gar1013 Posted November 26, 2010 Share #1 Posted November 26, 2010 Advertisement (gone after registration) What changes to the factory setup do you prefer? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted November 26, 2010 Posted November 26, 2010 Hi gar1013, Take a look here How do you have your X1 set up?. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
RockyIII Posted November 26, 2010 Share #2 Posted November 26, 2010 I changed Resolution to the lowest setting, as I only use the DNG image. I changed Compression to DNG + JPG fine. I turned Ext. Viewfinder on. I turned Auto Review off. I turned the Acoustic Signal off. I changed the date format to month/day/year. I think everything else is still set to the original factory settings. Rocky Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
phancj Posted November 26, 2010 Share #3 Posted November 26, 2010 Everything default except sharpening medium low. CJ Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChiILX1 Posted December 1, 2010 Share #4 Posted December 1, 2010 1.8mp JPG DNG + JPG fine Auto shutter slowest: 1/8 Auto Max ISO: 3200 Metering mode: Spot & Frame Continuous (depends on situation) but usually: low AF Assist: off MF assist: on Image Stabilization: off Preset Film: B&W High Contrast Sharpening: High Contrast: High Ext Viewfinder: On (Voigtländer Black) Flash Sync: Start Standard Brightness Record Histogram: on 3 second review 2 minute power down 1 minute LCD off All sounds: off except battery low Auto Rotate Display off Flash: forced RE or Slow Sync RE depending on situation- idea is that when flash comes up it automatically knows to fire. I like B&W for reviews because it allows me to pick out light contrasts I missed with my color seeing eyes, like shadows. I don't import the JPGs. 1.8 mp JPGs increased write speeds by 11.5% over full size. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DwF Posted December 1, 2010 Share #5 Posted December 1, 2010 New to the camera, but currently trying: I will spare you my settings like acoustic signal (it's off).. Resolution 1.8m Compression DNG and fine for when shooting Super Fine JPEG Film Standard Sharpening Med low Contrast Med low Saturation Med low Color space sRGB Firmware version..... 1.0 (no surprise there ) I have image stabilization on..... it works well. thoughts? I ran a test on the weekend shooting the X1 and my LX 5. Interestingly the DNG from my X1 processed in Adobe Raw and then through PS with no manipulation whatsoever other than to crop and size (both camera images similarly), the X1 image was not as impressive as what I got from the JPEG (super fine). I may go back and do this again because I am bewildered with this result. I have processed many M8 DNGs this way. The two cameras produced nice images; a kitchen counter still with background out of focus. Not surprisingly the DOF on the X1 was considerably shallower than the LX5 which I zoomed out to 35mm. i realize this may be better placed in a different thread. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
brill64 Posted December 2, 2010 Share #6 Posted December 2, 2010 dng+jpg - sharpening low manual focus just over 6' finger touching the shutter to keep it awake lcd off/viewfinder on auto iso shutter speed over 1/60th sec. or aperture at 2.8 wriststrap Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
grober Posted December 9, 2010 Share #7 Posted December 9, 2010 Advertisement (gone after registration) Usually AWB with the ISO set for the lowest speed I can tolerate. Tonight I'm using the X1 with a radio trigger and two remote studio strobes installed to take a choir's group picture from a private high school so I'll change the white balance to electronic flash. BTW: forget the written instruction in the X1's manual about the studio strobe position. Leica always assumes you are using the camera's tiny internal flash to optically trigger slave strobes. Leica refuses to acknowledge the existence of radio triggers! My X1 doesn't trigger anything when my radio trigger is installed and the synch is set to 'studio.' Leaving the camera's flash synch on 'auto' and manually setting the camera's exposure from readings from my flash meter does the trick. Leica should fix this error in the X1 manual. -g Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
grober Posted December 9, 2010 Share #8 Posted December 9, 2010 DwF: You said: "Interestingly the DNG from my X1 processed in Adobe Raw and then through PS with no manipulation ... " I ask: why are you pushing your DNG files through Adobe Raw (whatever that is) and not Adobe Lightroom that came with your X1? -g Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeTexas Posted December 9, 2010 Share #9 Posted December 9, 2010 Adobe RAW is the RAW converter/manipulator that comes with Photoshop. Lightroom is sort of a light, condensed version of Adobe RAW and Photoshop put together. DwF: You said: "Interestingly the DNG from my X1 processed in Adobe Raw and then through PS with no manipulation ... " I ask: why are you pushing your DNG files through Adobe Raw (whatever that is) and not Adobe Lightroom that came with your X1? -g Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DwF Posted December 9, 2010 Share #10 Posted December 9, 2010 DwF: You said: "Interestingly the DNG from my X1 processed in Adobe Raw and then through PS with no manipulation ... " I ask: why are you pushing your DNG files through Adobe Raw (whatever that is) and not Adobe Lightroom that came with your X1? -g Good question! I am running my old little MacBook and have a newer MacBook Pro that I will run light room on.....or at least try it out. I have been slow making the swith over but will likely do it in the next week or two. I recall when I got my M8, I tried Capture One but didn't find it user friendly or particularly good. Photoshop has worked well for me, but I am ready for an upgrade so maybe Lightroom will satisfy that for me. Any thoughts or suggestions welcome. David Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
