Xmas Posted May 4, 2011 Share #41 Posted May 4, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) I have some more question please. 1. Can I use tap water to mix film developer? (Tap water may contains some types of chemicals like: Clo, Fluoride) yes 2. Can I use the woody stick to stir the powder? yes, but dont us it for anything else after 3. Should I put 20C water to warm the tank up before I put developer into tank? pre warming the tank is not necessary 4. After fixer, should I put some soap and use tap water to clean film in the tank? when you have finished washing the film in plain tap water then to help the water run off you can use washing up liquid in the final rinse - not more then one droplet, in tank, photo detergent is preferred, but not noticed any difference with liquid detergent. If you are in a hard water area you may need to use deionised water for last wash, to avoid calcium scum on drying, but you will know after the first film dries. note washing the film is important for archival storage 5. Do we hang the wet film immediately or use something to dry it before hanging out? you can let it drip dry, clip top and bottom, or run it between two fingers to wipe off excess water, or use a proper film squegee. 6. Can we use the developer again if I already mixed 1:1. no The same question with stop and fixer. If Yes, how long and how many rolls can we develop with the re-usage liquid? stop is only necessary with prints to stop them staining, many stop baths have a color indicator, otherwise I'd not worry, I use tempered water close to 20C. fixer has an estimated service life in terms of film area on the bottle, the type of film used influences the time in the fixer tabular grain film taker longer. You can open the tank after a short time in the fixer, the film will be milky, when it stops being milky fix for the same length of time again. If when the film takes x2 times longer, to stop being milky I discard it. Noel P.S. I use Ilfords procedure, lots of people will say different... ILFORD PHOTO - Processing a Black & White film Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted May 4, 2011 Posted May 4, 2011 Hi Xmas, Take a look here Which kind of film I should use?. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
tuanvo1982 Posted May 4, 2011 Author Share #42 Posted May 4, 2011 Very clearly. Thank you! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keith (M) Posted May 4, 2011 Share #43 Posted May 4, 2011 Hi Vo Nguyen. Lots of excellent advice has been given in the thread and I hope you have success. Developing b&w film at the kitchen sink is easy - it must be, even I can do it successfully! As others have commented, pulling the reel out of the tank after fixing then pulling the film off the reel and seeing the images there is really rewarding. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andybarton Posted May 4, 2011 Share #44 Posted May 4, 2011 I still think liquid developer is preferable to powder. Hang the drying film diagonally if you can. Any run off then goes to the sproctets and doesn't run down all the exposed frames, but collects on the unimportant sprockets. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuanvo1982 Posted May 4, 2011 Author Share #45 Posted May 4, 2011 All my stuff will be arrived tomorrow morning then I will definitely try at home after rush hours. Sorry because I was asking a lots. Actually, I just want to fill out my gaps in my film knowledge as much as possible before I develop film in my very first time . Even last night, I dreamed about chemical powder, minutes and temperature Thank everyone again for helping me. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
!Nomad64 Posted May 4, 2011 Share #46 Posted May 4, 2011 I have some more question please. 1. Can I use tap water to mix film developer? (Tap water may contains some types of chemicals like: Clo, Fluoride) 2. Can I use the woody stick to stir the powder? 3. Should I put 20C water to warm the tank up before I put developer into tank? 4. After fixer, should I put some soap and use tap water to clean film in the tank? 5. Do we hang the wet film immediately or need something to dry it before hanging out? 6. Do we need agitation in Bath Stop and Fixer? Thank you 1. For the sake of safety you'd better use distilled or demineralized water. Fluoride should be in a negligible percentage. You can eliminate Cl by boiling the water twice in an electric kettle and allowing the water to cool down in a glass recipient. Your problem might be rather Calcium, but this is solved by using wetting agent for final rinsing. 2. I see no problem at that. I used anyway a plastic spoon 3. It won't harm. It would be recommendable if the tank were made out of metal 4. No as to soap. It's not necessary. Using tap water for rinsing is not a problem.Just remember that as long as you're using chemicals it's of the utmost importance that the temperature be kept constant. It would be better if also rinsing water were at the same temperature, but this is quite difficult to manage 5. Yes. You'll want to use the wetting agent in the final rinse. It facilitates drying and prevents the formation of drying marks 6. Yes. Follow the instructions provided with the products. Not agitating will not allow fresh chemicals to interact with the film thus resulting in a weaker action. You're welcome. Anytime. Cheers, Bruno Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xmas Posted May 4, 2011 Share #47 Posted May 4, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) Hi Vo If you are going to use powder dev you need a face mask when mixing with water as the chemicals can cause dermatitis Contact dermatitis - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia not nice, always use rubber gloves, when handling liquids. The used fixer will also stain carpet badly or your fingers. Noel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuanvo1982 Posted May 4, 2011 Author Share #48 Posted May 4, 2011 For developer, bath stop and fixer, it is not difficult to manage these temperatures around 20C, but at rinse and wash.... in this weather, it is very difficult to manage. I think the tap water now is around 10C. Unfortunately, I haven't ordered any wetting agent yet so I just rinse and clip top and bottom then let it drip dry. