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M9 red faces


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Experts,

 

I recently shot a wedding with my M9, Elmarit 28 Asph and Summilux 50 Asph and -indoors- used the SF58 off camera.

I found a pretty strong red / orange / magenta cast in my M9 raw files. The example shown below is not the worst I've observed. To lower the reds in Lightroom, I pointed to the red parts of the face and dragged the saturation down.

Do you experience similar issues?

How do you go about it?

What would be the best post processing approach?

 

Exif data for the photos below: Leica M9, Summilux 50 Asph., F4.8, 1/250, ISO 160, latest M9 firmware.

 

Cheers,

Peter

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A red bias on the M9 has been discussed in previous threads. You do have the option to produce your own profiles for Lightroom (or any Photoshop product) using the x-rite Color Checker (~ $80) and Adobe's free dngprofileeditor_b2 You can easily produce profiles for each lens and flash / no flash combination in 5 minutes. Your new profiles show up under the Camera Calibration panel in the Develop section. I greatly prefer to start with profiles from Profile Editor than with the Embedded profile. I used a 50mm Summilux Asp on a cloudy noon to shot the picture of the Color Checker. (When I downloaded LR Adobe Standard was the default profile; it is bad.)

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In LR's develop module under 'Develop/Set default settings...' I found the window below. What do I do? Agree to 'Update to Current Settings' or cancel or what...?

 

Thx, Peter

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Peter,

On my calibrated monitor your second shot is way too desaturated

I also find LR3 skin tones from DNG files too red/magenta but have not gotten around to make new profiles as I did for my M8.

However, portraits developed in Capture One 5Pro are excellent and I will probably use that program for shots in which skin tones are important.

maurice

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To lower the reds in Lightroom, I pointed to the red parts of the face and dragged the saturation down.

Do you experience similar issues?

How do you go about it?

What would be the best post processing approach?

 

Your original does not look too red on my monitor. However, when I encounter skin that is too red, I usually just do this in Lightroom:

  1. open the image in the Develop module
  2. go to HSL/Color/Luminance on the right panel
  3. on the Hue tab, slide the Red hue to about +25

This just moves the reds toward a yellow-orange and away from magenta. About +10 to +25 is usually enough to take out excess redness in skin. If you move the red hue slider too far to the right, you get skin that is too yellow and dull. You do not need to adjust the saturation at all.

 

Finally, if you like this approach, create a Lightoom preset that does nothing but move the red Hue slider to 25, and name it something like "Reduce red". You could also make it the default setting for all of your M9 files, but that might be a disadvantage when you want a very rich red.

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  • 4 weeks later...

The first photo looks fine to me at least on this uncalibrated crt monitor at work. I'll take a look again tonight at my monitor at home (it is calibrated). You probably already know this but I find that #1 your monitor should be calibrated first by something like a tool like Spyder 3 Express, I love mine! Also, Lightroom and everything else should be set to view, process, and save in the sRGB profile to insure accurate colors.

 

Honestly, I think it shows her cheeks are just a little rosy, which means she is alive and perhaps a little bit cold. I could be wrong, but it looks a lot more realistic than the 2nd version.

 

Good photo

 

Experts,

 

I recently shot a wedding with my M9, Elmarit 28 Asph and Summilux 50 Asph and -indoors- used the SF58 off camera.

I found a pretty strong red / orange / magenta cast in my M9 raw files. The example shown below is not the worst I've observed. To lower the reds in Lightroom, I pointed to the red parts of the face and dragged the saturation down.

Do you experience similar issues?

How do you go about it?

What would be the best post processing approach?

 

Exif data for the photos below: Leica M9, Summilux 50 Asph., F4.8, 1/250, ISO 160, latest M9 firmware.

 

Cheers,

Peter

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