help scanning

[jacksparrow]

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Dear members,

 

I've just bought an Nikon Coolscan V ED. In my first attempts to scan film negatives (Ilford XP2) I've seen awful scratches on the scanned files, and then, upon ejecting of the negative, I've seen the're now on the film stripe too!!

 

I don't know what I'm doing wrong, is it possible that the film is upside down and the emusion is being scratched as a result of the wrong film insertion? I've tried both orientations and the scratches seem to be there no matter what.

 

By the way, is it possible that the lab has processed those negatives carelessly and they're all damaged from the begining? they seem to have minor scratches already just out of the protective sleeve, but it's difficult for me to judge if they're enough to show up as they do in the final scans.

 

I've posted a sample file with a enlargement.

 

thanks in advance for your help.

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[nyrich]

Those are some heavy duty scratches.

 

Since you apparently did not examine the negs for scratches prior to scanning, there is no way to be sure where they originated. All that I can say is that, in over two years of Coolscan V ownership, mine has never scratched a negative.

 

As you indicate that other negs are already showing scratches right out of the sleeve, I'd be surprised if it wasn't the lab. You may want to think about finding a new lab.

 

Since XP2 is a C41 process film, try re-scanning with ICE turned on. It should be able to elminate all but the worst of the scratches.

[Guest Bernd Banken]

Now is the time to start the developing by yourself. It's not complicated, you need only some minutes at night, small amount of chemicals and you get:

 

a wonderful feeling after you opened the small developing can and get the look of your first, second, third.....film, made by yourself:D

 

If some cratches will appear, you can blame yourself - and start stamping in PS....

 

Cheers

Bernd

[andybarton]

No matter which lab I used for C41 processing, my negatives always came back scratched in some way. It's just the way that the machines work, as well as the "skill" of the operatives.

 

As Bernd says, processing your own B&W is a piece of cake. At least when the negs are scratched, you know who's to blame

[jacksparrow]

Dear nyrich, you are a genius! ICE did the trick, the scans look great now!! well... at least no scratches ;-)

 

I guess I'll have to carefully read the manual, and not just the "quick scan guide".

 

Thanks everyone for their (as usual) incredibly fast and useful advice.

 

Bernd, andy. Thanks for the "process yourself" advice. That is in fact my long term goal, but I'm trying to go one step at a time (and unfortunately I don't have that much free time right now).

 

I'm sure that as soon as I start with the developing I'll have to bother everyone here again A LOT more.

 

thanks again, much much happier with the scanner now!

[cpclee]

I've had two film scanners, one Nikon and one Minolta. Neither would scratch film...

[zanydave]

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I use the Nikon Coolscan IV (LS40 ED) It ain't the scanner causing those scratches, It's down to the lab. Even had negs like that processed by Ilford.

 

Dave

[fotohuis]

No matter which lab I used for C41 processing, my negatives always came back scratched in some way. It's just the way that the machines work, as well as the "skill" of the operatives.

 

As Bernd says, processing your own B&W is a piece of cake. At least when the negs are scratched, you know who's to blame

 

Indeed, this is caused by the rollers in a regular automatic C41 dev. machine.

If you are going to develop yourself in a reel (B&W and/or C41) you will see the differences, especially on the roll films.

But also C41 development is in fact easy if you have the right temperature control system. You can have perfect developed C41 film already with a simple Jobo TBE-2 unit and the right C41 chemicals. It's not difficult at all, you only need some TIME

 

Best regards,

 

Robert

[john_r_smith]

Jack

 

if my photo lab sent me back negatives scratched like that, I would change my lab very fast. That is totally unacceptable. My local pro lab returns me immaculate MF and 35mm work, beautifully sleeved. A lot of our stuff here at work is MF aerial photography, which gets enlarged to big print sizes for analysis (for crop marks), and we would notice even small scratches or dust on them. Actually, machine processing should be just as good or often better than tank processing at home, it's a matter of keeping the machines well maintained and replenished.

 

John

[wide.angle]

Glad ICE fixed them. Judging by the curvature of the scratches, I would say they were not done by a machine at all (e.g., scanner pulls film in a straight line), but by sloppy handling.

[nyrich]

Dear nyrich, you are a genius! ICE did the trick, the scans look great now!! well... at least no scratches ;-)

 

Of course I am.

 

ICE is one of the main reasons why I'm still shooting film. The thing that I hated most in my darkroom days was spotting prints and it's not any more pleasant doing it in Photoshop.

 

Happy to help.

[jacksparrow]

wide.angle is right about the shape of the scratches, thats why I thought it wasn't the scanner...

nyrich you saved me! thanks again.

