tuanvo1982 Posted April 30, 2011 Share #1 Posted April 30, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) I just got a M6 classic. M6's body is thinner and lighter than M8 a little bit. It is quite suitable to my hand. It doesn't have an A option so I usually get difficulty when I would like to fix the aperture and to change the speed. I am thinking of fix speed and changing aperture. Turning the speed is quite hard. Do you hv any idea please? Thanks Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted April 30, 2011 Posted April 30, 2011 Hi tuanvo1982, Take a look here Leica M6 experiences please. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
dcoombs Posted April 30, 2011 Share #2 Posted April 30, 2011 Setting the aperture or the shutter speed, and then using the other as the variable is a choice you make depending on the circumstances of the photo you want to take. That is, do you want a shallow or deep depth of field? Do you want (or need) to freeze fast action? Those are some of the decisions which will determine whether you set aperture or shutter speed first. There is no hard and fast rule. If you find turning the shutter dial hard, why don't you practice taking shots without any film. Spending time at it and you will find that adjusting the aperture or shutter speed "on the fly" will become second nature and easy. Enjoy your M6, it's a great camera to get to know. Doug Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guido Posted April 30, 2011 Share #3 Posted April 30, 2011 Turning the dial indeed is hard, which is the main reason why I prefer the M6TTL. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tobey bilek Posted April 30, 2011 Share #4 Posted April 30, 2011 It is not hard, maybe you need a repair. Light shields go bad. Meters go bad , both on early production. I needed to replace shields, but both meters works fine. I only had the RF patch flare out one time since 1985. I am not fixing it. Frame lines are garbage compared to early M models. I got my two in 1985 when they first appeared. They still have the plastic on the bottom. DAG had to adjust the high speed on one when he replaced the light shields. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuanvo1982 Posted April 30, 2011 Author Share #5 Posted April 30, 2011 Curiously, how do I know that the film roll is finished ? My film roll has 35 exposures but even camera shows 38th but I still can load film. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
adli Posted April 30, 2011 Share #6 Posted April 30, 2011 Curiously, how do I know that the film roll is finished ? My film roll has 35 exposures but even camera shows 38th but I still can load film. On a film camera, the film roll is finished when you can't advance more film. If can advance more film you either 1) have more film left or 2) have not loaded the film correctly so the film have never been advanced. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guido Posted April 30, 2011 Share #7 Posted April 30, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) Curiously, how do I know that the film roll is finished ? My film roll has 35 exposures but even camera shows 38th but I still can load film. On a film camera, the film roll is finished when you can't advance more film. If can advance more film you either 1) have more film left or 2) have not loaded the film correctly so the film have never been advanced. I have a very bad feeling here... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuanvo1982 Posted May 1, 2011 Author Share #8 Posted May 1, 2011 I have a very bad feeling here... However, I advance more film then the reward thing on left hand side also was running. I thought It is still has few more exposures in the film roll. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nick_S Posted May 1, 2011 Share #9 Posted May 1, 2011 Curiously, how do I know that the film roll is finished ? My film roll has 35 exposures but even camera shows 38th but I still can load film. Hi, congratulations on your M6, which happens to be my favourite M camera (though some of the a-la carte variations of the MP look tempting). Check that the rewind knob rotates as you wind on film, otherwise the film leader was not located in the take-up spool that will be freely rotating rather than winding on your film. Less likely, you may have forced the wind-on level and stripped the sprocket holes at the edges of the film. My M6 purchased in 1996 still has a stiff shutter speed dial. I tend to preselect a shutter speed to a given light condition and then adjust the aperture to get the exact exposure. As I tend to use the same XP2 film at 200 ISO I know more or less what settings the exposure will require from experience with a little fine tuning using a meter. Nick Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xmas Posted May 1, 2011 Share #10 Posted May 1, 2011 Hi Vo I normally remove the battery cause the LED dots in finder are too compelling, (for me) but the lenses are normally more convenient than the dial, as you can keep your finger on the release. The dial may feel stiff you get used to that... Lots of the lenses have tabs for 'feel', people select lenses for fit in hand rather than MTF. To be fair I use mono, retained silver or C41. You need tanks and changing bag now, soup your own, hang on shower rail, scan or wet print, get cine reel of 5222, bulk loader, most stuff is free, as people move to digital. If you get white flare in range finder spot stick some tape on window... Dont worry about mantenance until you get bad negatives, the local repairers are pretty good, and quick. Noel P.S. see you at weekend, (I'll try and bring different toys to play with)? