posted February 12, 2007 Share #65 Â Posted February 12, 2007 I am surprised how sharp these shots all are, considering you were using the 75 Lux. Did you use it on all the tasteful nudes, as well as your daughter and friend shots? What aperture are you using? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
eronald Posted February 12, 2007 Share #66 Â Posted February 12, 2007 I am surprised how sharp these shots all are, considering you were using the 75 Lux. Did you use it on all the tasteful nudes, as well as your daughter and friend shots? What aperture are you using? Â The 75 Lux is very sharp. A bit like the 85/1.2 Canon. The problem is in nailing focus. Â Edmund Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
scott kirkpatrick Posted February 12, 2007 Share #67 Â Posted February 12, 2007 Advertisement (gone after registration) Scott--Â I don't have LE, but on a shot-shot basis it's on the focus tab. To change your defaults, go to File...Preferences...Process Settings and at the bottom you can change the default noise reduction globally. Â On File...Preferences...Miscellaneous Settings you can change the default sharpening style and amount. Â Hope this helps! Â I'm using C1 Pro, too. The alt-P (or File>Preferences) dialogue lets me adjust noise filtering and banding suppression but doesn't touch color noise suppression, which I suspect comes from the camera profile and depends on the ISO setting. It's a bit of a pain to turn it off for each frame that i process. Is there anything in the color editor panels where you can adjust a profile that would allow changing these sorts of settings? Â scott Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
eronald Posted February 12, 2007 Share #68  Posted February 12, 2007 I'm using C1 Pro, too. The alt-P (or File>Preferences) dialogue lets me adjust noise filtering and banding suppression but doesn't touch color noise suppression, which I suspect comes from the camera profile and depends on the ISO setting. It's a bit of a pain to turn it off for each frame that i process. Is there anything in the color editor panels where you can adjust a profile that would allow changing these sorts of settings? scott  What you do is you set all your params and then you save those settings in a stye. Reading the online manual for C1 definitely helps (RTFM!)  Edmund Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guy_mancuso Posted February 13, 2007 Share #69  Posted February 13, 2007 If someone can send me some nice DNG files, I'll whip up a modded profile with better midtones. Re. the lights, of course we are seeing Guy quality, and Guy knows about lighting.  The test with lights is whether they can take the big sessions without overheating, 600-800 images in a row. And there's a quick way to find out which work: Go to your rental shop and ask them.  Edmund   Good point Edmund yes they are nice and can do a nice job but running them without stopping can be a issue. Not really for the fashion guys but for everyday use very handy. I still have a set of Profoto's also. I will send those files when I get home tomorrow on location in town until then. Have a little break Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guy_mancuso Posted February 13, 2007 Share #70 Â Posted February 13, 2007 I am surprised how sharp these shots all are, considering you were using the 75 Lux. Did you use it on all the tasteful nudes, as well as your daughter and friend shots? What aperture are you using? Â Carsten this damn lens is sharp don't let anyone tell you differently. The furthest down i shot was F4 for the girls and Jay was 2.8. If you want the 80 lux look you have to shoot the 75 wide open. I say it is a full stop sharper than the 80 lux Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
robsteve Posted February 13, 2007 Share #71  Posted February 13, 2007 Thanks Guy. I am trying to find out how to get the best focus with a M8 at full aperture (1,4/75 or 2/90 apo) while wearing glasses (progressive). Any trick ?  Best wishes  Focus on the eyes. Once you have that, stop moving the focus then move your body back and forth to keep the images aligned and fire. Sort of the same technique you use shooting macro with a SLR, get the focus right, then fine tune it by moving the camera back and forth. Most missed focus is from subject or your movement. Take lots of shots too, since it is digital after all.  I use the technique above and fire just as the focus is coming in. Focus and recompose seldom works for fast lenses like Summiluxes and Noctiluxes or the longer lenses like 90mm f2 up close.  These are full frame shots, so you can guess were the focus patches were.  This is 90mm APO at f2.   Noctilux, at f1.2. I focused on his eye then recomposed by swinging the camera down quickly and firing.   I used a 135mm Tele-Elmar for this one. I took three shots, this was the sharpest. The eyes are so small in the rangefinder patch, it was difficult to nail the focus.  Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hartmonstr Posted February 13, 2007 Share #72 Â Posted February 13, 2007 Guy did you trigger the flashes with a RF or IR remote, such as a Pocket Wizard? If not, do you know if such a device can safely be used in the M8's hot shoe? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guy_mancuso Posted February 13, 2007 Share #73 Â Posted February 13, 2007 John the Pocket Wizards work fine but i use a new device called MicroSync which the transmitter is very small. I really like this device , I believe Marc uses this also MicroSync Digital - the Smallest, Smartest Wireless Strobe Sync System. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hartmonstr Posted February 13, 2007 Share #74 Â Posted February 13, 2007 Thanks, Guy, what a slick device. My Quantum radio slave is fine on my 1DsMkII, but this thing is perfectly sized for the M8. I'm not too crazy about having to take the sync speed down to 1/180, but it won't matter in the studio. Â Amazon already has my order. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest guy_mancuso Posted February 13, 2007 Share #75 Â Posted February 13, 2007 John it works at 1/250 on the M8 and actually the DMR. There very nice and you will really like it. Just go slow when taking it off , leica's have a tight hot shoe Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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