Noctilux as a Portrait lens on M8

[brill64]

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Frank, I used to shoot a lot of portraits for annual reports. I've got some tips if you want them.

 

i'd like them..

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[Guest BigSplash]

Frank--I "bracket" my focusing with the Noctilux, especially when shooting portraits. Focus, shoot. Then move the camera about half an inch closer, shoot. Move the camera about 1 to 1.5" back, shoot. You get the idea. Don't "bracket" by adusting the focus..just adjust YOUR distance to the subject. It works well. With M8 it's easy since advance is automatic (trickier with single stroke M film cameras). Good luck - it is a great lens.

 

I guess this is the way forward and a good approach. Looking through my various images of last weekend lunch I see that various images were out of focus at the eyeball but not the necklace, or a woolen jumper where every fibre could be seen on the shoulders.......This suggests to me that with a Noctilux at full aperture the DOF is small and from the data above it seems to confirm this.

 

I looked at Jaapv web site link that quotes at a subject distance of 3metres a 16cm as DOF ..or roughly 8 cm before and behind the point of focus. That is not a huge amount especially if the focus is just a tad out.

 

I bought my first Leica (M4) about 30 years ago so I think I have an experience level to at least get the focussing right with the RF. However with the Noctilux at full aperture I am becoming convinced it is not possible to guarantee focussing accuracy at 3 metres in poor light conditions so the above technique of moving forward / back SLIGHTLY seems mandatory.

It also suggests to me that maybe for such lenses and a future evoloution of M9 some kind of focus verification with a laser accessory would be beneficial. ...with an indication in the viewfinder that the subject is indeed in focus.

 

Given the various threads during recent months on lens callibration for a digital M camera being more critical than film I guess that is why my Noctilux seemed to be less critical on focussing with film.

[jaapv]

You should get an M9 - much easier to focus...The sensor crop (before I get flamed - this is true and confirmed by Leica!) and the precision of a sensor do indeed combine to make focussing more challenging on the M8 - but it can be done with practice.

[plasticman]

Yawn. I have absolutely no problem whatsoever focussing the noctilux on the M8. I repeat - none whatsoever. This includes test shots of newspapers and rulers, and even shots of my never-still 1,5 year old daughter.

 

I have to say i'm tired of people with eyesight problems blaming the M8 for blurred or improperly focussed images. No need for an M9 (yawn again) - you'll be wasting your money when what you need is your eyes tested.

[ho_co]

Frank--

Re original Noctilux, see the article in LFI 2/2010.

 

Wide open, the 1.2 is noticeably crisper across the field than the 1.0. So if you like the dreamy look, you might actually prefer the second version. (And of course, the current 0.95 was designed to keep that soft and dreamy boke wide open, but to pep up better at smaller apertures.)

 

I'm not sure, but I think the 1.2 might have had a bit more focus shift on stopping down than its successors, so you might want to run a focus test on your lens wide open near its closest distance, or at the distance you use for portraiture. That is, your 75 and 90 may focus fine, but you might want to reassure yourself about the Noctilux. Accurate focus is much more demanding with digital than was the case with film (see Michael's article in LFI 3/2010).

 

 

Personally, I'm delighted to see one of those old crackers out being used, rather than resting on a collector's shelf!

[Logic108]

At closet focusing distance f/1 is very difficult to use - so you need to be back at least 2 meters. If you are shooting indoors then try to use fill-flash so that you can shoot with a high shutter speed. Personally I have never seen an image shot at closest focal range with widest aperture indoors that has been satisfactory. In a studio situation it's possible because you can control the lighting.

So to the OP everything is fine but no leica lens or camera is going to give you a satisfactory image in the conditions you have described. It's obviously all about light and there are limitations to a strobeless setup that even the fastest lenses wont overcome.

[marknorton]

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I've never really got on with the original Noctilux at closest focus because focussing is so critical. Then add in the long focus throw and heavy feel and it's not an easy lens to use.

 

As others have suggested, I preset the focus distance and move backwards and forwards to achieve the focus I want but a mis-aligned rangefinder is enough to ruin every shot. It's important to practice with the lens and get to know from the rangefinder indication what's going to be in focus. In spite of that, my success rate is pretty dismal.

 

The lens is a revelation on an MFT body; live sensor viewing allowing exact focussing, vignetting nicely removed, pity about the 2.0 crop factor (though only 1.5 compared to the M8, 100mm FF equivalent). Much the same with the 75mm Summilux which is another trial to use wide open and close up.

[stunsworth]

The lens is a revelation on an MFT body...

 

I have an adaptor in its way to me from China for use on my GF1. The only issue I'd have - and it's a personal thing - is that I still don't like using the rear screen. I'm probably too used to a viewfinder. I keep thinking about getting the clip on electronic viewfinder, but I've heard quite a few stories about it not being very good.

 

The GF1 has been a revelation, I've finally got a high quality digital camera I can carry around with me everywhere - and the 20mm lens is an excellent performer. My only regret is that it doesn't have Leica stamped on it, so I can't post any photographs.

[noctiman007]

The GF 1 is a good performer with the Noctilux. I personally prefer the Olympus E-P 2, as for my eyes the focussing is even easier. Depends very much on your individual eye performance, I guess.

[plasticman]

Sorry for the exasperated tone of my previous post - I must admit to some disproportionate irritation when I read criticism of the Noctilux in combination with the M8, which I personally feel is more often than not due to user error.

 

In any case, to be more constructive - try to use the tips already given: rock back and forth when you have 'ballpark' focus; use easily distinguished oulines - such as eyelashes - to hit critical focus.

 

Most of all, remember this is digital - shoot as many frames as your subject will tolerate. In this case, maybe more of your portraits will be informal rather than posed - so that the subject doesn't feel obligated to keep a steely grin on their face for minutes on end.

[Theodor Heinrichsohn]

Frank--

Re original Noctilux, see the article in LFI 2/2010.

 

Wide open, the 1.2 is noticeably crisper across the field than the 1.0. So if you like the dreamy look, you might actually prefer the second version. (And of course, the current 0.95 was designed to keep that soft and dreamy boke wide open, but to pep up better at smaller apertures.)

 

That is the reason I have kept the 1.2 and the 1.0 and returned the 0.95 Noctilux. I will use the 1.4 50/ asph. for the smaller apertures.

Teddy

[marknorton]

The GF-1 finder is not going to appeal to any Leica M user but it's light-years ahead (as is the G1 built-in finder) of the finder in the Digilux 2.

 

To my mind, the GF-1 with 20mm lens is the camera the X1 should have been, able to take MFT lenses and, with an adapter, M lenses.