How to get a "Focus" Image On M8

[yuweimichael]

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Hello guys,

 

I am new on Rangefinder Camera. I use 50mm f1.4 with M8 now. I am having hard time to get a focus image. Just looking at the small square in the viewfinder is hard for me to get a focus image. What's strategy ? What's hint for this ? How can you see its focus or not from that small white square in the viewfinder? I know if i see no double image means focus. But, what's better way to determine the perfect focus image on rangefinder camer? I used DSL before. Thanks folks

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[c6gowin]

I find the 1.25x viewfinder magnifier to be very helpful. I am also new to the M system and haven't used manual focus in many years (other than Canon tilt/shift lens). I was pleasantly surprised by how fast and easy the M8 focuses, but I was initially disappointed with the high rate of missed focus shots I was getting. After a few hundred shots I am getting better at it and my keeper rate is going up.

 

I came to the realization that I needed to learn a good focusing technique and also be mindful of the very shallow depth of field of the fast lenses. One member stated in a thread a few days ago that he had to focus and then slighty shift the focus closer to get the focus point correct. This statement got me to trying a method where I focus in the direction of far to near for close subjects. My thinking is that if I overshoot the focus, it would be on the close side and there is usually more depth of field behind the focus point than in front. I have also been trying the focusing from near to far, but haven't reached any conclusions for a method that works for me. All I know is my keeper rate is up (probably practice more than anything else).

 

I am open to suggestions and advice from the seasoned veterans.

 

Mark

[trs]

I guess this thread is going to include all of us who are newbie with this focusing system. I used to focus SLRs manually because it was actually faster than auto focus. Then after a while, I started to be patient with auto focus because I trusted it over my eyes. This way I can focus without my glasses.

I really like the M8 focusing system, at least 50% of it. I am still not getting used to conicidence focusing system. I am getting very comfortable with vertical line part (the good 50%). But, none vertical objects are very hard to tell if they match. It could be because I wear glasses. In any case, if there are clear line, like circle (like a plate with line around), I am OK. But, things like tree for example, not sure what matches to what. So, I need to find a trunck or some part I can clearly see to focus.

 

I would love to hear some methods experience folks here use.

 

thank you so much.

-tanka

[j. borger]

Except for the focussing patch there is a distance scale on the lens: so there also is zone focussing to try. Especially stopped down at f8 or f11 there is mostimes no need to focus at all ... just set the distance scale!

If focussing with the patch... it is good common practice to turn the focussing ring always back to infinety after taking a shot. Focussing is faster and easier that way because it means always turning the ring in one direction till the 2 squares match.

[steve_l]

Don't forget the other method of using the focus patch - find a vertical line in your subject (or in something that is the same distance away) and place the focus patch over it - it is usually easy to see the line shifted in the patch vs. outside of the patch, and just line up the two pieces to make one continuous vertical line

[jaapv]

It just is a matter of getting used to... But it does require well corrected eyesight. Leica offers correction lenses.

[wide.angle]

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I have not had mine long, but I've learned this

 

You may also notice that when the image is close on focus, and you aren't sure from matching vertical lines, etc., look at the contrast, adjusting back/forth just slightly. The highest contrast on the subject is probably the closest focus.

 

When shallow DOF is not needed, I sometimes revert to hyperfocal focusing or using the distance scale, because it is so fast in this situation.

[wparsonsgisnet]

I have found the focusing patch relatively easy to use and have gotten used to it since 1970.

 

However, I too have difficulty focusing horizontal targets. I would think that if horizontal lines are the only option, then one should orient the camera vertically (90 degrees, or "sideways") and focus with the patch and then reorient the camera as desired and compose.

 

When I can't get a vertical line in my subject, I use a line elsewhere in the frame -- that is the same estimated distance from the camera.

 

With practice, this focusing method works really well. I do find that I don't often shoot pix with the camera oriented vertically, because I am not used to focusing on horizontal edges. When I need to compose "vertically," I first focus with the camera horizontal, then turn it and compose.

 

What may be peoples' problem is blur. I always carry a monopod with me. Some years ago, I found that 30% or more of my stage shots were not focused. Upon study, I realized that they were blurred, not out of focus. That is when I began using the monopod and it fixed the problem. Tripping the shutter release and holding the camera steady can be a taxing experience.

