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need help, buying used MP - should I ?


menos I M6

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Dirk,

 

Congratulations.

 

On the subject of reusing film canisters; many years ago i used to recycle ILFORD metal film canisters. Trick is to open it gently, usually squeezing the cylinder near the lid and pulling the lid off with the thumb or piece of wood. Putting it back is pretty much same but in reverse. Back in 80s i shot also with EFKE films but they were sold in plastic canisters with screw top so recycling was dead easy.

 

At the moment i am shooting with C-41 process B&W film (develped by others) but own development is not far away :) I think.

 

Can anyone point me in the right direction in respect to silver hallide film scanning, i would appreciate that very much.

 

My DHL delivery arrived yesterday, lovely BP MP with collapsable Elmar :):):)

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On the subject of reusing film canisters; many years ago i used to recycle ILFORD metal film canisters. Trick is to open it gently, usually squeezing the cylinder near the lid and pulling the lid off with the thumb or piece of wood. Putting it back is pretty much same but in reverse. Back in 80s i shot also with EFKE films but they were sold in plastic canisters with screw top so recycling was dead easy.

Think Ilford have a new cassette crimp nowdays wont come undone for me...

Can anyone point me in the right direction in respect to silver hallide film scanning, i would appreciate that very much.

You need to disable the scanner driver digital ICE it wont cope with the film grain, and save in TIFF or other non JPEG format.

You may need to use a softer working developer, or shorter times

 

Enlargers can be obtained for free, paper is still obtainable.

 

I'd suggest starting with your MP the cheapest option is to ask the local mini lab for their used once cassette trash bag. These wil be a proportion of 'extractor and cut' with a protudig film tongue, stick your bulk to this and a sticky label with Ag written on the cassette, so you dont C41 it... You will have to check that they dont try the 'pop it out' tool some mini lab will have, its the bruthe force version of what you did with Ilford's in past.

 

You can get plastic or metal reusables commercially, or could a few years ago.

 

I use the Leica, Contax and FSU relaodables.

 

The only problem (for the future) is the C41 processig kits seem to be more difficult to obtain I may need a balance, and raw chemicals for Xmas..

 

Noel

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Easy on Noel Jonathan ;-)

He has got a point!

 

He'll survive. I'm sure he knows I'm just joking. And he does have a point.

 

Oh - and I will have a look at the crank, if I like it - pretty strange, I saw a nice second hand one selling pretty cheap a few weeks before and thought: "snatch it - one day, you might have a black MP, to go with it … " and then like " … naahhhh those MPs are just to plain expensive, and the M7 is your film shooter anyways …".

 

I passed the deal of course :p

 

I am a crank guy actually - I rewind the Leicas and Nikons (even my F5 …hehe) always with the leader out, counting 28 + 3/4 turns and have a very quick rewind with leader out.

Sometimes, when the 20 seconds rewind is too slow for me, I might rewind the Nikon F5 with motor, switch rewind off at frame 4 and rewind the rest manually … did I mention, I was cranky?

 

You'll find another cheap used MP rewind crank at some point. I've managed to find three.

 

. . . I like her very much ;-)

 

… oh and Jonathan - she loooves your flickr stream ;-)

 

Great to hear, Dirk. Love your photos of the 2010 Shanghai Grand Prix. My girlfriend and I are F1 fans and were there.

 

Anyhow, congrats on your new MP.

 

 

Hi

 

An M6 can do IXMOO, at most you need to swap the baseplate or change its latch. It would be bad to buy a MP and find out your IXMOO did not fit?

It is easy to use a CV or Leica meter in the cold shoe.

An M5 cannot do IXMOO either.

 

Just curious about why IXMOO fits some cameras but not others. I thought film cassettes were film cassettes.

 

I understand about being left eyed, and needing a baseplate lever. I just use my wrong eye.

The M4 to M7 crank is easy to release inadvertently mid wind and have the crank spin back, this is very rare with the simple Barnack/MP knob. With the knob you need to counter twist both the knob and the camera together if you are in a hurry. The add on cranks can score the top plates if you are fussy...

 

Noel

 

I'm right-eyed but use the Leicavit to be immediately ready for the next shot without taking my eye from the viewfinder. I find the Leicavit wind lever also helps me stablilize the camera. Best accessory ever for the Leica M.

 

Theoretically the add-on cranks can score the top plate, but in reality they ride high enough because the wind knob is spring-loaded and you have keep upward pressure on it as you wind, so the danger of scoring the finish is actually very low. But the installation instructions warn that the set screw will leave a nick in your rewind knob, so if you are very fussy you might not want to use one.

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Just curious about why IXMOO fits some cameras but not others. I thought film cassettes were film cassettes.

The casette DIN was 1933 or so and there have been later changes so you need to be cautious.

The problem (show stopper) for MP and M7 users, is the M7 chassis - which reportedly the MP also uses - has DX reader bumps which will foul on IXMOO.

The late M6 had a different baseplate latch which wont open and close IXMOO but an early baseplate (post M4 should be ok) or a change of latch will work around.

The IXMOO are at the end of the tolerance window and wont fit into any M that has not been rebuiit to spec, or using canniballed parts... i.e. commercial casettes have smaller diameters, although some fuji can be tight...

The Barnack Leica cassettes (FILCA) wont fit into any M, they are 2mm longer, too long, the barnacks were standardised pre 1933.

The M5 wont accept FILCA or IXMOO, it also needs take up keys in the wrong end of the spool as well, which are part of the cassette standard, but...

I'm right-eyed but use the Leicavit to be immediately ready for the next shot without taking my eye from the viewfinder. I find the Leicavit wind lever also helps me stablilize the camera. Best accessory ever for the Leica M.

Well i'm impressed as the baseplate destabilises my grip, but I could use a motor, if I accepted bulk and weight.

Theoretically the add-on cranks can score the top plate, but in reality they ride high enough because the wind knob is spring-loaded and you have keep upward pressure on it as you wind, so the danger of scoring the finish is actually very low. But the installation instructions warn that the set screw will leave a nick in your rewind knob, so if you are very fussy you might not want to use one.

Yes but you are assuming the Leica one, lots of other people make them, and you don't have two left hands... My paint just rubs off anyway...

 

Noel

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Noel, the Motor-M is great, I love mine on the M7, but as you say - it is quite a bit heavier and bulky, if you don't care for grips.

 

The MP will remain motor less, as it is nice, compact as it is and quite heavy already ;-)

 

Hi Menos

 

Thanks, Ive got one of the large M4-2 winders, but since I normally use pre M4-2 cameras it does not fit, I can see why you like a nude MP.

 

Noel

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