M6 Classic or M6TTL?

[menos I M6]

Advertisement (gone after registration)

That is a good point Etienne.

 

I thought this way too, when I decided on which bodies to get.

I got the M6 classic as a first Leica and had no idea about the different bodies, whatsoever.

Out of sentimentality, I kept (and intend to keep) next to an M7 and M8.2.

 

I have no usage issues though with the different shutter speed directions, meter or smaller dial.

In fact, I feel a bit like switching from the D3 to the M8.2, when switching from the M7 to the M6 classic ;-)

 

It slows the pace and makes shooting even more enjoyable (especially with the silky smooth film advance, the perfect precision of the shutter speed dial and so forth).

 

Seriously - Leica did a step down in haptics and precision feel from the M6 classic to the M8.2 (supposedly to the M9 as well)!

 

The M6 classic is made out of one block - no dial comes loose, the shutter speed dial feels precise as a watch and has no play.

My M8.2 feels a bit loosy here ;-)

 

I guess, this is even more pronounced with todays MP. It indeed makes for a different feel (and is not entirely about battery dependence vs automatic exposure, etc).

[Advertisement]

The Leica Q3 is available for pre-order at B&H Photo Video and Adorama

[trs]

Well, fell in love with M6 classic (checked out one last night). I thought I might not like the small shutter dial knob, but it actually looks very good.

 

Lack of metering lock and wrong side dial (from M8) did not bother me at all. Planning to pick up today.

 

Thanks for all the help.

[menos I M6]

Well, fell in love with M6 classic (checked out one last night). I thought I might not like the small shutter dial knob, but it actually looks very good.

 

Lack of metering lock and wrong side dial (from M8) did not bother me at all. Planning to pick up today.

 

Thanks for all the help.

 

Well with the M6 classic, your metering lock is the shutter speed and aperture all by itself

 

You even have a huuuge exposure compensation dial on the back too

 

Good, you made a decision Tanka - pick it up now and shoot it - you won't regret.

[surfer dude]

FWIW, I have the M6TTL, 0.58 version. It is the only Leica I've ever used and I love it, so it gets a vote from me.

 

Best regards, Phil

[kivis]

And most important: meter of ttl works better in very low light (2 etra stops)!

for real? How does it accomplish that?

[E.M]

I think 1 stop more sensitive than the latest classic and 2 stops more than the early classic , just my thought .

 

Etienne Michiels

[menos I M6]

Advertisement (gone after registration)

Please, don't get me wrong on this. I don't argue against a more sensitive meter.

 

Just a comment against fear of not sufficient metering with a "late M6 classic":

 

When I run out of meter with my M6, I have:

 

- loaded TX400 film, pushed to @ ISO6400

- AND shoot a 50 1.4 lens!

 

So anybody, worrying about a better/ worse meter on either camera really has to shoot in very, very low light.

When I indeed run out of meter with the M6 classic, it is very easy, to judge the light with my eyes, as I have a good reference, pointing the camera at a brighter zone.

 

Shooting under ISO1600 - don't sweat the meter?!

The shots, where the meter runs out are pushed like crazy anyway (and scanned accordingly).

[trs]

Yep, picked it up last night. Even though it is old camera, the owner kept it like new. I almost feel like if it is OK to take it out to shoot .

 

I will burn probably few rolls in the beggining. But, it will probably just a roll a month of so after that since it is going to work as backup for M8.

 

Can't wait for the weekend to take it out.

 

Thanks.

[lincoln_m]

Hi,

 

I agree with the M6TTL larger dial and logical rotation for metering, as the M7 also has. It is all manual speed settings but with added TTL flash metering which works well with SF20/24 flashes although the slow sync of 1/50th or slower makes fill flash almost impossible outside because of the corresponding small f-stop meaning a very powerfull flash is needed, which SF20/24 are not. (I think I've got that right).

 

M6TTL battery, yes my one did seem to get through batteries especially in the cold. 3 weeks in Nepal and 10 films I got through 3 batteries. Even in the cold my MP says the battery is dead but it recovers when back over 5C, but then i can't remember when I last put a new battery in the MP.

 

M7 batteries die slowly and the bottom led flashes even when exposure compensation is not set but it still works. Putting new batteries in solves the issue. M7 batteries seem to last surprisingly well considering they are firing and timing the shutter too.

 

One thing about the M6 classic that I've not liked is the often wobbly speed dial. It seems to be a cheaper version of the one on the M2/M3/MP. So I bought the M6TTL instead. That has now been replaced by an M7. I also have an MP, as the speed dial is smaller and rotates the "wrong way" compared to the meter arrows it takes a little while to realise to turn the MP dial in the opposite direction, but the smaller size helps the brain realise you have an MP in your hands and not M6TTL / M7.

 

M6 classic may feel smoother because they are run in more. A new MP does feel smoother than even a 10 year M6TTL. My 44 year old M2 does feel very smooth but shutter sounds louder than M7 or MP. I suppose the M2 was the poor mans M3 in it's day.

 

For an all mechanical M (with meter) working in the cold, best is an MP, or next M6TTL ( with spare batteries). For all round feature set and ease of use the M7 is a good bet especially if you can find the later ones with the MP rangefinder coatings. The M7 should be about 300 more than M6TTL and M6 classic is about 200 less than M6TTL. Of course the M6TTL should also be newer than M6 classic but more expensive.

 

The MP and M6 classic size is just right, the M6TTL and M7 extra 2.5mm is noticeable but the weight difference is not. M6TTL has a Zinc top plate. I think M6 classic, M2, MP and M7 all have solid brass tops.

 

It is good to have a spare M body. I think the bigger decision is going to be colour and Rangefinder magnification. I had an M6TTL with 0.85 which was great for 50mm but for 35mm you had to press your eye ball in and look around the frame. My 0.72x cameras are better for 35mm focal length. For the M7 I moved over to black, now I feel I need to get another 35f2asph in black instead of the chrome one. My 50mms are in black so are happy on chrome or black bodies. Of course the film does not know if you have chrome lens on black body, it is just a cosmetic ego thing. The heavier chrome lenses do feel easier to justify the big prices these days but that is also a weird Leica feel thing.

 

Just use the film M as much as you can, which ever you get, and rattle through lots of film, slide or B&W neg.

 

Best of luck searching for your next Leica,

 

Regards, Lincoln

[jerryharwood]

Funnily enough, the leica handbook for the M6ttl, states that to turn the meter off, you set the dial to 'B', and not to 'off'. I found that if you inadvertantly put the dial to the off mark, within a week the battery was drained, Whereas if the dial is set to 'B', there is no problem with the battery. This is obviously something which should be addressed, as most people would set the dial to the 'Off ' position, as it is logical. Why the off position is marked is puzzling, as the handbook specifically instructs not to use it!

[wstotler]

M6 TTL works at all speeds.

Availability of TTL in 0.85 is better than with classic, but still plenty of 0.85 classics about if you have the abilitity to wait a month or two.

Shutter dial rotation is in same direction with TTL and M8. Sounds like a TTL is the best bet.

 

+1. I purchased a TTL based on these criteria. I've been very happy with mine, for the little that it does get actual use. Cheers, Will