Twotone Posted January 14, 2011 Share #1 Posted January 14, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) Hi guys, another stupid noob question here:p But can someone expand on this question I've just bought an M3 and Summicron 50 F2.0 and have been looking about for an exposure meter, the obvious choice being a Leicameter MR-4, but I'm wondering if indeed I do need a meter after reading the quote in the subject line. From when I used film back in the day, LOL, I always used either asa 100 colour film or sometime asa 400 colour film and generally used F8 and 125th sec speed or maybe as low as 30th sec speed. Would these sorts of exposure speeds and aperture settings be the same for B&W, light dependent of course? My intention is to shoot low light indoors without flash and outdoors without flash in both daylight and at night with only the one lens. Thanks Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted January 14, 2011 Posted January 14, 2011 Hi Twotone, Take a look here B&W film doesn't need a meter?. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
tgray Posted January 14, 2011 Share #2 Posted January 14, 2011 You can certainly shoot B&W without a meter. Sunny-16. You have to be able to judge lighting of other scenes though. If you are shooting in lots of lighting situations, it's nice to have a meter. The Sekonic 308 is a nice meter. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twotone Posted January 14, 2011 Author Share #3 Posted January 14, 2011 You can certainly shoot B&W without a meter. Sunny-16. You have to be able to judge lighting of other scenes though. If you are shooting in lots of lighting situations, it's nice to have a meter. The Sekonic 308 is a nice meter. Thanks, the Sekonic is a hand held meter isn't it? I recall that the general advice regarding shutter speed was down the focal length of the lens, i.e. 50mm is equal to a 60th sec but ideally you would want to go to 125th sec for most subjects that are moving and set the aperture according to the light so for example indoors at night about F2.8 or wider depending on the lens. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pico Posted January 14, 2011 Share #4 Posted January 14, 2011 Good heavens. Get a lightmeter. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill Posted January 14, 2011 Share #5 Posted January 14, 2011 Nonsense. I use Sunny-16 all the time. All it needs is a bit of brain. Regards, Bill Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
earleygallery Posted January 14, 2011 Share #6 Posted January 14, 2011 Sunny 16 ain't so good indoors at night though as the OP is looking to shoot. It also requires a basic level of understanding IMHO, and it appears the OP is a bit confused. Buy a handeld meter first, learn to use it and eventually you'll be able to meter by eye in most situations. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
tobey bilek Posted January 14, 2011 Share #7 Posted January 14, 2011 Advertisement (gone after registration) Film must be exposed correctly for best results. There is a certain fudge factor with neg film generally to the overexposure side by a small amount, 1/2 stop. You can expose using "sunny 16" rule for sunlight and get decent exposures outdoors in common lighting conditions. When you get into uncommon dark conditions without previous experience, you have no chance. I recommend an incident Light meter or a spot meter and learning how to use it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Xmas Posted January 14, 2011 Share #8 Posted January 14, 2011 Hi I'm with Toby except I'd not recommend a spot meter, unless you are working in slowly changing situations, and can spend time on each shot. You will need a sensitive meter and tripod or other support if you are going to use available darkness. Initially I'd use one of the chromogenic monochrome films like Ilford XP2, which have very wide exposure latitudes. If you are really intent on dark you will need a scanner (& photoshop) or enlarger (& burning and dodging), to get prints like you may visualise, or wish for. Noel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
StS Posted January 14, 2011 Share #9 Posted January 14, 2011 (...) My intention is to shoot low light indoors without flash (...) Definitely needs a meter, in my view and outdoors without flash in both daylight Should work on Sunny 16, especially with BW400 or XP2 (...) and at night with only the one lens. (...) Again, I would use the meter here I would get a meter in any case and compare its reading with your guesses. If you are off less than a stop, you can go without in the daylight. Strong contrast should always be metered. I have a Leicameter for my M3 but almost never used it, but handheld meters instead. The Leicameter makes the camera too clumsy, to my taste. Stefan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
giordano Posted January 14, 2011 Share #10 Posted January 14, 2011 Nonsense. I use Sunny-16 all the time. All it needs is a bit of brain. Bill, Bill, read the OP. He's talking about shooting in low light indoors and out. On the street at night you and your Leica II may have enough brainpower between you to nail the exposure on the subject's face without blowing out the neon sign or losing detail in her boots, but there's no shame in the rest of us using a meter. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twotone Posted January 15, 2011 Author Share #11 Posted January 15, 2011 Thanks for the replies and constructive comments guys. I think I'm going to buy a Liecameter M-4, in hopefully mint condition, as I like the look of them on the camera and they do look fairly easy to use unfortunately however they are very expensive SH in that condition, cheapest one I've seen on-line so far is £125 plus postage so I'm going to look into the handheld meter suggested above for comparison. However no one has explained how to take shots without a meter or why B&W film doesn't require one, any takers? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill Posted January 15, 2011 Share #12 Posted January 15, 2011 "Sunny-16" indoors and out. Not just for sunny days... Google it, but in very simple terms the Sunny-16 rule gives you an exposure guideline based upon the behaviour of your film choice on a sunny day. Using that as a baseline you can extrapolate behaviour in other conditions. If you are still set on a meter get something younger like a Digisix or a CV meter ll - both can be hotshoe-mounted. B&W film typically has a wide exposure latitude, btw. Regards, Bill Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pop Posted January 15, 2011 Share #13 Posted January 15, 2011 "Sunny-16" indoors and out. Not just for sunny days... Bill, shouldn't you call that "Shady-16", in that case? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twotone Posted January 15, 2011 Author Share #14 Posted January 15, 2011 "Sunny-16" indoors and out. Not just for sunny days... Google it, but in very simple terms the Sunny-16 rule gives you an exposure guideline based upon the behaviour of your film choice on a sunny day. Using that as a baseline you can extrapolate behaviour in other conditions. If you are still set on a meter get something younger like a Digisix or a CV meter ll - both can be hotshoe-mounted. B&W film typically has a wide exposure latitude, btw. Regards, Bill Thanks Bill, beautiful pics BTW, they're just the sort of pics/lighting I'm looking at trying to do myself. You seem to be suggesting that a meter isn't required? I really just want to go out with the camera, lens and some film and get on with taking photos. "If you are still set on a meter" Thanks for the meter recommendations. Kind regards, Tony Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
MPerson Posted January 15, 2011 Share #15 Posted January 15, 2011 As Bill said a CV II is worthwhile. I have one for my M2, slim, unobtrusive and looks the part. The Sekonic is also shoe mount but bigger and plasticky. Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/141683-bw-film-doesnt-need-a-meter/?do=findComment&comment=1559010'>More sharing options...
roguewave Posted January 20, 2011 Share #16 Posted January 20, 2011 I believe a good meter is essential. I use the small Gossen Digisix. In fact, it lives in my right front pocket. I'm always trying to guess the light and it teaches me so much about how one get's fooled by how your brain & perception work. If you want the most important details to render what is in your imagination, getting the metering right is the baseline. From there, you the freedom to craft your image with little restriction. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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