SF20 Flash + M6 TTL

[pipeclayed]

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Hi,

 

I have the M6 TTL and SF20 flash.

 

I've had some fairly decent results using the flash via guesswork (ie. just setting it to TTL mode and shooting).

 

However, I really am pretty much in the dark (pun intended!) when it comes to the SF20 and to flash in general. I was hoping someone might be able to help...

 

When in TTL mode, I never get the metering 'right' (there's always an arrow telling me to change the shutter speed - sometimes even a flashing arrow that indicates exposure is way off). Does this matter?

 

Also, why should I use the A or M modes? Or should I just stick with TTL?

 

Any further tips about using flash (and specifically this combination of flash and camera) would also be welcome.

 

Thanks in advance!

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[Walt Calahan]

Ignore your meter. The scene is dark so the meter is telling you to adjust your shutter speed to get a correct exposure. The meter has no idea the flash is attached until the strobe fires.

 

M = manual setting. You measure the distance from the strobe to the subject, and the scale on the back of the strobe tells you what aperture to use. Or you can calculate your exposure using a flash meter.

 

A = automatic setting, meaning the sensor in the strobe calculates when to turn off the flash. This is used when attached to a camera without TTL capabilities.

 

For 99% of the rest of your shooting, leave the strobe on TTL, and let you camera do the work.

 

I have found using a Nikon SC-29 flash extension cord handy if you want to get the flash off camera. Nikon | SC-29 TTL Off-Camera Shoe Cord with AF Assist - | 4766

[pipeclayed]

Ignore your meter. The scene is dark so the meter is telling you to adjust your shutter speed to get a correct exposure. The meter has no idea the flash is attached until the strobe fires.

 

M = manual setting. You measure the distance from the strobe to the subject, and the scale on the back of the strobe tells you what aperture to use. Or you can calculate your exposure using a flash meter.

 

A = automatic setting, meaning the sensor in the strobe calculates when to turn off the flash. This is used when attached to a camera without TTL capabilities.

 

For 99% of the rest of your shooting, leave the strobe on TTL, and let you camera do the work.

 

I have found using a Nikon SC-29 flash extension cord handy if you want to get the flash off camera. Nikon | SC-29 TTL Off-Camera Shoe Cord with AF Assist - | 4766

Thank you - that's incredibly helpful!

[think]

I use an SF-20 with my M6TTL's regularly and I've never taken it out of TTL mode.

 

I have found that I like the results better with the diffuser in place and most often find myself setting -2/3 to -1 flash comp in addition to avoid the "blowout" common to direct on-camera flash.

 

It's a surprisingly functional little unit and has pretty good power with 400 or 800 speed films.

[kingsley244]

Ignore your meter. The scene is dark so the meter is telling you to adjust your shutter speed to get a correct exposure. The meter has no idea the flash is attached until the strobe fires.| 4766[/url]

 

Is it possible to use the camera (M6) to set the exposure for the background while the TTL flash exposes the foreground ?

[alun]

Kingsley, With practice you can certainly balance flash and ambient light, as long as there is little enough light in thefirst place to allow you to use a speed of 50 or below. I take a meter reading (usually an incident reading) for the ambient light at a sixtieth. Let's say the indicated aperture at that reading is 5.6. I close down a stop to f8 and dial the flash down by say 1 and two-third stops. This gives a gentle and barely discernible touch of flash. I used this approach last year when photographing at a series of charities where the indoor lighting from venue to venue was lower than I expected and pretty unpredictable. I got consistently good results without blowout and back shadows. Oh, and that was based on using 400asa film.