bill Posted April 20, 2011 Share #21 Posted April 20, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) I see no reason to mess with the Russian lenses. ...because they give a different end-result. Think of lenses like brushes, rather than like pipes. Each gives a different look. My only experience with FSU lenses was the Jupiter-9, 85mm f2.0. It was the first longer focal length lens I had, as it was all that I could afford at the time. It focussed perfectly on my then M6 (I must have had a good one) and was an exceptional portrait lens, sharp as a tack at smaller apertures, soft in the edges wide open and with a smooth, pastel rendition on faster film. Horses for courses. Regards, Bill Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted April 20, 2011 Posted April 20, 2011 Hi bill, Take a look here Jupiter Lenses? Are they worth it?. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
Xmas Posted April 20, 2011 Share #22 Posted April 20, 2011 I see no reason to mess with the Russian lenses. First I'll remind you that the FSU put a man into space/orbit first, and their T34 medium battle tanks accounted for most of the Ge tank kills even if the Ge tanks got more T34. The problem with FSU equipment is that most of the kit was not cherished and has been improperly rebuilt. I use Leica, ZM, CV, Canon, Nikon M and LTM lenses normally, I've not had any rangefinder or optical problems with any LTM FSU lenses yet, lots of dried out grease with FSU fog with Leica and Canon all my ZM have slack in heliciod driver rings, one has location problems,need to find a lens spanner two of the CV have been damaged by primates, who drag the back of their hands on ground... There are two J8 types - the earlier J8 had non rotating focus mounts and nice build quality if you want a long time SC shooter to cherish they are more expensive. - the later J8 have been rationalised and have rotating focus mounts, they work ok though either type is low refractive index glass and needs a hood, wide open you can detect differences with a type IV cron, but these are not normally important unless you photo brick walls. The later ones are normally for free, or 20 GBP on camera stall in street market. A CV f/2.5 is MC, (x10 the cost) and wont be as easy to use on a M8 for specular high light burn, the J8 needs a hood but gives a low contrast (longer scale i.e. compressed image range), lots of film people like the pastel shades or muted mono shadows. There is a big difference in cost between a CV f/2.5 and a Leica f/2.5, but they both have the same harsh high contrast sterile signature. I normally carry a Nikkor HC - SC Sonnar clone (sunny day) and a CV f/2.5 (dull), my last J8 is awaiting rebuild for filter ring damage. Noel Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnloumiles Posted April 20, 2011 Author Share #23 Posted April 20, 2011 Thank you to everyone for you replies! This is like taking a class in russian optics, very much appreciated. I actually got a Nokton 1.4 40 mm for a very good price and I have my eye on a Jupiter 3 50mm that I learned might have some rear focusing problems after reading the article below. Apparently they can be re-shimmed to correct this problem. http://www.stevehuffphoto.com/2011/01/06/jupi-what-shooting-jupiter-lenses-on-the-leica-m9-by-robert-chisholm/ Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xmas Posted April 20, 2011 Share #24 Posted April 20, 2011 Hi That is one of the web gossip articles, just as likely to be true for a fast Leica lens as a fast FSU lens, dont ask how much Solms charge for a recalibration... If your 40mm is SC I'd not bother with anything else, save for 28mm or 25mm, depends how you shoot some people only use one lens a 40mm or a 35mm or a 5cm. Noel Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnloumiles Posted April 21, 2011 Author Share #25 Posted April 21, 2011 If your 40mm is SC I'd not bother with anything else, save for 28mm or 25mm, depends how you shoot some people only use one lens a 40mm or a 35mm or a 5cm. Noel I'm usually a 50 mm guys but I actually think 40 will be perfect as I have an x1 and I've gotten quite use to 35. Speaking of SC, how can I tell if my lens is SC or MC? It makes no mention outside or inside the box. Why particularly is single coated better then multi? Thanks XMAS, I've dedicated you my go to guy for questions, I hope you don't mind. John Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
