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Focusing Issues


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Nick,

thanks for sharing. I like the 120 mm portrait of the boy (with the orange paint/Make-Up)

 

Somehow I feel I'm starting to recognize the signature of the 120. Wonderful sharpness and OOF drawing, even in such a small web image.

 

You should see the 20x30" print!

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In the final 2 days before I have to keep or return my S2.

 

I have to tell you that I was always skeptical about the value when buying a Leica (and I worked for the scientific instruments group for 10 years in the 80/90s). However and the is a whopping however.... I am totally blown away by this camera. there is something about the way it captures images that is just... I struggle to find the right word, but I think "Alive" is the best I have found so far. My P65+ is a great camera, but I use it because I have to use it. The leica... I want to pick it up and use it. I want to take it everywhere I go. I simply love it...

 

OK, now I have that off my chest. I have today and tomorrow to figure out whether there are any defects in this unit (I bought it used, but from a very honest and reliable supplier).

 

Focus testing

 

My first experience was that you have to have a steady hand to shoot ambient light - better than the Phase one, but not as good or easy as the 1D MK IV or 5D MK II, or my favorite AF system - Nikon's D3. However, totally what I expected.

 

My second impression was that you have to pay extra attention to what you are focusing on. It seems to be very sensitive to subtle AF target positioning. I don't mean in the sense of the difference between MF and 35mm, but just the way the camera interprets the target. I often find myself making small adjustments and half pressing the shutter release to reacquire the focus. After a couple of attempts on a tough target, I get the correct focus. I need to understand how this works, so I can adapt/target properly in the future.

 

So this really bothered me... am I compensating for a problem in the camera, or is the camera just different and I need to develop a new and better technique?

 

So I pulled out me lens align target and took a couple of shots. I have posted one below. For those who do not know it. You align the camera to the unit. Focus on the targets to the lest and then you can read/view the DOF range on the ruler. My theory was that this is the ultimate proof whether the AF system is accurate and any errors beyond that would have to be lighting/situation or techniques issues. Here is the image - it was totally repeatable . I took the pictures inside and handheld. Absolutely incorrect for an perfect result, but I figured that I would try handheld first and move to a tripod if I had a problem.

 

photostream

 

 

Just in case you cannot see the photo, here is the flicker link

 

Looks good to me... What do you think?

 

I am about to do a F22 sky shot to look for sensor damage.

 

Any other suggestions?

 

This forum has been indispensable to me thus far. Thank you so much!!

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I'd call this 'nailed'.

 

In my experience, no AF can be totally accurate but this is as good as I'd expect from any AF on the market today. if you need better then you have to focus manually, the eye is always better than any automated system. You trade convenience and speed against ultimate accuracy.

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Just finished my studio test shoot.

This camera is just amazing. Amazing! AMAZING!

I love it.

There is no way this is going back...

I love the feel, the interface, the speed and moist importantly, the image quality that I just looks so good.

I heard complaints about the tethered performance. In the shoot today, it was fine. no slower than the P65+

The only thing I will have to get used to is the lens exchange, just does not feel natural, with the release button on the right. I guess it was designed by a lefty.

 

Anyway. LOVE IT.

 

Nick

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Just finished my studio test shoot.

This camera is just amazing. Amazing! AMAZING!

I love it.

There is no way this is going back...

I love the feel, the interface, the speed and moist importantly, the image quality that I just looks so good.

I heard complaints about the tethered performance. In the shoot today, it was fine. no slower than the P65+

The only thing I will have to get used to is the lens exchange, just does not feel natural, with the release button on the right. I guess it was designed by a lefty.

 

Anyway. LOVE IT.

 

Nick

 

Nick,

 

Glad you are liking the S2. It is hard not to...

 

Regarding changing lenses, the concept is that you never have to take your shooting hand (the right one) off the camera to change lenses or replace a battery. Just press the lens release button with your middle finger on your right hand while holding the camera normally and turn the lens with your left. Grab the other lens, align the red dots and twist towards your right hand. There are even textured areas where your thumb and forefinger are designed to grip the lenses. I've been using the S2 for a year and a half now and this is totally intuitive and natural.

 

When I hand someone an S2 for the first time and they are used to shooting with Canons, they instinctively move the camera from their right to their left and point the lens mount up, grabbing the lens with their right. This puts the camera out of shooting position. I find Leica's way much quicker and also more secure as you never need to let go of the camera.

 

Not sure if you watched the S2 videos that my colleague Josh posted in another thread, but we show this technique in the Physical Overview clip.

 

David

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So glad one of my favourite topics the mount release is brought up here :) I agree the right hand side for the mount release button is the perfect location ergonomically and Leica - as well as Pentax - have got this absolutely right. The left hand side has never ever made sense to me and neither have the explanations and tips on how to use those.

 

The grip is often the only place to securely hold a camera so letting go of that is risky to start with. Then twist the lens while sliding a finger knuckle over the release button? No thanks. Use your left thumb to press the release button while holding the lens? Silly. Neckstraps would help - if you like neckstraps.

 

However it would be interesting to know the original design decisions to place the button on one side or the other. Wonder if either manufacturer ever considered the other side but were stopped by patents…

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gents never ever buy the mark one of anything!!!!!!!

 

Where did that come from?

 

I was not complaining about it, just commenting that I will have to get used to it. The explanation provided is a good one and once I master the technique, I believe it would be faster.

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I've found AF to be excellent with the S2. One of the keys is just making certain to keep shutter speed close to 2x the focal length.The AF on the S2 is fast and accurate. Last weekend, I took a few shots at a rugby match that I ran across as I was out driving around looking for something to shoot. Here's an example:

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

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David mentions aligning the red dots, I find them slightly hard to see since they are below the lens barrel and to the left as you look over the top of the camera. I have found a better method.

 

The lens focal length is printed in nice big numbers on the barrel of the lens. When this is (almost) exactly on top, the lens slots into the mount and then twists. The serrated grip region also lends itself to this method as the two grip regions are on opposite sides when you have the numbers on top and fall naturally under your thumb and fingers as you twist the lens into its locked position. I figured this was a deliberate design choice and it certainly works for me, an otherwise Canon user.

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