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tuanvo1982 Posted May 1, 2011 Author Share #11 Posted May 1, 2011 Hi Vo I normally remove the battery cause the LED dots in finder are too compelling, (for me) but the lenses are normally more convenient than the dial, as you can keep your finger on the release. The dial may feel stiff you get used to that... Lots of the lenses have tabs for 'feel', people select lenses for fit in hand rather than MTF. To be fair I use mono, retained silver or C41. You need tanks and changing bag now, soup your own, hang on shower rail, scan or wet print, get cine reel of 5222, bulk loader, most stuff is free, as people move to digital. If you get white flare in range finder spot stick some tape on window... Dont worry about mantenance until you get bad negatives, the local repairers are pretty good, and quick. Noel P.S. see you at weekend, (I'll try and bring different toys to play with)? Fortunately, I found that Coventry University has a Film Lab. There are some developing film BW + C-41 machines. They provide Nikon scanner with 20+ inch Mac screen. This is much more better then my room . Anyway, thank everyone for suggestion. Today, I tried to load another film roll correctly, then I cannot advance at 33th exposure. I got that problem sorted. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
menos I M6 Posted May 2, 2011 Share #12 Posted May 2, 2011 I just got a M6 classic. M6's body is thinner and lighter than M8 a little bit. It is quite suitable to my hand. It doesn't have an A option so I usually get difficulty when I would like to fix the aperture and to change the speed. I am thinking of fix speed and changing aperture. Turning the speed is quite hard.Do you hv any idea please? Thanks The M6 dial should not feel stiff or hard to turn. If it does, it needs repair. I have a silver chrome M6 (~199x), which in fact is the smoothest M, I have used (including M3 and M2). I set the shutter speed on the M6 and MP with my index finger, bracing the fingertip on the top plate edge in front of the dial and flexing my index finger, so the shutter speed dial moves precisely. If you have difficulty, doing that, you can just as well twist the dial between your thumb and index finger tip, reaching your thumb from under the extended advance lever - the design is perfect for this. "Twisting" the dial between thumb and index finger gives some people, coming from the bigger, wrong dials less brain gymnastics as well, as it doesn't collide with logic of the metering LED arrows ;-) I approach metering and exposure setting with a fully manual camera like this: - read the situation and light with your eyes and determine, if you need a specific shutter speed or a specific aperture - go from there and fix one of the two - preset the other value to your best ability and prefocus - frame the scene, checking your metering with a glance and readjust, if needed, - focus, shoot If you feel, that this is slow, force yourself, to shoot the M8 a while like this. The M6 is the best camera, that ever happened to me. It has been my very first Leica and the one, that started this rangefinder thing completely for me. I will have it upgraded with a MP finder at some point and look for a silver chrome MP advance lever to go with it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tobey bilek Posted May 2, 2011 Share #13 Posted May 2, 2011 Never try to get more or extra frames on a roll by force. Manufactures put only so much length into a factory cassette. A frame is always 8 sprocket holes. If you try to forcefully stretch more, there is always the possibility the camera will tear out the film sprocket holes and the chips lodge in the shutter tracks. This will be a fairly major repair. I once purchased a camera with this defect and it took several repair people to determine the cause of the intermittent shutter problems. As long as you get a smooth force free advance, feel free to shoot an extra frame or two. You will not damage the camera, but the processor may not be able to utilize frames too close to the end. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guido Posted May 2, 2011 Share #14 Posted May 2, 2011 You will not damage the camera, but the processor may not be able to utilize frames too close to the end. I don't understand how these processors work and why they are limited in this way. If I develop at home, I don't have such problems. But last time I sent a slide film to the lab, I got back a lovely sunset cut in half on frame 38. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xmas Posted May 2, 2011 Share #15 Posted May 2, 2011 I don't understand how these processors work and why they are limited in this way. If I develop at home, I don't have such problems. But last time I sent a slide film to the lab, I got back a lovely sunset cut in half on frame 38. The mini labs normally use a film extractor and cut the butt end off 2cm proud and butt join to next film, with sticky tape, which may be your last frame one in four occurences. You use a crown cap opener, or swiss army knife style opener? It saves them money not to develop blank frames, D76 is a cheap dev for the projection copies they needed for the movies...Bean counters rule the world. Noel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guido Posted May 2, 2011 Share #16 Posted May 2, 2011 The mini labs normally use a film extractor and cut the butt end off 2cm proud and butt join to next film, with sticky tape, which may be your last frame one in four occurences.Thanks for the explanation. I never figured out how they do it. Yes, I use a cap opener. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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