M6 "Classic" Meter

[mike.ong]

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Hi Guys,

 

I would love to start with a short introduction. My name is Mike and I've been shooting film for a few years now. Usually with Rfs, also shoot MF occasionally.

 

I'm looking to get an M6 Classic body. My question is, is the meter of the M6 Classic TTL? I've read under the thread M6 Classic VS M6 TTL that it is. And if it's non-ttl, how does it work?

 

I just want to make sure since I don't use a meter at all for daylight shooting. I use the girlfriend's DSLR for metering when shooting at night. I've used a Cosina SLR before and I guess the metering is TTL since the exposure LEDs change every time I change the aperture. To be honest, I have no idea how does a non-ttl meter works. Of course the one that is built in to the camera.

 

Thanks in advance,

 

Mike

[Guest Joachim_I]

Welcome to the forum. The classic M6 has a TTL meter.

[aesop]

Welcome to the forum. The classic M6 has a TTL meter.

 

...Mike, just to clarify Joachim's post, both the M6 Classic and M6 TTL had TTL metering. The M6 TTL also had TTL flash (hence the moniker) - but the classic did not.

[mike.ong]

Thanks for the welcome.

 

I appreciate the response guys, thanks a lot.

 

Now, the urge is getting stronger.

 

Mike

[Xmas]

Hi

 

Simpler getting a Weston Master II or III and a M2.

 

The M2 is nicer, and cheaper and faster...

 

Noel

[earleygallery]

Mike you say you don't use a meter for daylight shooting so why do you want a ttl metered M ?

 

For low light metering I suggest you buy a digital hand held meter which will have the necessary ev range - you will have to use the b setting on the M6 for exposures longer than 1 sec

[aesop]

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Hi

 

Simpler getting a Weston Master II or III and a M2.

 

The M2 is nicer, and cheaper and faster...

 

Noel

 

 

...cheaper maybe, but nicer and faster? By what objective measure, Noel?

[Xmas]

Hi

 

Nicer = brass gears smooth, smoother than MP, has condenser in range finder, uncluttered finder, use 35mm lens, or 28mm without frames...

 

Faster = no exposure meter lights to distract, you have to meter both sides of the street, and remember, shoot first ask yours fafter wards if you have just over or under exposed as you wind on...

 

You may need a printer like HCB had,... tempi

 

Noel

 

P.S.

 

- use XP2 until you sort out street sides,

- cost 50-60% of M6 classic

- get quick load kit if you are used to M4 or later

[mathomas]

I like my M2, too. $500 at the local camera store. Beautiful condition. Have used "sunny 16" with great success (light meter on order for indoors, tricky conditions).

[dkCambridgeshire]

If you get an M6 Classic be sure to set the meter to 'B' when the camera is not in use to avoid battery drain.

 

Welcome to the Forum.

 

dunk

[mike.ong]

Mike you say you don't use a meter for daylight shooting so why do you want a ttl metered M ?

 

For low light metering I suggest you buy a digital hand held meter which will have the necessary ev range - you will have to use the b setting on the M6 for exposures longer than 1 sec

 

I want to get a metered camera or probably a meter for indoor and low light use.

 

I use Sunny 16 for the street of course.

[mike.ong]

If you get an M6 Classic be sure to set the meter to 'B' when the camera is not in use to avoid battery drain.

 

Welcome to the Forum.

 

dunk

 

THanks Dunk!

 

I'll remember that! Or probably just place a battery if meter is needed.

[mike.ong]

Hi

 

Simpler getting a Weston Master II or III and a M2.

 

The M2 is nicer, and cheaper and faster...

 

Noel

 

Hi Noel,

 

Thanks for the suggestion. Actually I was about to buy an M2 earlier this month.

 

I had the chance to compare both cameras (m2 and m6) and both are great IMHO.

The reason why I'm going for the m6 is it's shape. As for me, it's sexier to handle than the M2. Like a Range Rover to an H2.

 

Of course, I would like to own an M2. Probably after the M6 and a 28mm lens.

 

Thanks everyone for the suggestions.

[Xmas]

Hi

 

Cause the meter is selected on the 1st shutter release pressure, when in a Gbag the meter can be selected frequently e.g. as you walk, so you may have to select B when you store it in gbag for a while.

 

Or leave the battery out.

 

Noel

[mike.ong]

Very common to M6 users, most of my friends had this experience and end up draining the bat.

[earleygallery]

I want to get a metered camera or probably a meter for indoor and low light use.

 

I use Sunny 16 for the street of course.

 

I reiterate then the need for a good digital hand held meter. The meter in the M6 won't read beyond the 1s shutter speed (depends on how low light you're going of course).

[mike.ong]

I reiterate then the need for a good digital hand held meter. The meter in the M6 won't read beyond the 1s shutter speed (depends on how low light you're going of course).

 

Yeah, I think I'm gonna need one.

 

Thanks Man!

[Xmas]

I reiterate then the need for a good digital hand held meter. The meter in the M6 won't read beyond the 1s shutter speed (depends on how low light you're going of course).

 

Cheating by opening up the lens aperture and setting the ISO higher to get a reading and then setting lens back again is a lot slower than using a low light level meter.

 

Noel

[usayit]

M2 versus M6 should also include a decision on framelines and viewfinder magnification. M6 has a wider selection of framelines and different magnifications to choose.

 

I personally would seriously consider the M6 TTL. Their are some small differences between ttl and classic. Larger shutter dial that turns the "correct" way and matches the direction of meter arrows and my M8. The classic viewfinder patch also is notorious for flare making it difficult to focus. Some mentioned the battery drain.. just always return to B when not in use. There is also the added ttl functionality with the appropriate flash.

 

With that said, I have an M6 titanium classic. Its a joy to use.

 

 

 

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[budrichard]

From a price/performance perspective, the M6 Classic is the best of all the M cameras produced.

How anyone can say that an M2 is faster is beyond me? Simply load an M6, set the ASA on the back, choose a shutter speed, move the aperture ring until the correct exposure is indicated and shoot, all while not taking the M6 from your eye except for initial loading and ASA setting.

It really does not matter which way the shutter dial rotates, the rangefinder flare may not be as subdued as other M's but it certainly is viable, the meter sensitivity may be a little different but not enough to matter in most cases and how many times does want the camera to meter below 1s?

It's form/function is just like every other M so how it can feel any different is beyond me.

What it is in terms of price is usually a little more than a Mint M3/M2/M4, unless truly Mint and some collector wants the M3/M2/M4, less typically than either an M6 TTL, MP or M7. Basically the same as an MP, it will take exactly the same picture as an MP with tha same lens. All the so called improvements in an MP will make absolutely no difference in the final product.

Lastly, since manufactured after any M3/M2/M4, it should have better reliability but of course the MP is a lot newer manufacture.

If I had to choose only one M camera to have, it would be my M6 Classic 0.85.-Dick

 

One final comment:

 

'I use Sunny 16 for the street of course"

 

Why anyone would use this arcane rule with either built in meters or handheld available is beyond me. Sunny 16 does not guarantee anything in terms of exposure, cannot know the shadows you may be shooting into, the brightness range of a scene or a host of other exposure parameters. Do think by the words "of course", that all M photographers use this Rule if not in the studio and its required of M users? If using this Rule, you might as well go back to a Kodak 'Brownie'. I've been using M cameras for 30+ years starting with an M3 and have never taken a picture without metering the scene.-Dick