Removing Lens Flange for Milich Milling...

[gdi]

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Does anyone have any tips related to removing the lens flanges for coding by J Milich. The lenses I plan to have done are CV 35mm Nokton and possibly the Hexanon 50mm F1.2. and Elmar-M 50mm F2.8.

 

I am mostly concerned about messing up something - I am not sure if it is just a simple task of removing some screws.

 

Thanks

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[tbarker13]

Some lenses can be trickier (the 35 pre-asph lux being one) than others. I've not tried to removed the flanges from the lenses you mention. But I have removed the flanges from a 40 summicron and a 50 planar with no problems. Just took out the screws and the flange popped right off. Putting them back on was just as easy.

[hoppyman]

Invest in some properly fitting screwdrivers and proceed with some sensitivity and care. You obviously want to avoid damaging the screws or at worst snapping one in the thread. Take some photos of the disassembly and perhaps record the original orientation if you are not confident.

[sfokevin]

I am not familiar with your specific lenses... But as you state - It is not as simple as unscrewing a few screws... Depending on the lens there can be spacer plates right under the flange - once you remove the screws these are FREE to move about - if you do not note there exact position they can get off kelter to where you don't know where they were... also DON'T turn the focus right once you remove the flange - it can get off kelter too... I would suggest you dedicate a space to remove the screws remove the flange then screw at least one of the screws back in and leave the lens sit there in the exact position until the flange is returned....

 

On the good side if you do screw it up - John M will set it right if you send it to him - I have done that!

[gdi]

Thanks for the tips. I am actually doing this for an M9, but I thought I would tap into greater experience of the M8 crew.

 

I think I will just have the CV 35mm done. I don't think there is much advantage to coding the 50's. Plus my Hex was adjusted by DAG for proper M focus and I do not want to screw it up!

[lewis44]

One the 35 f1.2, just unscrew the mount. When re assembling the holes are offset, so you will be able to match them easily.

Be aware that the screws on this lens are very weak, so don't over tighten when putting them back. I broke one and learned my lesson. Also the coding grooves will be over the area of one of the screw heads. It is on of the ones you would mark white, so you can leave it unpainted and it will work fine.

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[gdi]

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Thanks Lewis, who did the milling on that lens?

[lewis44]

Milich did it. I tried with a dremel tool and it worked OK but looked a little shabby, so I sent it to John and he did it properly.

Quick turnaround.

[gdi]

Milich did it. I tried with a dremel tool and it worked OK but looked a little shabby, so I sent it to John and he did it properly.

Quick turnaround.

 

Thanks - I thought it looked a bit crooked...

[john_newell]

I had a bunch of lenses done last year by John Milich. He is first-class in every way. I did all of my lenses, which was arguably not necessary for imaging results but gives me metadata that I probably would forget to record or would lose.

 

Use the J-series screwdrivers. They are a better fit than Philips drivers.

 

I put the various flanges into separate, marked ziplocks and John Milich returned them that way. That made it easier to make sure that each lens got the proper flange re-attached.

[papimuzo]

I can only but firmly confirm the quality and perfect work of John who milled flange for me and provided me several LTM adapters, including the special filter + flange adaptor for the CV 15/4. lens.

[jlm]

milich here...thanks for the props.

 

i have had a few examples of lenses, (CV 35/1.4) where the flange actually contains part of the helicoid focusing threads and therefore needs to be rotated after you remove the four screws, and basically unthreaded from the helicoid. once off, it is difficult to restore the correct orientation, as the helical threads have many start points, only one of which is correct.

be forewarned. most lenses are pretty simple as far as flange removal.

some of the zeiss lenses use a threadlocking compound which needs to be softened by applying a drop of acetone on the screw, maybe a bit more as you loosen it.

[4X5B&W]

John, just wondering are you able to mill Leica M39 to M bayonet adapter flanges, or are they too thin?

 

I keep one in case I come across a LTM lens that I want to try in my M8, it would be good if I could code the flange to whatever LTM lens I was using.

[jlm]

i haven't see a flange of any sort yet (leica, Zeiss, C/V, that was too thin

 

jm

[4X5B&W]

Good John, I will contact you about modifying my Leitz 50mm LTM adapter for coding.

[doubice]

Good John, I will contact you about modifying my Leitz 50mm LTM adapter for coding.

 

The only caveat about coding LTM to M adapters, is that only some of those are codeable. The ones that can be coded are completely round, with three tiny cut-outs around the perimeter of the adapter. The adapters that have a large cut-out along the bottom, cannot be coded.

 

This cut-out is there to enable the infinity stops of older Leica lenses to be pushed in, when moving the lens from its infinity setting. Unfortunately, this cut-out also prevents the adapter from being coded.

 

And - I will also add praise for John Millich - superb work.

 

Best,

 

Jan

 

Here is an example of the adapter that is not codeable:

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[4X5B&W]

Thanks Jan, that is exactly the same configuration as my Leitz M2/M3 50 adapter.

 

I guess it's a nogo then.......saved me some postage

[jlm]

that flange, and the limited availablility of the Leica flanges that are machinable for coding is why i produced my own adapter from scratch

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Hallo,

Look here: Leica M

[jaapv]

milich here...thanks for the props.

 

i have had a few examples of lenses, (CV 35/1.4) where the flange actually contains part of the helicoid focusing threads and therefore needs to be rotated after you remove the four screws, and basically unthreaded from the helicoid. once off, it is difficult to restore the correct orientation, as the helical threads have many start points, only one of which is correct.

be forewarned. most lenses are pretty simple as far as flange removal.

some of the zeiss lenses use a threadlocking compound which needs to be softened by applying a drop of acetone on the screw, maybe a bit more as you loosen it.

Those Zeiss lenses also benefit from the trick of first applying some force with the screwdriver in the tightening direction before unscrewing. Zeiss advises tempering the whole lens to about 50 degrees centigrade:eek:. A light touch to the screw by a soldering iron also works.