6 Bit Coding

[richfx]

Advertisement (gone after registration)

I have a 90mm Tele Elmarit M (uncoded) and have set up a profile for it on my M9. I occasionally forget to enter the manual profile for it in the menu when changing lenses, and have looked into coding it. Tim Isaac of Match Technical advised that his 6 bit coding kit will not work with this lens because there is a screw on the bayonnet mount where the coding is applied. Plan B would be sending it to Leica NJ or Solms. Two questions - does NJ handle 6 bit coding and if so, is there any issue about the lens' value / collectibility (I know this is not an expensive lens, but it is in pristine condition) after being coded / modified (I know it's a plus overall in terms of function, but wonder about the OEM factor).

Thanks,

Rich

[adan]

The lens you mention was one of the first I sent in for coding (at Leica NJ) when I first got an M8 three+ years ago. So answer 1 is yes.

 

Collectibility? At the moment, coded lenses are generally selling for MORE than uncoded.

 

Realistically, the 90 TEM does not require coding except for EXIF data - it is such a long focal length that the vignetting/color-drift corrections Leica applies in-camera for coded wide-angles are not a factor. It has chromatic aberrrations, though, so I suppose that now that Adobe programs can automatically apply lens corrections of that type based on EXIF, it is a little more useful than previously.

 

Finally - the same screw that fouls up Tim Isaacs makes the 90 TEM the easiest lens to code manually yourself (in fact, some people have been surprised to find that the M8/9 can read totally "uncoded" 90 TEMs correctly (and will also occasionally read other 90s or 28s as a "90 Tele-Elmarit-M")

 

The reason being that the screw happens to fall exactly where the single black coding dot (000100) for a 90 TEM would be, so if it is darkened by age, grime, or a carefull application of a Sharpie permanent marker - it looks just like the 90TEM coding spot. And the slight recessing of the screw head protects the darkening from wearing off with lens changes.

 

Code it up manually, and then just wash it off if you want to sell it as collectibly original.

 

(I wish I'd known that when I sent mine in for official coding - I could have used my free coding voucher for a more troublesome lens )

[richfx]

Many thanks, Andy. The expertise on this forum is just amazing. Greatly appreciate your help and will try the Sharpie / screw approach.

Rich

[richfx]

Andy:

I tried your Sharpie suggestion - see attached photo. It didn't work with my M9.

Any suggestions?

Rich

[jaapv]

Yes- if you want it coded, have it coded by either Leica or one of the services that have sprung up. I understand that in the USA John Milich provides such a service (except for the paint that you have to DIY for patent reasons), but there are certainly more around.

[ho_co]

DAG can do it as well. Don just coded a lens of mine that isn't on Leica's codable list.

[adan]

Advertisement (gone after registration)

Yes - try a little typewriter white-out (or white paint or whatever) on the (pause while he digs out his 90 TEM and snaps a picture) - LEFT side of the screw as seen in your shot (and mine). Start with just a little on the extreme left edge and keep adding more width to the white-out area towards the center until the camera recognizes the lens.

 

If you get to half-way across the screw with white and still no luck, stop, and try adding a little more Sharpie (black) on the right side just outside the screw head.

 

I guess there is some variability in exactly where the screw ends up relative to the camera's coding sensors (the mounts of these 20-35-year-old lenses may have some play), or where the grime in "self-coding" 90 TEMs is darkest.

 

With a couple of other older lenses (28 Elmarit and 35 'cron from the same era as the TEM) I had to do some coding and wiping off by trial and error to sneak up on a pattern the camera would recognize.

 

At some point, of course, feel free to say "the heck with it" and go for more professional and solid coding from the sources mentioned.

 

[richfx]

Thanks, Andy. I'll try this today and report back on it.

Rich

[burkey]

I tried using a sharpie and template but it simply didn't work for me. Probably because I was too sloppy, who knows. I've had John Milich mill both flanges and adapters for me and he does an incredible job. I coded the milled flanges/adapters using cheap Walmart brand black and white nail polish using small sable brushes I got from a local bargain store. 'Works incredible well. I'd recommend contacting John. He'll get back to you with pricing. Payment is easy using PayPal. Good luck.

. . . Burkey

[richfx]

Success - third time the charm, it seems.

As recommended, I used black and white nail polish and a very thin arts and crafts brush to do the job. Lucky that the guesstimated split between colors on the screw worked first try.

Attached is photo.

Thanks Andy and Burkey for your expertise and help.

Rich