6 bit coding

[parigby]

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I've spent the last hour searching through the forum to find an answer to my question, but without luck - even though l know l have seen it somewhere.

 

My question, simple one though it may be :

 

When 6 bit coding your lenses yourself, l understand that you only need to apply one colour - but which one is it, the black or the white ?

 

Thanks in advance.

 

philip

[stunsworth]

Black

[hoppyman]

Philip, why wouldn't you just apply both colours though?

More likely to improve reliability.

[Johnny_Johnson]

Philip, why wouldn't you just apply both colours though?

More likely to improve reliability.

 

If you don't mill the "white" slots then there is no problem with reliability. (In my limited experience.)

 

Later,

Johnny

[hoppyman]

If you are going to have the pits milled for only the black locations, you would need a custom process, surely? At least I haven't heard of anyone offering that kind of service and I doubt that would be cheaper anyway, plus you could obviously only apply some codes.

I don't doubt that the coding may work with only the black filled in, I just don't follow why you would do it that way if you are using proper indents and not just temporary markings. Much depends on just what lenses you have obviously.

I personally can't think of any lenses not worth spending $50 or so on to just do the job properly.

 

Whatever makes sense for the individual naturally.

[sfokevin]

Also if there are any screw heads in the 6 Bit code area they can read as a false black so they need to be painted over black or white depending on what the coding sequence requires.

[parigby]

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Thanks for everyones contributions. Whilst l have a willing and knowledgable audience - l am thinking of using modelling paint for the slots, therefore l assume matt would be better than gloss ?

 

philip

[hoppyman]

Yes,

Personally I use Humbrol Matt White and Black for models.

[bocaburger]

I coded my 35mm and shorter lenses. Did only the black recesses because I milled them free-hand and saw no reason to waste time with the white ones once I'd done the blacks and the camera recognized the lenses correctly. I used automobile touch-up paint because it's made to adhere to metal without a primer. Naturally, it's gloss black. Works perfectly.

[ho_co]

Keep in mind also that when the M9 first appeared, some people reported that some of their hand-coded lenses, which worked fine on the M8, were no longer read by the M9.

[hoppyman]

I I was talking about having the recesses properly milled into your mount (with a milling tool obviously).Hand cutting recesses is a different thing.I recommend having the job done preofessionally and using matt white and black paint for best reliabilty.

 

Glad to read that your hand cut solution works perfectly for you, of course. Entirely personal choice what you are happy to do/pay for, possible risk and outcomes.

Speaking entirely for my self, I was happy to pay $50 a lens to have it done perfectly. Trivial compared to the price of the best lenses naturally.

 

I coded my 35mm and shorter lenses. Did only the black recesses because I milled them free-hand and saw no reason to waste time with the white ones once I'd done the blacks and the camera recognized the lenses correctly. I used automobile touch-up paint because it's made to adhere to metal without a primer. Naturally, it's gloss black. Works perfectly.

[Bo_Lorentzen]

Yes, paint the dull black model paint, But paint require a recessed space. This is fine on lenses with a code grove but do not work on old Leica lenses without actually cutting a hole for the mark,

 

Sharpie coding worked very well on the M8 but less well on the M9, I have both bodies and know for a fact that lenses recognized on my 8 is not seen on the 9. Solution was getting real engraved marks, now the lenses works on both cameras.

 

I did code my 75 lux with dremmel coding, and found that I had to use dull white paint on the screw as it did mess up the reading without. ( the logic in trying this is that if I send this to Leica for coding they will put a different flange on the lens anyway as there are a screw hole in the code area.

[RobertW]

I've had the pits milled professionally. It looks good and works well but a bit costly.

I've used a dremmel myself and it definitely didn't look as nice, but works just as well.

 

I use Black or White Nail polish. Works perfectly. Comes out easily with nail polish remover.

 

As mentioned, if there is a screw in the coding area, you'll need to "paint" it the appropriate color either white or black.

 

With the newer CV & Zeiss lenses there's a recess in the bayonet so you can avoid milling and just paint directly in the recess for "permanent" results.

[bocaburger]

I I was talking about having the recesses properly milled into your mount (with a milling tool obviously).Hand cutting recesses is a different thing.I recommend having the job done preofessionally and using matt white and black paint for best reliabilty.

 

Glad to read that your hand cut solution works perfectly for you, of course. Entirely personal choice what you are happy to do/pay for, possible risk and outcomes.

Speaking entirely for my self, I was happy to pay $50 a lens to have it done perfectly. Trivial compared to the price of the best lenses naturally.

 

I agree. In my case the "hand cutting" I do on a daily basis involves significantly greater risk than coding a few lens flanges Besides, I use my Leica lenses (and am not the first, nor probably second or third person to use any of them ). Not intending to enter them in any beauty contests, so not worried if they lose a few points if my coding recesses lack a bit of the robotic symmetry of those professionally-milled. I'm happy to have the $600 I saved in toto, to put fwd into something that will actually benefit me taking pictures.

[glenerrolrd]

Thanks for everyones contributions. Whilst l have a willing and knowledgable audience - l am thinking of using modelling paint for the slots, therefore l assume matt would be better than gloss ?

 

philip

 

DAG uses Testors available at most art supply stores

[nikolas]

I had coded an elmarit 21mm with the 'd-coder', and the black pen was provided with and that was a quite nice temporary solution. But the pen doesn't paint anymore and the M8 denies to recognize the lens even I have used all the similar black pen I bought from the bookshop, and any nail polish I used. Why I cannot cod it again, has that something to do with camera? What am i doing wrong?

[Bo_Lorentzen]

Nikolas,

 

Not sure exactly the problem, but generally I find using a sharpie, the normal regular one does the trick. dash on a good thick mark, as thin code marks is sure to fail, make sure the sensor on your camera is clean also. it sounds like you have tried a few times so a lot of the color could have rubbed off on the sensor. part of the problem coding a leical lens is that there is no grove to put the paint so it will rub off eventually.

 

.

[nikolas]

thanks bo, seems that the nail polish does a really sharp. i ve been trying!!!!

[hoppyman]

By risk of course, I meant the possibility of unintentional damage to your lenses and /or unreliable operation of the coding. It sounds like you are familiar with using your Dremel tool, good for you. Many people are less skilled.

 

In any event just providing a suggestion for the Original Poster.

 

I agree. In my case the "hand cutting" I do on a daily basis involves significantly greater risk than coding a few lens flanges Besides, I use my Leica lenses (and am not the first, nor probably second or third person to use any of them ). Not intending to enter them in any beauty contests, so not worried if they lose a few points if my coding recesses lack a bit of the robotic symmetry of those professionally-milled. I'm happy to have the $600 I saved in toto, to put fwd into something that will actually benefit me taking pictures.

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Hallo,

Look here: Leica M

[bocaburger]

By risk of course, I meant the possibility of unintentional damage to your lenses and /or unreliable operation of the coding. It sounds like you are familiar with using your Dremel tool, good for you. Many people are less skilled.

 

I wish I had the skills with photography as some of you guys. Making great pictures with my lenses is by far a greater challenge for me than coding them was