 

Sorry the rest of the crowd since this is a very specific Nikon Coolscan question: I've been playing with the other ICE4 values, and I've seen that the scans look better if post processing is enabled. Specifically, I've found these values to give best results:

 

Digital ROC = 0

Digital GEM = 3 - 4

DEE (Shadow Adjustment) = 10 - 25%

Also Enable Image Enhancer

 

I've also read in the internet that there's an option somewhere to take the average of a number of scans to improve signal-to-noise ratio. Can you point me to the menu?, I haven't been able to find it on the manual.

 

E

[stunsworth]

Hi Eugenio

 

I don't think the multipass feature is available with the standard Nikon software. You need something like Vuescan - VueScan Scanning Software - to do this.

 

I should also add that I have a Coolscan V and have been a longtime Vuescan user.

[Mark Antony]

Indeed, this is caused by the rollers in a regular automatic C41 dev. machine.

 

I doubt that! as a film processing tech for 22 years I can tell you if the rollers scratch they scratch the entire length of the film. Grit or dried chemistry can scratch at the top rollers particularly on the stabiliser exit rollers but if the grit is there it will damage the entire length of the film, - we call this damage 'tram lines'

If the lab damaged this it will be at the sleeving stage as the type of scratches seen here are rough handling ones.

When hand printing damaged negs if the scratch is on the base (shiny) side a little 'nose grease' can sometimes save the day

(I kid you not)

Mark

[Harrison]

From local labs at least, ive never had negs back that haven't been scratched or marked in some way. I only use them as a last resort, or for colour film. I'm fortunate to be able to develop b+w film at college

[Mark Antony]

From local labs at least, ive never had negs back that haven't been scratched or marked in some way. I only use them as a last resort, or for colour film. I'm fortunate to be able to develop b+w film at college

 

That's terrible, I must live in a minilab paradise in my city, I can honestly say that in 20 years or so I can count on one hand the films that came off our machines damaged by the processor. Most modern machines (Fuji Agfa, Noristsu) are designed so the machines themselves have little or no contact with the film, the films are basically dragged through the machine on a leader. The critical points where damage can occur are the exit squeegees these are made of special synthetic rubber, and on our machine at least (Agfa) were spayed with water jets (self cleaning) as each film is loaded.

I can honestly say that I processed 200-600 films a day at the height of my business (1984-97) and can swear on my life that film damage was a very rare occurrence.

 

You may want to find a Lab that uses a 'Dip and Dunk' type film processor as these are used by pro-labs because they have no contact with the film whatsoever.

 

I use a lot of film and can count myself lucky it seems that all of the labs in my city (8 or so) are A1 as I've tried them all and never had any damaged films!!

[Guest Metroman]

Hi Eugenio

I don't think the multipass feature is available with the standard Nikon software. You need something like Vuescan - VueScan Scanning Software - to do this.

 

I should also add that I have a Coolscan V and have been a longtime Vuescan user.

 

Eugenio

 

I bought a Coolscan V ED after being dissapointed with the Epson V750 Pro and someone pointed me at Vuescan and I love it. Can be as simple of as complex as you like. It takes some getting used to but worth the time spent learning.

 

I used a set of negs I knew were good as a starting point and then just played with various settings until I had a decent base setup. The multipass and long exposure controls are under the 'More' button.

[jacksparrow]

thanks andy

I'll try vuescan sice everybody seem so happy with it.

 

E

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[archi4]

I have had a couple of Nikon scanners (now the 8000) and after trying many scan programs find Nikon scan 4 program to be the best. Sometimes I use Silverfast AI and HDR for extended dynamic range, but the Scan 4 is easiest.

 

The software does provide for multi scanning, look on the special features part of the software interface.

 

The scratches are not from either scanner or the lab machine. Those are parallel and straight like the scratches which a camera can produce and not in all directions as you show.

 

regards

 

maurice

[Machaon]

I have about the same experience with all sort of B&W negatives from various age and sources using a Nikon scanner (LS 5000)... The scanner is a fabulous scratch and spot enhancer : you see on your screen more that you would see with most of top quality enlargers.

It is also clear that due to poor general quality, even with "pro" labs, that we shoud go back to the darkroom at least for film developpment with tanks and gentle care...

 

Next step is Photoshop wise use : what to stamp or not depending of your printer and printing size. Do not waste your time with small defects i f you are not producing very large prints !!!

 

I did not switch to digital yet and I am still trying to get the best of the two worlds but scanning films is quite cumbersome even if you are very selective.