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That ol' digital Tri-X...


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I have said in another thread but will not hesitate to say again:

 

There're mainly two types of photographers in the Digital Forum:

 

1. Those who have NEVER shot with film.

2. Those who have shot (once upon a time) with film but have long forgotten the look of film. :D

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h.c..

 

read carefully.. soryy - i cannot sit and write and correct things..... and besides there is no obligation to read my texts :-)))))))))

what nikon???? i dont have nikon... no nikon and no leica nad no nothing that is digital is comparable to film... those are different things. and beleive me, i know digitals that are far better than any nikon canon or leica....

digital is nice but film is like having sex with light. that is it. but on leica forum the connction between the legendary leica m and the legendary kodak tri-x may lead people to think that every leica produces automatically the legendary photos that have ben done with legendary tri-x. so we just test that the we have new legendary camera that gives results like old legendary photography... and of course there is no better way to co-relate the new legendary camera to the old legendary photography with old legendary leica and old good legendary tri-x... a combination that helped many legendary photographers to create legendary images :-)))))))))))))

 

frc....

ploice of tr-x :-)))) no man - it seems that tri-x needs a strong dictator support :-))))))))

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h.c..read carefully.. soryy - i cannot sit and write and correct things.....

Victor--I asked simply that you attempt standard English. Other posters to the forum seem to be able to "sit and write and correct things." Why not you?

 

what nikon???? i dont have nikon... no nikon and no leica nad no nothing that is digital is comparable to film...

Victor? Are you there? You are the one who mentioned Nikon IN ALL CAPS in your previous post. I answered what I took to be your question and now you complain.

 

You see, one of the benefits of writing in an accepted style is that it can be understood. ;)

 

But then, perhaps your lack of understanding of English is the reason you didn't understand the title of the thread: Andy is saying, I think, "Look, aren't these good images from the M8?"

 

For the rest, see my previous post--and try to read it before you react to it!

 

Namaste.

 

--HC

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Victor--I asked simply that you attempt standard English. Other posters to the forum seem to be able to "sit and write and correct things." Why not you?
.. you may as well get used to HC it as you will encounter this form of writing many times before your toes curl over.......standard English whose bloody standard the queen's, something ya red in abook, me own depends where you are if you were rightereinmebakyard your type of langwich would be classified as smug as a smurf.......
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Guest malland

Like some of the other people posting above, I don't think that the pictures look like Tri-X at all — indeed, they have a digital look about them that I don't care for; and, in this respect the "good image quality" doesn't do much for me: quite different from the "dawg" picture.

 

In my limited experience with digital, post processing is very important to get a look in terms of tones that one likes, whether one is trying to get a "film look" or not. in this respect I like the look that I get with my Ricoh GR-D, but will be interested in trying the M8. My GR-D pictures are here:

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/10268776@N00/

 

—Mitch/London

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Sorry, I didn't realize Tri-X qualified as a religion. 8^)

 

I was using the name to mean "the go-anywhere, do anything, generic, find it at Walgreen's" all purpose B&W documentary film in a yellow-and-green box that many people started out with.

 

It's OK stuff - personally, I switched to Ilford products 20 years ago and never looked back. Just as I'm switching to digital, now that there's a rangefinder that can handle it.

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Guest malland

No, I'm an atheist as far as film is concerned, but Tri-X has a ceratin look when developed a certain way with certain developeres; and, actually, I myself usually prefer HP5+. IUn contrast, your pictures have a digital look that I am sure can be changed in post-processing — and I don't mean by adding fake grain, but buy changing the tonal palette. For that purpose, I like LightZone a lot because if allows you to change mid-tones for example without affecting highlights or shadows, and vice versa. Here is an example with the Ricoh GR-D; and I should state the some of the blowing out of highlights is intentional.

 

—Mitch/Johannesburg

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Which tri-x are you people talking about here? Dunked in Rodinal? X-tol? ID-11?

 

These discussions start to float in the ethers when people start claiming that jpegs on the net look "too digital" or have that "Leica look" or have that "Leica glow."

 

And for every person describing the tonalities of "tri-x," you've got a hundred others claiming their own subjective tonalities. At which point in the development/printing have you found the quintissential Tri-x look?

 

Ethers man - nebulous but a wicked wicked drink.

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I'm not a "grainhunter".............. lack of grain is a problem for farmers.......I just hate ))).. that smmoooth fog..///))))*, makes me eyes water...... give me that old fashion fog.. enough I am off to ride my "tri-x,"cle to me mates place to git one of those grain fed critters.

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Mitch: You have a point about "intentional blown highlights" and so on. I probably tend to make my B&W digital pix a bit too long and flat in tonal range (mostly to prove just how much DR digital really can deliver).

 

I'll have to develop (no pun intended) more confidence in making the tonality more dramatic rather than trying to extract every last quarter-stop of shadow and highlight detail just because it's there.

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Mitch: You have a point about "intentional blown highlights" and so on. I probably tend to make my B&W digital pix a bit too long and flat in tonal range (mostly to prove just how much DR digital really can deliver).

 

I'll have to develop (no pun intended) more confidence in making the tonality more dramatic rather than trying to extract every last quarter-stop of shadow and highlight detail just because it's there.

Hi Andy,

Thought I'd hop in to say that I like your shots and that I think Mitch has a good idea. In fooling around with JPEGs out of the M8, I have found that the tonal curve needs a little increase in midtone contrast (very little). I have tried yellow and green filters, but I didn't really choose a sutible subject to show the tonal effects well. One experiment that I have on the list for the future is to try using a Cokin special affect (gells) filter kit, to see if other colors might be what I'm after. We are shooting positives instead of negative, so complimentary color for filters might be in order. The grey tone color response of in-camera B&W is a bit linear compared to film and they may have been trying to mimic the modern T-Max and Delta type emulsions, instead of the legacy silver stuff.

I enjoyed you original post and all the various replies. I hope that you'll keep us up on furthur discoveries.

Bob

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>Here is an example with the Ricoh GR-D; and I should state the some of the blowing out of highlights is intentional.

 

I like the mood a lot. I have absolutely no proble with the blown highlights on screen. But if you try to print pictures and some bright areas are just paper white is can start to be a problem. Did you print this photo?

 

>I'll have to develop (no pun intended) more confidence in making the tonality more dramatic rather than trying to extract every last quarter-stop of shadow and highlight detail just because it's there.

 

Excellent point. It only gets to be a problem if you need it for expressing your vision in your print. One of my current favourites is this one (how little gradation some shots need ,looks very nice on matte fine art paper):

 

http://www.outbackphoto.com/portfoliowork/pw_57/06101ds2_4192_pm.jpg

 

(not Leica).

 

I plan to use the M8 more and more as a pure B&W machine (RAW + JPG). Actually enjoyed the pictures that started this thread.

 

Uwe

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Guest malland
...I have found that the tonal curve needs a little increase in midtone contrast (very little).

 

Bob, I found that Unsharp Mask at 20/50/0 often works very well; but sometimes you have to pull back with a PS curse on the blacks and highlights after that.

 

—Mitch/Johannesburg

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Guest malland
>..I have absolutely no proble with the blown highlights on screen. But if you try to print pictures and some bright areas are just paper white is can start to be a problem. Did you print this photo?

 

Uwe, yes the print looks much better than the jpeg. I've been printing on the 9800 with K3 inks on glossy-type papder, like Luster, and the there is some gloss differential on blown highlights. I've found that waxing with Reneaissance Wax gets rid of that and gives a nice protective finish.

 

—Mitch/Johannesburg

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