28 mm problem.

[thrid]

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>Normally I use the round hood (12585H), but at one point I replaced it with the tiny rectangular plastic type >(I forgot the model number).

 

I just happened to come across that hood. It's the 12525. Too bad, it's a nice little hood. Very compact and it even has a cap. I cut a vent in mine, so it didn't obscure the framelines. Worked really well, except for the unscrewing feature...

[tobey bilek]

In the future, tighten the lens by holding the rear, not the front.

 

Even if you were to tighten the screws sucessfully, there is no guarantee the required optical allignment will be preserved. I submit this is not a five minute job.

 

Leica really needs to get back to robust construction and forget the glue and set screw technology. For the top tier company with pricing to match, it is inexcusable. The glue and set screw is from the Soligar and Vivitar era in 1960`s.

 

If we wanted second tier lenses with marginal construction, there is a way cheaper alturnative and even a way way cheaper one.

[250swb]

 

If we wanted second tier lenses with marginal construction, there is a way cheaper alturnative and even a way way cheaper one.

 

Even if the end of the lens wasn't held on with set screws would it still be a good idea to mount and dismount by holding the lens hood? I'd tend to agree with you if all 28mm Summicron's were falling apart in the users hand, but as things stand I can't because they aren't.

 

Steve

[gwelland]

I'd tend to agree with you if all 28mm Summicron's were falling apart in the users hand, but as things stand I can't because they aren't.

 

Steve

 

Leica definitely have a design fault with this lens and also with the hood. It's too simplistic to blame it on operator error when there are a number of reports on this forum of folks having the same loose front element problem, plus also the hood itself pulling apart from the mount as well.

 

I can't recall hearing of a similar problem with any other lens so that tends to suggest that it's a lens design issue - if the design were better then people wouldn't be able to cause the front element to loosen. It doesn't happen with the 35 'lux with it's superior hood assembly. Similarly it doesn't appear to happen with other similar hoods such as the 24 Elmarit or 21/24 Summilux's either.

[cliffp]

I had a problem with a loose front ring on my 28mm 'cron. I sent the lens back to Solms with my M9 as it was already going back for RF adjustment (I had a 2cm error at 1m with a 90mm 'cron). I thought I might as well get this lens' focussing adjustment checked out (this was also the advice of Leica UK at the time).

 

Solms advised me to have the lens serviced by them at a huge cost (can't remember exactly how much but over £200). I didn't bother as I thought at the time that the loose ring had no impact on the lens' optical performance (there was no perceivable movement of any glass elements and the images looked perfect). Actually, Solms tightened up the loose ring for nothing.

 

I mention this story as it supports Tobey's argument that it is not a diy job to tighten the ring oneself - Solms was probably aware that the optics may have become misaligned when it advised a service.

 

The annoying thing is that I had only just bought the lens secondhand from Ebay and though obviously not much more than a year or so old (from the serial number) it didn't have any paperwork so I couldn't get it investigated as part of it's warranty - a hard lesson!

[gwelland]

I mention this story as it supports Tobey's argument that it is not a diy job to tighten the ring oneself - Solms was probably aware that the optics may have become misaligned when it advised a service.

 

That was my experience also. I had a local specialist tighten up my lens front element but ultimately became aware of a loss of sharpness/acuity with the lens. I didn't notice the sharpness drop off for a long time and it was only when I compared it with another lens that I was able to see the difference. I sent it back to Leica for adjustment under warranty and it came back much sharper. I read the reports of plenty of folks doing it themselves but I don't see how you could accurately keep the element centered by adjusting the screws alone without some alignment reference.

[250swb]

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It's too simplistic to blame it on operator error when there are a number of reports on this forum of folks having the same loose front element problem,

 

 

 

You know very well that the people with a problem complain on camera forums. So how many aren't complaining? It's always worth putting these things into perspective.

 

Steve

[gwelland]

Steve,

 

That works both ways. If it were just operator error then you'd expect to hear about the same issues with some of the other lenses - but you don't.

[Ed_K]

Any one know if the 2.8 Elmarit version share the same potential problem?

