TAKE 2 **M8-Learning RF focusing and the results..OUCH!**

[bmc]

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thanks for all the suggestions. here was my second attempt. much better, but still working on it.

 

the aperture 3 editing end of things is still rough. i would like to make the ball a little brighter yellow, and cant seem to figure out how to change just the color of the ball. same thing with the sky, there are parts that are nice and blue (behind the trees) and can seem to figure out how to get the sky above the roof line blue (bluer-sp?).

 

anyway, thanks to all the encourage me to shoot this again. practice practice practice.

[jbgeach]

Not bad, it is much easier to focus on things that aren't moving, but to each his own. One tip.

If something is moving towards you, push your focus past your subject and then wait for the subject to move into the focal plane.

[karl101]

I Like No.3 with the dog about to catch the ball. Are you doing anything to avoid dog, Leica collision chaos? :-) Good work.

 

Karl

[bmc]

I Like No.3 with the dog about to catch the ball. Are you doing anything to avoid dog, Leica collision chaos? :-) Good work.

 

Karl

 

nope, just shot with the 50 cron, so im pretty far away for all the action. i will admit, this particular dog is pretty good. he is so driven that all he wants is the ball, and then to go back to the handler and have it thrown again. he is doing a great job for a 4 month old.

 

" Not bad, it is much easier to focus on things that aren't moving, but to each his own "

 

me too, but i have a funny feeling that things in my life are going to be in motion for quite a while to come.... maybe in 15 years or so ill be able to rest and shoot things not moving!

[farnz]

BMC,

 

Your problem with the sky is that it's blown out because you've metered to retain detail in the coal-black lab. Put simply, between the black lab and the bright sky there is just too much dynamic range for your M8's sensor to cope with. Many M8 users dial in 1/3 or 2/3 of a stop underexposure to prevent blowing the highlights and then adjust in PS as needed.

 

The problem with blown highlights is that because the photodiodes in the sensor have been saturated no detail is recorded so no matter how much recovery work is done in PS there is still little or no detail to recover.

 

One thing that may help a little in PS, well Adobe Camera Raw actually, is when you open your raw file (or if it's a jpeg open it as a raw file) use the Recovery slider to recover as much detail in the highlights as you can. If that doesn't help then there's no detail (or blue) to recover.

[mathomas]

...

 

the aperture 3 editing end of things is still rough. i would like to make the ball a little brighter yellow, and cant seem to figure out how to change just the color of the ball. same thing with the sky, there are parts that are nice and blue (behind the trees) and can seem to figure out how to get the sky above the roof line blue (bluer-sp?).

 

...

 

Others' comments on blown out highlights are correct. However, for the other cases, read on:

 

I'm an Aperture user, but haven't upgraded to version 3 yet. I know they added some tools for selective editing. However, I doubt they can compare to what Nik Software's "Viveza" can do. They have a trial version and it can work as an Aperture plugin, so give it a shot. After experimenting with both Viveza and Silver Efex, I bought the whole suite. It's that good.

 

(Others, I'd appreciate it if you'd chime in if I'm wrong regarding Aperture 3's new features and whether they obsolete Nik's offerings. Thanks!)

[bmc]

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BMC,

 

Your problem with the sky is that it's blown out because you've metered to retain detail in the coal-black lab. Put simply, between the black lab and the bright sky there is just too much dynamic range for your M8's sensor to cope with. Many M8 users dial in 1/3 or 2/3 of a stop underexposure to prevent blowing the highlights and then adjust in PS as needed.

.

 

see this is why i love the M8. im a complete idiot. i shot film 20 years ago, then nothing but various cannon and panisonic point and shoot digital, then 2 or 3 months with a cannon DSLR. ive read a few books recently, took a couple of private lessons, read some more on the net and this forum. and even i figured out that i need to shoot the camera stopped down 1/3. i like the explanation and i will try the nik software. as for Aperture 3 i have no idea how to selectively edit. i play around a bit more.

 

thanks again for the input.

[farnz]

Sorry, I can't help with Aperture because I have a pc.

 

Pete.