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Shooting film at night.


packetron

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Congratulations on the M3 and welcome ;-)

 

Don't worry much about metering, pushing, tripods and alike in the beginning.

I am a usual tripod hater, never used one outside, as I hate lugging this thing. A handhold camera, especially such a light and small thing as a Leica gives you soo many opportunities, to shoot quickly, when running big stuff just goes in the way.

 

I use at the moment 3 Nikon and 2 Leica film cameras. All interestingly set up with … you guess it: Kodak TX400, fixed at ISO3200.

 

I don't shoot the film at box speed. My standard film speed for all cameras is ISO3200.

I shoot mostly during the night and develop the film either in the bathroom with Kodak TMax Developer 1:1 or in the lab with D-76.

 

Lately, I shoot also Neopan 400 @ ISO3200, exactly the same, as I shoot TriX.

 

I meter TriX usually @ +1/3 − 2/3 EV, depending on the scene (but that is a thing, how I meter and develop, not how the film goes).

 

I don't have much film shots online, but this is a usual shot I get from ISO3200 pushing:

 

_DSC9070-Z.jpg

"Z" Hong Kong | Leica M7 | 35 Lux ASPH | TriX400 @ ISO3200

 

_DSC9070-Edit-crop-1.jpg

"Z" 1:1 crop

 

_DSC9070-Edit-crop-2.jpg

"Z" 1:1 crop

 

These are "scanned" with a Nikon D3 + 60mm f2.8 Macro lens on a light table @ 1:1 - so it is only 12MP.

I experiment at the moment with stitching 35mm negatives with the setup @ 2:1 and will upgrade the D3 with a higher resolution body at a later point.

This setup (DSLR + high res repro lens + light table) is technically able to supersede drum scan quality and has put my flatbed EPSON into office work entirely. The only limitation so far is the rather soft digital files from the Nikon D3 (not the ideal camera for this setup) and the resolution of the sensor in combination with the magnification factor, the repro lens can achieve with extension tubes.

For A3+ prints, it is more than enough though.

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For night photography in B&W with an M, I use Neopan 1600 and Ilford Delta 3200 or Kodak T-Max 3200, but only rarely Tri-X. I always shoot at box speed, but I don't do my own processing and haven't for nearly 30 years now. Night photography in B&W translates as night-time street photography for me.

 

For cityscapes, I use Velvia 100 or Ektar with an SLR and wideangle mounted on a tripod, metering with a Minolta Autometer II with the spot attachment. Ektar is gorgeous for night photography and is easy because it has no reciprocity failure. Velvia 100 renders ghostly surrealistic colors at night. For this kind of photography, I take the filter off the lens to avoid secondary reflections.

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Shooting at night is very hard. All the aspects just gets more difficult because the darkness (metering, focussing, etc ). I use the intern metering system from my Leica M6 and it's very hard not to underexpose because the effects of lamps, so be carefull about that! But, when all goes well, the atmosphere is superbe ! :)

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Kodak T-max 400 Pushed to 1600 is really good in T-Max Developer.

 

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These are the few samples from my night shoot. The lack of a tripod results in burry shots but overall, i'm quite satisfied with the pictures. Comments, feedback welcome.

 

Very good start. Do I assume correctly this is Singapore?

 

Stefan

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Go out and do a dozen throw away frames close to home and get the technique down.

 

Personally I dislike pushed filmed with empty black shadows.

 

6 exposures is 12" of film. Put some tape on the bench to measure as there is no need to use a whole roll. Add 1.5" for each additional frame and then one or two to be sure.

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Thanks all for your comments. I guess shooting film at night is one of those difficult moments to master and thus offer one of the most interesting challenges for any aspiring photographers. Great shot mob81!! I read all the links offered here and am going to get more books in to perfect my skills. And yes, my shots are taken in Singapore during the Lunar New Year Festivals.

 

Cheers!

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