What's the giant paramecium?

[smgorsch]

Advertisement (gone after registration)

Just picked up a role of Tri-x which I had developed and scanned to 30Mb TIFFs. Many of shots have this odd paramecium like thing (oval outline to left of girl's hair) in various sectors. Any idea what this is (highly cropped example)

 

thanks

stefan

Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here…

Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members!

[dave_d]

Dried water spots on the film.

[E.M]

When you rince the film , at the end put a small drop of detergent from the kitchen in the water and you 're done . That way you avoid having lime-spots on you negs .

 

Etienne Michiels

[cocker]

Better still add proper wetting agent - Photoflo, Mirasol, Ilfosol or equivalent.

[stunsworth]

Wetting agent is the better choice - detergents may well have colouring and perfume in them.

 

3-4 drops per film.

[tobey bilek]

Mix wetting agent to specifications, then back off until you see a problem.

 

Didtilled water final rinse with wetting agent is best. I normally use Photo Flow 1:200 per directions and have never found a downside. The stuff is cheap, real cheap. Using too little can get you in trouble. 1:200 is safe always. 1 ml per fill. Does it really matter if you spend 1 penny or 10 on a roll?

 

And stay away from sponges, squeeges, wet fingers, cloths etc. Photoflow, drip sideways 3 minutes, tap water off, remove film from reel and hang. Room needs an air cleaner.

[smgorsch]

Advertisement (gone after registration)

Thanks for the suggestions but this is from a professional lab -- I'm fed up with them

 

stefan

[stunsworth]

Thanks for the suggestions but this is from a professional lab -- I'm fed up with them

 

The solution is in your hands - literally. Once the small amount of equipment needed for you to develop b&w films yourself has been bought - no need for a darkroom - the costs per film are very, very low.

[smgorsch]

The solution is in your hands - literally. Once the small amount of equipment needed for you to develop b&w films yourself has been bought - no need for a darkroom - the costs per film are very, very low.

 

Okay, I've been toying with doing this for quite some time. I'm sure there are many resources out there -- I need to know how to get started; what's the best place to look for DIY developing information (for a complete novice) ?

 

thanks

stefan

[earleygallery]

Developing tank, changing bag, thermometer, developer, stop bath, fixer and wetting agent and you're set! There's a good beginners guide on the Ilford website.

[smgorsch]

2 more followup questions --

 

I live in a medium size house but don't have a single lightproof room (even the closets have windows) am I SOL or can I use some sort of bag I recall reading about? Also, how nasty are the chemicals which I suppose would end up in my septic system (and ultimately the ground water)?

 

thanks again

stefan

[rubenkok]

Hi Stefan,

Have a look here:Film Changing Bags

kind regards,

Ruben

[stunsworth]

Okay, I've been toying with doing this for quite some time. I'm sure there are many resources out there -- I need to know how to get started; what's the best place to look for DIY developing information (for a complete novice) ?

 

I've attached a copy of the Ilford guide to processing your first film. Obviously it's geared towards Ilford chemistry, but alternatives are available.

 

My advice would be to disregard the section about using a squeegee as a drying aid.

 

 

200629163442455.pdf

[stunsworth]

Also, how nasty are the chemicals which I suppose would end up in my septic system (and ultimately the ground water)?

 

The nastiest is the fixer as that will have silver ions in it.

[john_s]

The nastiest is the fixer as that will have silver ions in it.

 

For the few films that you would be doing at home, the ecological impact will be miniscule. The silver ions will combine with sulphur in the sewerage (no shortage of sulphur-containing compounds there!) and silver sulphide is not going to react with anything much.

 

For commercial quantities, it's a different situation.

[adan]

As to the paramecium - drying spots can often be removed or reduced with a new water wash followed by wetting agent rinse and careful re-drying. Essentially it is similar to a bathtub ring - dirt/dust/grime in the rinse water collects at the edges of a drop through surface tension and is left behind on the film as the drop evaporates. Wetting agent breaks the surface tension so that the water evaporates as a sheet rather than as droplets, so the "stuff" floats off rather than collecting in the outline of a drop.

 

Developers vary in chemical components - hydroquinone and metol being the most common, but anything from pyrogallol to ascorbic acid (Vitamin C) or sodium ascorbate may be present. Sodium sulfite is fairly common, too, and some kind of base (alkali) to provide the right pH. A Google search will turn up contents lists for most developers.

 

Stop bath is most commonly very dilute acetic acid (vinegar minus the fruity flavoring elements) - sometimes with a pH-sensitive dye to indicate exhaustion.

 

Fix is most commonly Sodium Thiosulfate with minor amounts of other things including (usually) a mild acid - often acetic, also. As mentioned, once used it contains dissolved silver compounds - which aren't as poisonous as lead or mercury, but aren't exactly safe: Silver - Ag - Chemical properties, Health and environmental effects

 

Note that the alkali in many developers and the mild acid in stops and fixes will tend to neutralize one another rather nicely (it is, after all, how stop bath stops the developing process). Just mix used fix/stop with used developer before disposal. It's the other bits that can cause environmental concerns or "kill" a septic tank.

[smgorsch]

Thanks all, I may well end up going this route.

 

stefan

[Xmas]

If you are worried about the septic tank and lower life forms then you can use the fixer until nearly exhausted and hold in plastic tank for a recycling centre, - they are likely to tip it into storm drain...

 

The other compounds are lower risk but some need rubber gloves as they can sponsor allergies. If you are fussy you can make up developer with drain cleaner (lye?) and pain killer (paracetamol analogue).

 

You can get archive permanence without too much use of water, but if yours is hard water you will need a final rinse in deionized water, or you may get drying marks. Do you descale kettles?

 

Noel

[stunsworth]

..but if yours is hard water you will need a final rinse in deionized water, or you may get drying marks. Do you descale kettles?

 

Noel, I always used de-ionised water for the final rinse - and I would recommend that for everyone - regardless of the type of water in the area I was living. Where I am now is great water, soft with no build up of calcium compounds what so ever, but I still got drying marks when I used tap water in the final rinse.

[Advertisement]

Hallo,

Look here: Interesting Leica gear

[Xmas]

Hi Steve

 

That was aimed at the OP who has a septic tank and is not Steve from UK.

 

Your scheme is dependent on your water quality, if the OP does not need deionized he can do without it. If he gets drying marks he needs deionized.

 

For 40 years I used deionized, then I tried a friends squeegee, so I don't bother using deionized any more, no sign of scratches, and it dries faster as well. The water is variable in quality.

 

Michael Markey who lives 'up the road from you' is ok with just dish washing up liquid, in final rinse...

 

I'd suggest a suck it and see approach for OP, don't do it on unrepeatable shots.

 

Noel