250swb Posted April 21, 2011 Share #26 Posted April 21, 2011 Why particularly is single coated better then multi? Its not, but the choice is open to the user for using a lens with more flare and 'glow' in the SC, or a more clinical look in the MC. The MC still version still 'glows' wide open, but not as much. Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xmas Posted April 21, 2011 Share #27 Posted April 21, 2011 (edited) Advertisement (gone after registration) I'm usually a 50 mm guys but I actually think 40 will be perfect as I have an x1 and I've gotten quite use to 35. Speaking of SC, how can I tell if my lens is SC or MC? It makes no mention outside or inside the box. Why particularly is single coated better then multi? Thanks XMAS, I've dedicated you my go to guy for questions, I hope you don't mind. John Hi John My 40mm CV f/1.4 has it on the name plate inside the filter hood ring i.e. 'SC', never seen a non single coated 40mm yet, donno if they have a MC or not. I think they sold a lot of SC lenses - a rather larger % than they expected to sell. note my snapshot skopar has an 'MC' in its name plate. It is not better, it is merely different, in color the shades will be less vibrant more pastel, i.e. less real. The range from shadow to highlight will be reduced, so that there is less chance of highlight burn, in a digital M, or short scale film (e.g. slide) in a film M. You can sort of achieve the same effect in photoshop except that the specular highlights will not be there... Some people are very sensitive to the effect some people can ignore it. You will get more flare (with the SC than the MC) in back light shots, some people are annoyed by this. My technical artist friend carries two lenses a MC and a SC the MC for dull days, the SC for sunny days to tame any contrast, on a film M. A Summaron 35mm f/2.8 and a CV 35mm f/2.5, the SC and MC respectively. Noel P.S. I'd get the 40mm a hood SC or MC Edited April 21, 2011 by Xmas added PS Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
250swb Posted April 22, 2011 Share #28 Posted April 22, 2011 Hi John My 40mm CV f/1.4 has it on the name plate inside the filter hood ring i.e. 'SC', never seen a non single coated 40mm yet, donno if they have a MC or not. The MC version is simply marked 'Voigtlander - Nokton Classic - 40mm F1.4 ' Steve 2 Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xmas Posted April 22, 2011 Share #29 Posted April 22, 2011 Hi Steve Thanks, have you got a MC then? Note noticed my SC flare much... Noel Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
250swb Posted April 22, 2011 Share #30 Posted April 22, 2011 Hi Steve Thanks, have you got a MC then? Note noticed my SC flare much... Noel Yes I have an MC VC 40mm f1.4. It a nice enough lens, just a bit soft wide open but very quickly gets better. It has a nice glow wide open, in fact the rendering and sharpness seems very similar to the old Canadian 35mm Summilux. Steve Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xmas Posted April 22, 2011 Share #31 Posted April 22, 2011 Yes I have an MC VC 40mm f1.4. It a nice enough lens, just a bit soft wide open but very quickly gets better. It has a nice glow wide open, in fact the rendering and sharpness seems very similar to the old Canadian 35mm Summilux. Steve Hi Steve It has the same five group, seven element layout, but mine seems better than the lux. It is bigger noticed that. Noel Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
vincentim Posted August 21, 2020 Share #32 Posted August 21, 2020 Hey, I'm willing to acquire a Jupiter 3, Jupiter 8 or both. Can you please recommend someone that could do the shimming process, preferably in Europe, in 2020? Thanks! Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
willeica Posted August 21, 2020 Share #33 Posted August 21, 2020 About using my Jupiter 3 on an M10 https://www.macfilos.com/2018/05/14/2018-5-11-russian-lens-galaxy-from-sonnar-to-jupiter/ I have recently acquired a Jupiter 8, but I have not had an opportunity to use it yet. William Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Peter Leica man Posted September 2, 2020 Share #34 Posted September 2, 2020 I've come across Jupiter lenses in the past. Yes they're ok often they're copies of old Zeiss lenses and they're fine for a bit of fun. But the issue is you might get a good or not so good one. You'll get a certain look to your pics and it might just be what you're after. Just don't expect them to be Summicrons etc. Quote Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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