 

Regards,

[k_g_wolf ✝]

ALWAYS start focusing from infinty, looking at he lens from behind = cameraposition that is, you have to move the lensbarrel only for a few milli- or centimeters to the left to get into closer focus.

 

Holding the the camera and lens with your left hand from underneath, a fingertip in the tab helps.

 

If you come from a mirrioreflex-camera it´ll take some time until you are used to this system. Do not give up too soon. With a classic LEICA-M you would need 20 films to get used to it. With your M8 it might be a matter of 50% of your memorycard.

 

Have fun. Talk to somebody who owns a LEICA-M-camera to teach you some tricks.

 

Best

[lars_bergquist]

I have been using rangefinder cameras since the '50's (1950's, that is ;-)= Here are a few tips:

 

There are three basic techniques. 1. Maximum contrast. Chose the detail you want to focus on, move focus ring/lever until the thing pops out clearly. 2. Coincident lines. Chose a line or contour, move the double lines together. 3. Split image: let the edge of the rangefinder patch cut the line or contour in two. Move the two together. Both in case 2 and 3, if you only have lines or contours going in the wrong direction, focus first, then rotate camera to correct format. Most RF pros do that when shooting in portrait format.

 

Also, when pausing, always return the focus to infinity. That way you don't have to start the next focusing movement by finding out, by trial and error, which way to move! Finally, remember that sitting comfortably in your easy chair, training focusing on various items of furniture, the cat, your Significant Other (try the cat first), etc. does not cost anything in terms of film, battery or shutter wear ... and is enlightening. Practice makes perfect ... truisms have the advantage of being (mostly) true. This one applies to all mechanical arts.

 

The old man from when rangefinder cameras were new

[mat_mcdermott]

One trick that really helped me was determining that I most often shoot with the point of interest in the photograph at around 12-15 feet away from me. It just happens to be that that is where I "see" the image I want to make. With that in mind I usually walk around with the lens already focused at that distance. Then it's just a quick movement one way or the other to nail the subject matter. I agree that focusing on horizontal lines is hard, but seldom is there not something else in the scene on which I can focus to overcome this. Practice, practice, practice.

[wparsonsgisnet]

I have not had to return to infinity in my focusing work with the M-Leica's. The yellow part of the image in the patch, that is that part of the two overlaying images that is colored yellow by the rf mechanism always moves with the lens.

 

I can't be certaint without hauling an M out of the closet, but I recall that when the "yellow" image that doesn't align is to the right of the "other" part of the image that doesn't align, you turn the lens couterclockwise (from the rear). Put another way, move the "top" of the lens in the direction you wish the "yellow" image to move.

 

Sorry if I've got this backward, because it's second nature at this point (like breathing -- we hope). In any case, after some practice it happens so easily that it's not a separate part from the image making process.

 

To echo the zone-focusing comments above, I always zone focus at the beginning of a walkabout, and I always meter the grass or street as well. Be prepared; it's the counterpart to backing up ones digital negs.

[ho_co]

One point that precedes the others here and is probably obvious to everyone posting: Be sure you don't cover either of the rangefinder windows with your fingers.

 

I've seen newcomers to the rangefinder try to hold the lens from underneath as they had done with an SLR, allowing the fingers of their left hand to block the small rangefinder window. (They notice their hand when it blocks the main viewfinder window, but if they are not familiar with rangefinder function, blocking the small window can be a subtle error.)

 

And of course, keep both windows clean to keep viewing contrast high.

 

--HC

[c6gowin]

There is a good collection of focusing tips here. Thank you all. I have discovered some of these methods already by trial and error, but have picked up some new things to try in addition to practice.

 

Gowin (too many Mark's on this board)

[trs]

I think when I add some of the workflow and mothods provided here and keep practicing, I will be much better at it. I have been practicing a lot around the house (even while watching TV) every evening.

 

Thank you all for sharing your tips and tricks. Now I need to go find where that rangefinder window is. I thought viewfinder was the only window. And yes, some time I do notice my finger in the view finder, too.

 

thanks.

-tanka

[ed_oneal]

Gowin (too many Mark's on this board)

 

 

We have two friends in business with each other, both named Mark. We call them Mark and ReMark.