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andybarton Posted May 4, 2011 Share #49 Posted May 4, 2011 If you don't have a mixer tap, fill a bowl with warmer water and use that to rinse. You may need a few bowls full. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuanvo1982 Posted May 4, 2011 Author Share #50 Posted May 4, 2011 If you don't have a mixer tap, fill a bowl with warmer water and use that to rinse. You may need a few bowls full. Wow I realise that I have a mixed tap. we get temperature issue sorted Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twotone Posted May 4, 2011 Share #51 Posted May 4, 2011 For developer, bath stop and fixer, it is not difficult to manage these temperatures around 20C, but at rinse and wash.... in this weather, it is very difficult to manage. I think the tap water now is around 10C. The incoming cold mains water will be around 16 degrees C at current outside temps however if you have a 'combi' central heating boiler you can set the boiler's hot water temp control to 20 degrees C or near enough, very easy if the boiler has a digital display. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xmas Posted May 5, 2011 Share #52 Posted May 5, 2011 For developer, bath stop and fixer, it is not difficult to manage these temperatures around 20C, but at rinse and wash.... in this weather, it is very difficult to manage. I think the tap water now is around 10C. Unfortunately, I haven't ordered any wetting agent yet so I just rinse and clip top and bottom then let it drip dry. Use 1 drip of dish washing up detergent in the final rinse... Especially if you kettle needs descaling. Noel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuanvo1982 Posted May 5, 2011 Author Share #53 Posted May 5, 2011 I have received my order. My tank is AP Tank. They have a stick put inthe middle of tank. Maybe it is for rotating the reel. I don't know how to use that . Can you suggest or I just take it out of my tank? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
!Nomad64 Posted May 5, 2011 Share #54 Posted May 5, 2011 Yes, it's for rotating and pulling up 'n down the spiral. Cheers, Bruno Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuanvo1982 Posted May 5, 2011 Author Share #55 Posted May 5, 2011 Yes, it's for rotating and pulling up 'n down the spiral. Cheers, Bruno Do do I have to invert and agitate ? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
!Nomad64 Posted May 5, 2011 Share #56 Posted May 5, 2011 You should check the instructions leaflet that came with yr film AND yr developer as to know how, how much and how often to agitate and/or invert, depending from either choice and the dilution degree you choose to use. Cheers, Bruno Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuanvo1982 Posted May 5, 2011 Author Share #57 Posted May 5, 2011 You should check the instructions leaflet that came with yr film AND yr developer as to know how, how much and how often to agitate and/or invert, depending from either choice and the dilution degree you choose to use. Cheers, Bruno OK, I just think we can replace agitate and/or invert by rotating and pulling up 'n down the spiral. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuanvo1982 Posted May 5, 2011 Author Share #58 Posted May 5, 2011 Thank everyone so much. I have done the film processing. It was successful. All my steps are : 1. Mix developer: 750ml H20 + Part A then put Part B. (ILFord ID-11) 2. Mix Developer, Bath Stop, Fixer. Put all into different bottles. Check temperatures. 3. Developing 11 mins, Invert and agitate in every single minute. (1-1) 4. Stopping in 10 seconds (1-19 ILFord Stop) 5. Fixing in 3.30 mins(1-4 ILFord Fix) 6. Rinsing in 15mins with tap water 20C 7. Hang it out. There is a funny thing is that I loaded film wrong so around 10 first frames stay at 1 frame. Fortunately, from 10th frame was loaded normally. Finally, I lost around 10 shots. Secondly, I see water drop marks on the film after it dried because I don't wash with wetting agent. How can we fix now? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xmas Posted May 5, 2011 Share #59 Posted May 5, 2011 Hi Vo If you got a new tank - the tank should have instructions, in the box. There is normally a cylinder the reel fits into this is part of the light trap. A stick for rotating the reel and cylinder. A cap to stop the tank leaking when inverted. You need to file the negatives as they are irreplacable even if you scan, in paper or plastic sleeves. The negative sleeves are part of the running cost. Noel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andybarton Posted May 5, 2011 Share #60 Posted May 5, 2011 It is essential to put the reel on the black tube that is the same height as the tank. This is what forms the light seal so that you can process in the daylight. If you don't put the reel on the central column, light will get in through the top of the tank and your film will be ruined. The water marks can be removed if you re-wash the film and then use the washing-up liquid or PhotoFlo in the final rinse. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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