[Xmas]

Hi

 

Stoppit

 

The inner ring is for mounting the lens with, the little rubber hood is for dropping the camera on. the Uv filter is for the sea gull poo, and I'm not teasing.

 

Many of the ebay lenses will have been owned by ginger people who drag the backs of their hands on the floor when they walk.

 

Noel

P.S. I got a CV lens with the same problem but it still works ok... previous owner ginger

[eritho]

Any one know if the 2.8 Elmarit version share the same potential problem?

 

It sure shares the same problem.

 

I just received mine back from Leica, Solms after repairing.

Cost: EUR 900

 

But now it's back like new

[Xmas]

Hi Erik

 

Did you buy it new? The lens mounting ring is so small that many people will have difficulty getting to it, i.e. using it.

 

Noel

[eritho]

Hi Erik

 

Did you buy it new? The lens mounting ring is so small that many people will have difficulty getting to it, i.e. using it.

 

Noel

 

No, I bought it used many years ago together with a new M6TTL, a new 50mm Cron. and a used 90mm Cron.

It had a locker front element already, when I bought it and I have seen no defects in the pictures taken with it, but in the end I decided to have it repaired.

I love this lens and will not replace it.

You are right, it's difficult to mount the lens with the hood on without using the hood to turn it.

But one must be carefull

[Xmas]

Hi Erik

 

That is not so bad, not self inflicted, but Eu900 is still well expensive.

The inner ring is so small and my lens is so tight (on old M2s) that I have difficulty getting the bayonet lock to latch, not going to try the next ring out now...

 

Noel

[Ed_K]

Thanks for sharing the insight, Erik, as i have yet to add this lens to my wish list.

[eritho]

Thanks for sharing the insight, Erik, as i have yet to add this lens to my wish list.

 

Don't hesitate, it's a marvellous lens!

Could not be without it.

[hoppyman]

Wil I certainly agree that you should get your lens into your service agent just to be sure. It's quite likely that the screws are intended to align with small detents and they may be quickly tightenable yourself, however for a lens under guarantee why not let the experts sort it out for you and check that there is no other issue.

 

As an additional consideration, the original Leica rectangular hood is very expensive to replace and you risk damaging that as well as your lens (breaks at the thinnest point of the plastic and comes loose in its mount then). Well worth training yourself to not use that hood as a mounting aid. Neither hood nor lens are designed nor intended to withstand that of course.

I hope that you get it sorted out quickly and to your satisfaction after your holiday. Further to that, these lenses perform superbly on the M9. Take a careful look at your shots in comparison to those from a film M for example. You will see the firmware very effectively correcting out the natural vignetting of the design.

Take a look here if interested. The first is with M7 and you can clearly see the characteristic fall off

Bruny Island, Tasmania photo - Geoff Hopkinson photos at pbase.com

Different shot content but maybe you can see the even illumination into the corners.

Chain photo - Geoff Hopkinson photos at pbase.com

Anyway in my opinion a superb match for the M9. Add the APO 75 and SUMMILUX 50 ASPH. and you have Nirvana

[Xmas]

As an additional consideration, the original Leica rectangular hood is very expensive to replace and you risk damaging that as well as your lens (breaks at the thinnest point of the plastic and comes loose in its mount then).

Thanks very useful I hope the later rubber hoods are less prone, as they are expensive to replace.

You will see the firmware very effectively correcting out the natural vignetting of the design.)

The lens is small and performs well in to the corners, partly because there is some physical vignetting, in addition to the natural laws of physics for illumination off axis, you can see this is the MTF curves.

Amazingly good on a M8.

Noel

[marknorton]

It stands to reason that to dismount the lens, you need to apply torque to the bayonet mount or a part rigidly attached to it. That says you grip the back of the lens not the hood.

 

If you remove the lens by the hood, you risk loosening the accessory carrier ring which is typically attached using three grub screws which press into the lens barrel around the front edge.

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Hallo,

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[hoppyman]

Noel yes excellent on the M8 as well certainly. I'm not sure what you mean regarding rubber hoods.At least I don't know of any other version of the rectangular clip on as provided initially. Not that its important. I do like the externally threaded metal ones now appearing on the newer designs by the way.