R8 purchase advice

[italy74]

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Good evening everyone, I'm new to the forum.

 

Although I'd love to get an R9, I found an R8 offer I couldn't pass on without giving at least a try. First, let me give you a bit of background, since I started as an amateur a few years ago and now I decided not to switch to the profession despite I even studied PJ and fashion at a local photographic academy in Milan.

 

Actually I have a whole series of excellent cameras and I realize my passion is trespassing the thin border of collecting - although I regularly use all my cameras in different fields. I have a D700 a F6 and a FM3A, all Nikons, then.

 

In the meantime, I'd like to get also a RF although in this field I have to be honest and admit my preference goes to Zeiss Ikon, but it's not our topic here and this means also setting my mind for a different way of shooting.

 

I have a photographer here and I saw him/her shooting more times with an R. Getting closer I saw it was an R8 and of course I knew it by fame, both camera and lenses. To go around, I often have with me the FM3A which is extremely light and portable and featured as well, with all manual lenses, but sometimes during ceremonies or in dim light I find its viewfinder not as bright as I'd love to and I have to guess when focusing, plus sometimes I can't really see the time lever on the left.

 

Shortly, today I went to that photographer and I asked him to handle the R8 for a while. Well, what a heck of a camera, with a 35 F/1.4 mounted ! Really a metal brick ! I then realized it was the lens which was heavier than expected. However, to make it short, I looked through it and wow ! The viewfinder looked huge and comparable to the F6 with the magnifying eyepiece mounted (very good solution yet limited side view, to me wearing glasses). Also the shutter CLOCK was kind of pleasant, as if something solid was going on inside. Now - I now the R9 is lighter and apparently better balanced and has probably better flash features but I stumbled on a sample looking good and costing 490€ plus shipping, so here I am. Of course i'm aware this means building a whole new lens system (which is a pain for my walet, even with used lenses)

- what should I check for and ask to the seller ?

- which are known issues I should be aware of with the R8 ?

- is selective metering effective ? Although not spot, I find this another weak point of the FM3A that I miss on the field.

- keep in mind I use A-mode 95% of the time and M mode the resting 5%. I didn't see any "A" indicator on the right dial for times, how am I going to select aperture? Via stop-down, thus limiting the brightness of viewfinder or I missed something and you can do from some other point?

- in general, which advices would you give me about it considering I'll use it mostly for low-light unobtrusive shooting during masses and in general for portraiture / ceremonies ?

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Dino.

 

italy74's Photos <-- sorry I don't have a specific signature yet

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[Doc Henry]

Welcome to the LUF,Dino

 

The R8 has a bright and clear viewfinder.

Verify that the viewfinder is clean, that the sensor works, the room is sealed.It depends on the age of the camera and its frequent use or not.

I have an R8 and I am very happy but I bought new.The camera is well in my hand.

The best, ask your friend to lend you the camera and make one roll of film with it.

Oh one last thing, the R8's warranty is 5 years while the R9 is 2 years.

Other LUF friends here might tell you other advice that I forgot

 

Good photos

[kdemas]

Dino,

 

You want to look at the film guides to make sure they are smooth. If they look a little rough they'll scratch the film.

 

This was a common issue with some R8s. If you search on Google or here on the forum you'll probably find info on the topic.

 

Enjoy your new camera!!!

 

Kent

[kdemas]

Search for the following on Google to see some talk about the film scratching issue:

 

leica r8 scratching film

[wildlightphoto]

 

- keep in mind I use A-mode 95% of the time and M mode the resting 5%. I didn't see any "A" indicator on the right dial for times, how am I going to select aperture?

 

"A" mode is on the dial on the left side of the camera. The aperture stays open when using this mode so the viewfinder is at maximum brightness.

[italy74]

Hi guys

and thanks for the prompt answers.

For what I know - I saw the s/n, the camera should be used and made in 1998.

I'm not going to shoot a lot of rolls with it, just at events and probably 90% BW400CN ( while I prefer Tri-X and Ilford 200 SFX for general purpose, I like more this one for kids and women, since it should give a less dramatic effect to people )

Btw as soon as I'll be able to, if I get it, I think to pair it with a 90 F/2 APO first.

Later I think to get a 180 F/3.4 APO and a 35/50 F/2 or the 35/70 F/4 depending on the opportunity. Primes would give me the possibility to work in dim light and Leica for sure shines here but to be honest I think I'd shoot most during the day or outside so I might prefer the versatility of a high quality standard zoom here. I have to think. As I told you, nr. 1 lens is 90, all the rest will come later.

[italy74]

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Ciao Doug

I saw the "A" mode but what I couldn't get - in the meantime I got also an instruction manual - was the fact that in all my other cameras there's also an "A" on the shooting times dial while here the manual tells just to set whatever time (the camera will override it anyway once set in A) except X and B.

What is not clear yet to me is if R lenses or ROM lenses, whose aperture is set through the aperture dial on the lens itself , will affect the actual view through the viewfinder (i.e. if I set F/8 on a lens, the viewfinder will darken or only the microchip will take it into account and the viewfinder will remain set at its widest aperture, thus bright?)

[italy74]

Ciao Doc

which sensors exactly ? I won't have the possibility to test the camera before purchasing it. Actually it's in Italy but 250 km far from what I am. I know the shop and I trust it but whatever test it's not really possible and I have to trust what is told me.

[wildlightphoto]

What is not clear yet to me is if R lenses or ROM lenses, whose aperture is set through the aperture dial on the lens itself , will affect the actual view through the viewfinder (i.e. if I set F/8 on a lens, the viewfinder will darken or only the microchip will take it into account and the viewfinder will remain set at its widest aperture, thus bright?)

