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Sharp bands on negs


rondeb

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I can post a sample tomorrow, but here's the info up front to see if anyone can help out. I just got a see of negs back and upon scanning in see white bands across almost every frame. The bands are sharp, not foggy, and sometimes in multiple locations. What can this be from?

 

Thanks for the help!

 

Ron

 

MP, M8.2, M9

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I can post a sample tomorrow, but here's the info up front to see if anyone can help out. I just got a see of negs back and upon scanning in see white bands across almost every frame. The bands are sharp, not foggy, and sometimes in multiple locations. What can this be from?

 

Thanks for the help!

 

Ron

 

MP, M8.2, M9

 

 

...quick exploratory questions, Ron -

 

1) can you see any (black) bands if you examine the actual negatives?

2) are they parallel?

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Here's one example. Strange thing - it's on most, but not all negs from this roll. Never seen this prior. On some negs there are multiple stripes, some white, some red.

 

Hope someone can enlighten me!

 

Thanks,

Ron

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Similar, same? From the internal gap where dx coding strip comes up behind the up behind the rangefinder window to the electonics, shonky assembly. Also check this or his other threads. Different problem but sort of the same result, his burn at the bottom of the neg (inverted picture). Probably a rangefinder window light leak direct to the bottom part of the take up side. Dunno, pm hte guy.

Only thing throwing me a curve is the red line. Got a photo of that?

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Couple more examples.

 

As I stated before, I have not seen anything like this in prior rolls.

 

-Ron

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My suspicion is that when you were re-winding the film, the shutter was partway open forming a narrow slit. Then the start and stop processes of rewinding allowed enough light in to expose those lines. Is this an MP that does not have a rewind crank adapter?

 

I can't think of any other possibility unless the processing lab had a similar kind of light leak while loading or processing the film. (Which almost surely wouldn't be such a clear vertical line.) If the lines don't extend into the sprocket areas and therefore are only in the image area, then it happened in camera. The colors and variation in the lines have to do with what the camera was pointed at when you were rewinding.

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If your practice is to try to get as many exposures as possible from a roll, you can finish with a partially cocked shutter. Check to see if there is a leak at that point. Also check after the shutter has cycled.

 

Lastly rewind in a dark room, the lens at 16 and against your leg, or with a lens cap on.

 

Multiple small advance strokes might be leaving the shutter open a crack also. This would also be a defect requiring repair.

 

After this, take the lens off, put the shutter on B, and use a pen light in a semi dark room and check for leaks. Last resort is black tape the back door verticals.

 

Something might be happening while transporting or rewinding.

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If your practice is to try to get as many exposures as possible from a roll, you can finish with a partially cocked shutter. Check to see if there is a leak at that point. Also check after the shutter has cycled.

.

 

I did try to get an extra frame or 2 out of this roll. Not sure I understand what you mean "Check to see if there is a leak at that point." Should I see something different at different points?

 

Thanks!

 

Ron

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If the shutter was only partially wound, you should only have got a light leak if you didn't have your lens cap on. Can you tell us whether it was in place or not? If it was, then I would suspect some problem during the processing. (Do the lines extend further than the frame area?)

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Nicoleica - I most likely did NOT have the cap on during rewind, as I loaded another roll right after to continue shooting. The lines do not extend past the frame.

 

Xmas - NOT a scanner issue. These lines are on the negs themselves.

 

Thanks.

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I did try to get an extra frame or 2 out of this roll. Not sure I understand what you mean "Check to see if there is a leak at that point." Should I see something different at different points?

 

Thanks!

 

Ron

 

To be more clear...

 

By trying to get extra frames the shutter curtains are not moving to a resting position outside of the live film area. Instead you are leaving the shutter in tension between the lens and the film, This tension is also causing the shutter to be slightly open forming a slit that is fogging your film as you re-wind it.

 

There may be something wrong with your shutter that allows some tension to form this slit. And there is a possibility that this slit is there even when you cock the shutter while advancing film... although this motion may be too fast and smooth to leave the slit in any one place long enough to form the distinct lines.

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To be more clear...

 

By trying to get extra frames the shutter curtains are not moving to a resting position outside of the live film area. Instead you are leaving the shutter in tension between the lens and the film, This tension is also causing the shutter to be slightly open forming a slit that is fogging your film as you re-wind it.

 

There may be something wrong with your shutter that allows some tension to form this slit. And there is a possibility that this slit is there even when you cock the shutter while advancing film... although this motion may be too fast and smooth to leave the slit in any one place long enough to form the distinct lines.

 

So are you saying that this is a problem that needs repair or simply something that happens when trying to get extra frames? If there is something wrong with the shutter otherwise, wouldn't I see this in other rolls?

 

Ron

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So are you saying that this is a problem that needs repair or simply something that happens when trying to get extra frames? If there is something wrong with the shutter otherwise, wouldn't I see this in other rolls?

 

Ron

 

As was pointed out in another post if you remove the lens and hold the camera up to a bright light and open the back of the camera and wind the shutter part way, you should be able to see if any light gets through. Otherwise it might only happen when you try to wind against the pressure at the end of the roll. I can't say for sure, but it probably is not capping properly and needs repair.

 

If your camera has a roll of film in it, you can take the lens off and wind the shutter part way, leave it for a second or so and see if that makes a bright line on one frame. If so, the shutter is not capping and it needs repair.

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...this one's got me flummoxed.

 

As I understand it, Ron, this issue relates to one specific roll of film. Is there anything else we should know about this roll? Does it differ in any way from your usual rolls of film, or was there (as far as you can recall) any variation to your regular regime?

 

Before proceeding any further, I strongly recommend a simple inexpensive experiment to eliminate as many variables as possible. Carefully load and shoot a fresh undamaged roll of film, then use an alternative lab for processing the roll. My assumption here is that the relevant camera is the same MP you have been using all along.

 

Let us know how you get on.

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Before proceeding any further, I strongly recommend a simple inexpensive experiment to eliminate as many variables as possible. Carefully load and shoot a fresh undamaged roll of film, then use an alternative lab for processing the roll.

 

If the lines stop at the edge of the frame, it would be impossible for a lab to cause this. Just look carefully at the shutter as suggested.

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