How to use a Leicameter MR for night shots?

[BlackDE]

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Hi, and sorry for keep asking questions, but how can I use the MR for low light/night photography? My MR does not give me any reading when it is dark. I currently use my Nikon DSLR to meter first and then set my M3 accordingly. Am I doing something wrong?

 

Thanks and cheers,

Bernhard

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[k_g_wolf ✝]

The Leicameter is pretty old (cds-) design and doesn´t read

"in the dark" as good as you might have experienced with

a modern (silicium-)instrument or a NIKON- DSLR.

 

You can shift the meterrange (via the red dot-switch on top)

and follow the reading of a different meterchannel, but it is still not

up to todays meter-standards.

 

 

 

Best

GEORG

[sulskyr]

Also, remember that the MR (and MR-4) meters measure a 27 degree field-of-view (equivalent to a 90 mm lens) and if you are trying to measure small illuminated areas in a larger dark field, the reading will not be accurate.

[scsambrook]

Although the MR meter isn't as sensitive as today's meters, it ought to give you a reading if there's enough light for you to see whatever you're photographing. As Georg said, make sure you've moved the selector switch to the red dot and also - although you'll have done this anyway - make sure your battery is good by using the sliding check-switch. The needle should move up to the silver dot in the read-out window - if it doesn't get so far, the battery is underpowered. Sorry if you knew that aleady !

 

One problem with MR meters is findning suitable PX625 mercury replacements - Alkaline and zinc types apparently may give readings which aren't correct. My MR meter is still running on a mercury 625 wich must be well over ten years old, so it's a problem I've yet to face.

 

I suppose one reason for your problem could be a fault with the meter . . . let's hope not.

[Joop van Heijgen]

Hi, and sorry for keep asking questions, but how can I use the MR for low light/night photography? My MR does not give me any reading when it is dark. I currently use my Nikon DSLR to meter first and then set my M3 accordingly. Am I doing something wrong?

 

Thanks and cheers,

Bernhard

 

The MR 4 meter needs a CLA then it gives you a right reading in the 'red scale'.

A good working MR meter is sensitive enough to give you readings in the dark.

Because the MR (and MR-4) meters measure a 27 degree field-of-view (equivalent to a 90 mm lens) you have to correct the metering in dark shorter with 2 or 3 stops.

 

I mostly compare the MR meter with my Leica RE.

With the selective metering of the RE camera the difference in dark is mostly 3 stops shorter.

 

 

You have to experience with it. The MR4 is a fine meter when you know how its works:)

[spydrxx]

When I was using the MR in the 1960s-80s, I felt the same way about the lack of sensitivity in low light. I finally gave up and began using the then current version of the Ultimate Exposure Calculator and never looked back. Ultimate Exposure Computer

[Joop van Heijgen]

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When I was using the MR in the 1960s-80s, I felt the same way about the lack of sensitivity in low light. I finally gave up and began using the then current version of the Ultimate Exposure Calculator and never looked back. Ultimate Exposure Computer

 

Or how not to use the Leicameter MR

 

HOW TO USE THE ULTIMATE EXPOSURE COMPUTER: THROW AWAY YOUR LIGHT METER! :D

[BlackDE]

When I was using the MR in the 1960s-80s, I felt the same way about the lack of sensitivity in low light. I finally gave up and began using the then current version of the Ultimate Exposure Calculator and never looked back. Ultimate Exposure Computer

 

 

This is great. Thank you very much!

Cheers,

Bernhard

[Michael Geschlecht]

Hello BlackDE,

 

 

My MR meter reads EV +2 to +18 @ ISO 100 when used normally. If you take your reading from the white side of your grey card & multiply the exposure by 5 you will come up w/ a correct exposure with the +2 becoming an effective +/- 0 w/ a little to spare. Not too bad for an accurate light meter the size of a pack of chewing gum built before people first walked on the moon. BTW: That means the F2 @ 1 sec becomes F2 @ 5 sec because you never read the space going up to the first bar on the meter or between the last bar & the end @ either level.

 

You can also do another thing quite common before more sensitive meters were developed. You can meter a lighter subsitute than your important scene & interpolate just as you can a darker scene & do the same when conditions warrant.

 

For example: If your subject of main interest is approximately 18% reflectance gray & it is in a scene where the contrast range covers a wide dynamic range you can use readings from one or more of these substitute areas to determine proper exposure for the main interest which is for whatever reason not currently measurable by you.

 

If you meter an image which shows the highest detail value while not becoming entirely white add 3 stops of exposure. 1 sec becomes 3 sec.

 

If it is mostly snow side lit or a lite sand beach + 2 stops.

 

If average caucasian skin +1 stop.

 

Going the other way if circumstances require:

 

w/ same subject same conditions:

 

If what you can meter is the shade of a tree subtract one stop. Your F2 just became 2.8

 

If an average dark shadow -2 stops.

 

If there is texture & a trace of detail -3 stops.

 

Substitute metering is actually not that hard & is often quite handy when you cannot approach your subject appropriately.

 

Best Regards,

 

Michael