 

As long as the lens is either R-cam (also called 3rd-cam), 3-cam or ROM the viewfinder will stay bright and metering will be accurate. When using very old 1-cam or 2-cam lenses the viewfinder will stay bright but the metering will not be accurate.

 

There are also a few lenses with a manual aperture and when using these lenses the viewfinder will darken when you use a smaller aperture. These lenses include the 400mm and 560mm f/6.8 Telyt, 500mm f/8 reflex, and the 28mm PC and 35mm PA perspective-control lenses.

[italy74]

Thanks, Doug

for what you say, it won't be an issue for me, since I should be getting 3-cams or ROM lenses only.

[storybrown]

post some pics when you have some - and a view of the new R8, too . . .

[Doc Henry]

Ciao Doc

which sensors exactly ? I won't have the possibility to test the camera before purchasing it. Actually it's in Italy but 250 km far from what I am. I know the shop and I trust it but whatever test it's not really possible and I have to trust what is told me.

 

Dino, you will find all the information on this link:

 

Leica R8 - photo.net

 

The sensor, which is on the path of the image allows for a well exposed photo.

Pay attention to price, the R8 has declined significantly

Regards

Henry

[italy74]

Thanks again, Henry.

[NZDavid]

Ciao Dino, very nice pictures of people and landscapes!

 

Just wondered what's wrong with the F6 and how does it compare with the R8?

 

I think you would enjoy the bright finder on a Leica M for indoors in low light, again, not sure how it compares with the R so maybe later.

 

Buona giornata con Leica!

 

David

[andybarton]

Make sure that the meter is guaranteed as working in all modes. They are very expensive (actually, uneconomical) to repair on an R8.

[italy74]

Ciao David,

nothing wrong with F6, just trespassing the thin border toward collecting

actually I could only compare the two viewfinders (my F6 has a magnifying eyepiece, though) which are more or less the same (f6 has a little advantage, but the R8 I can see everything at a glance) and the combo R8+35 was for sure sturdier and heavier than F6 + 28-75

I'll reply you asap, I'm working now

[Sandokan]

In A Mode - you set the aperture on the lens.

 

In "S" Mode you set the shutter on the dial and the lens aperture is set to the largest number (16 or 22 or 32) otherwise it flashes a warning at you in the viewfinder.

 

In "M" mode you set both.

 

What I like most about the R9 (and 8) is the simplicity and logic of the camera - the F4, FA, FE2, EOS3 and EOS5 all require continous re-reading of the manual to remind me of the different functions; the R9 I can just pick up after a few months and use.

 

I am waiting for the Brightfinder magnifier and can tell you what it is like after I receive it. I have a Chinese one but it is too large for easy use and needs to be lifted up to see all the frame.

[wildlightphoto]

I ... In "S" Mode you set the shutter on the dial...

 

I think what you intended to write is "T" mode.

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[menos I M6]

Dino, I know, this is not helping in your matter, but here goes:

 

As you might know, I too have a Nikon FM3a - actually, this camera brought me back to film more than one year ago.

I loved the FM3a to death, but hated its tiny, small, dim finder, which is practically unusable in low light, compared to the wonderful D3 finder or anything Leica RF.

 

Shortly after I dipped my toes into the water with the FM3a, I got a Leica M6 by chance.

Since I started to use the M6, later the M7, the EPSON R-D1 and then the M8.2, I never ever shot a roll through the FM3a.

 

Would it not be the only film body, compatible to Nikon F, I would have sold it already.

 

I had a very close eye on the Leica R, almost bought a R8 new a few weeks ago and played with the idea of Leitax'ed R glass on the D3 for a while.

 

Instead, I went the light (better?) way and got the lenses for Leica M, I wished for.

 

If you didn't try the M, do it, before getting an R. You might be really surprised, how good and easy everything works!

 

Nothing, RF pessimists say about these cameras really is substantial.

Lately, I even shoot motorsports with the M with wide open glass - the M is just wonderful kit, when you come from these heavy, big bricks (F6, D700, R8 included of course).

 

Think about the M6 as a more compact FM3a with a lot smoother gears, much better low light use and better (more expensive :-( ) glass. Even nice M7 bodies go for not much money anymore.

[italy74]

Ciao

I have already thought of a RF camera (whatever it is, Zeiss Ikon new or M6 used) BUT system switch aside (which is a "pain in the..." as English say) it's really the way of shooting that I'm not ready with yet. Although I admit RF superiority in some fields, I'm not yet so skilled to think of a picture through a RF. I got the FM3A for the simplicity of its controls, in this RF are very similar, and for a lesser weight, but since my way to shoot people implies a certain distance from them, I'm always using short teles and here the SLR viewfinder is "bigger" (although not so bright) than the RF. I realize that most of my shots are in the 50-105 range and just some using the 28. Actually I have really great WA and long tele lenses that I don't use anymore, I realized that over a 200mm is useless to my way of shooting. Now, compare a 75 / 80 / 90 Leica (M / R what you like) with a new or an old Nikkor. Of course on a sheer iq, Leica wins hand down, but costing many times more. Probably, and despite what I said before, I might start with the R8 AND a 50 summicron-R I found at a good price and go tele (really the 90 apo would be a dream) as soon as I could afford it. With the R I'm looking at, I have also to care for the heavier combo to handle and a difference response to low-light shots. With the FM3A I might question the accuracy of focusing but the camera is very light and easy to handle, with the R8, although steadier, the higher focusing accuracy might be compromised by the higher concentration needed to support camera and lens. However, I know this is just "theory", thus I'd like to know from you more. Thanks again though.