grober Posted December 9, 2010 Share #11 Posted December 9, 2010 For some weird reason, my dull wee brain has had a much greater struggle learning Lightroom than I ever did with Photoshop. Floundering around I found some helpful videos on Youtube.com. You might look there too. -g Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
JeTexas Posted December 9, 2010 Share #12 Posted December 9, 2010 Good question!I am running my old little MacBook and have a newer MacBook Pro that I will run light room on.....or at least try it out. I have been slow making the swith over but will likely do it in the next week or two. I recall when I got my M8, I tried Capture One but didn't find it user friendly or particularly good. Photoshop has worked well for me, but I am ready for an upgrade so maybe Lightroom will satisfy that for me. Any thoughts or suggestions welcome. David In my opinion, Lightroom isn't an upgrade from Photoshop. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gjames9142 Posted December 9, 2010 Share #13 Posted December 9, 2010 In my opinion, Lightroom isn't an upgrade from Photoshop. Probably not, but it does come with the camera, and thus costs nothing. There are some good tutorials on Luminous Landscape. Having said that, I have to admit that the best I can claim is some gaps in my ignorance. Flickr: geoffreyjames82's Photostream Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
amyupnorth Posted February 16, 2011 Share #14 Posted February 16, 2011 Usually AWB with the ISO set for the lowest speed I can tolerate. Tonight I'm using the X1 with a radio trigger and two remote studio strobes installed to take a choir's group picture from a private high school so I'll change the white balance to electronic flash. BTW: forget the written instruction in the X1's manual about the studio strobe position. Leica always assumes you are using the camera's tiny internal flash to optically trigger slave strobes. Leica refuses to acknowledge the existence of radio triggers! My X1 doesn't trigger anything when my radio trigger is installed and the synch is set to 'studio.' Leaving the camera's flash synch on 'auto' and manually setting the camera's exposure from readings from my flash meter does the trick. Leica should fix this error in the X1 manual. -g Which trigger are you using with your X1, out of curiosity? I've used a Cactus V2 with my D-LUX 4 and wondered if I could do the same with the X1. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
h00ligan Posted February 16, 2011 Share #15 Posted February 16, 2011 In my opinion, Lightroom isn't an upgrade from Photoshop. They exist for different complimentary reasons. There are things that lightroom does much more easily than photoshops (non destructive adjustment layers being one). I knew photoshop a lot better than lightroom for many years and lightroom is still new to me comparatively.. but I already do 90% of the 'work' I need to there, and mostly use photoshop for any minor healing, a final levels tweak, sharpen, export. I wouldn't want to give up either, they work great together. Good question!I am running my old little MacBook and have a newer MacBook Pro that I will run light room on.....or at least try it out. I have been slow making the swith over but will likely do it in the next week or two. I recall when I got my M8, I tried Capture One but didn't find it user friendly or particularly good. Photoshop has worked well for me, but I am ready for an upgrade so maybe Lightroom will satisfy that for me. Any thoughts or suggestions welcome. David I tried capture one recently and found it to be just about the least friendly compared to Lightroom and Aperture (which I also don't particularly care for - heresy!) There are some really good lightroom tutuorials online - a simple googling gets you there.. however, you may also find Lightroom Tips | Adobe Photoshop Lightroom Killer Tips or Lightroom Tutorials helpful. there are several other sites that are good too Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
patrick parker Posted February 18, 2011 Share #16 Posted February 18, 2011 who cares. if you keep it in your pocket for long a lot of the settings will be different once you take it out. even if by chance they haven't the time one will spend on checking them won't be that far off from setting them again. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
phancj Posted February 19, 2011 Share #17 Posted February 19, 2011 Capture One is very good and with accurate colors. Silypix is supposedly excellent too. But these two software has horrendous UI IMO. Adobe hmmm it's the most convenient not sure if most competent. In the X1 I noticed some shades of red being lost in "translation" haha. But I'm an amateur so I am fine if it isnt the best, so long as it is the most fun. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RT_NEY Posted February 19, 2011 Share #18 Posted February 19, 2011 On my Nikon D700, I format the card everytime I insert it, so as to not have any errors, it's just a good practice. And I do a reset, so I won't start shooting in 6400...or someting I had set the previous night. And when my Black X1 arrives soon, I don't think I need a checklist to look at 2 dials on the top to see if they have moved. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
M.Furo Posted February 19, 2011 Share #19 Posted February 19, 2011 User mode 1: Centre Weighted; 1 Point H; Pwr off 10 min; Auto review: OFF; Ext. viewf. ON; Sounds OFF 2: Spot; Spot; Pwr off 2 min; Auto review 1 s; Ext.viewf. OFF; Sounds LOW 3: Face; Evaluative; Pwr off 2 min; Auto review 1 s; Ext.viewf OFF; Sounds LOW All: AF and MF assist ON; Auto ISO 1/30, 1600 Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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