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Hunter in Training


telyt

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A Great Horned Owl fledgeling munches on a Snowshoe Hare brought by one of its parents. Technical stuff: Leicaflex SL2, 280mm f/4 APO-Telyt-R, shoulder stock & monopod, Provia 400F.

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Doug

 

He's a lovely subject with superb eyes - he fills the frame so well I would have loved to see the photo slightly bigger, ie. right up to the 960 limit - as that would have really shown him and the quality of the shot.

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Ditto super...Doug...I just ruined my last Telephoto session with the New R8..exposure is right on but the split screen ..focusing srceen gives no inication of the "actual focal point" over 100 images lost and well a long trip to get there not including time..any suggestions?

 

Thanks for sharing...

 

Just email me..

 

Cheers, JRM

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Ilan, my technique varies wildly. Sometimes I find a good location, approach carefully and over the course of a few months I'll gain the birds' confidence to allow photos within range of the 280 (the more recent Cooper's Hawk photos for example). Other times, such as this one, I just stumble onto the opportunity. For this photo I was just out taking a walk when I heard then saw the owlet feasting on the hare. The hare kept the owlet busy enough that it didn't mind me.

 

John, I don't use the split-image focussing aid, ever. I use the matte portion of the viewscreen instead. I even had Don Goldberg remove the split-image viewscreen from my black SL2 (was: Peter Werner's) and replace it with an SL-type screen. I've ordered a Brightscreen viewfinder magnifier for the R8, and will probably get a Brightscreen "Proscreen", which has a larger microprism area.

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Alright ..I ordered the "crosshairs with "clear glass"....I went to Bright Screen...the only one looking worthwhile was the " clear matte"..about $ 299.00 US

 

Thanks Doug... I will email you about more specifics....

 

Cheers, JRM

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William..there are about 8 or so to choose from. But the R8 like the SL2 comes with a stupid "split screen" by default...truely 100% useless and on my part expensive and wasteful.

I might have to go back up next week and will most likely use the old Leicaflex SL and the 560mm Telyt..

 

Cheers, JRM

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For those of us who use an R8 with the standard screen, but don't shoot with long or macro lenses, any advice guys? Given that most of my shots are with the 28, focusing is not hypercritical as it is for you longsters. ;)

 

On my OM2, I swapped the split-screen for the micro-prism one very soon after it was given to me, but hadn't considered doing so on the R8.

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Some folks don't like the split prism type of viewfinder. With small aperture lenses and telephotos, sometimes one of the prisms goes black and you can't focus easily.

 

I tend to use the micro-prism area around the split screen section more than the split, so a larger micro-prism would be the way forward for me. But, at £300 a pop, they are an incredible amount of money...

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O right, silly me. I forgot about the blacking out. It happens to me too, but then I think I would have difficulty if I didn't have such a focusing aid.

 

Thanks Andy.

 

Best,

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Re: split-image focussing aids, it's not only that it blacks out, it's also because it makes an important part of the viewscreen useless for focussing (and makes the microprism area small and equally useless). With an active subject - and by this I include a bird preening, vocalizing, or even just turning its head frequently - I need to be able to use the entire screen surface for focussing because the bird's eye can be anywhere on the screen and they move quickly enough and often enough that there's no time for the focus - re-compose - click technique.

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As always, nice shot Doug. I agree wholeheartedly with you on the topic of cluttering the focus screen. So far, I've found the Leica ground glass screen with the grid pattern etched in to be my favorite for use with the R9/DMR combination. It gives me the clarity I'm looking for and the ability to focus where I need to focus.

 

As far as color goes, (someone had commented on the color differences of your DMR shots in a different thread) a lot of which software to use and how much saturation to use is quite subjective....we all see things in our own way. That's why so many film choices made it to market. Continue to do what suits you best. :)

 

Lately, I've been gravitating back to using Flex (I've been using the 4.6PC beta). I have noticed, however, that my images tend to be a bit flatter than when I use C1. Since I like the white balance and contrast levels I get with the Auto button in Flex, I've simply been boosting the color saturation up a bit (15-25) to a level that I perceive as making the image a bit richer.

 

Kurt

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