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Zeica 21/2.8


jaapv

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Just to report: I ordered a 28 mm mounting ring for my Zeiss Biogon 2.8 , had a precision machine shop make the indentations for coding, exchanged the mounts and filled the indentations with white and black model paint. That works perfectly: The camera is now convinced I have Elmarit 21/2.8 mounted. The only snag is that there is a screw across the second and third bar, but I filled the whole screwrecess with white paint, which works.

Now`- where is 1.10 - and the Leica IR filter 46 mm???

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Jaap - This sounds encouraging as I plan to get the Zeiss18 mm when it is released. I have not handled a ZM lens and am having to imagine it's layout, so the lens mount is screw fitted to the lens? Any possibility of posting a close-up of your solution?

 

.................Chris

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Will do. The mounts of the 21 through 35 are interchangable, so it might be so on the 18 as well. You'd have to find out what famelines the WATE brings up and check the 18, to see if the mount needs to be exchanged at all .If you code it to the WATE specs you would be set.

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Jaap - I understand the WATE code as all white except the second dot from the left which is black [that's clockwise as you look at the coding on the lens mount]. With regard to the screw positions, do you think coding a Zeiss as a WATE is feasible?

 

.................Chris

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Guest tummydoc

The question I would have is, will whatever cyan corrections Leica has programmed for the 21mm Elmarit whose code you've emulated be optimal for the Zeiss as well? If the cyan is the same for all lenses with the same FOV then you're fine; otherwise if too little or too much correction is applied you'll need to correct it in post-processing. At the very least you'll have the lens ID in EXIF so you can batch them together for a PS action with Panotools. I have a lot of lenses I'd like to code, but unfortunately some of them (like my 35 Summilux ASPHERICAL) I have no intention of mucking with the flange and devaluing the lens.

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I ordered it with Zeiss. I don't recall the exact price, but it was far below 100 Euro. 26 Euro as I recall.

After the operation I checked focus. It was spot on . It appears Zeiss has very tight tolerances.

 

As for the corrections. All experts say that as far as cyan vignetting goes, lenses of similar specifications are close. Sean Reid has written on that. I think that coding to the nearest equivalent Leica lens will be fine. I don't quite see how coding a lens, especially something like the Summilux 35 asph would devalue it, as Leica sells it coded now. As for the Zeiss lens, I can always screw the original mounting ring back on.

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Guest tummydoc

Lenses of the same FOV may be close in terms of the cyan drift, and if that's all the camera corrects then you should be fine. However, all the various 21mm lenses fitable to the M8 are not similar in their light falloff characteristics, so if the camera corrects for those at the same time there could be a significant problem using closest substitutes. Time shall tell.

 

The 35 Summilux ASPHERICAL is not the same lens as the current-production ASPH. It is a pricey low-production collectors item and drilling coding wells into the rear mount would certainly affect its value in a negative way at least in the present collector market. Time shall tell on that one too :confused:

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According to Sean Reid's liberally illustrated test there is very little difference between different brands of similar specified lenses, especially the Zeiss and Leica offerings. Coding to that effect will be sufficient for in camera correction. But only 1.10 will tell, as you say.

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Jaap - Thank you for posting the lens code illustration, that helps me a lot. I had become overly concerned about the inconveniently placed screw, believing that some lens codes could not be set. Seeing the flange screw sitting low in it's countersunk hole, it's now obvious that all lens codes can be recorded using your prescribed method. Thanks.

 

.............................Chris

 

PS I recall Sean trying to remove [Zeiss?] screws and having difficulty, I believe he suggested they might be set in place with Locktite. Was removal a struggle?

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Zeiss screws are indeed fixed by a dollop of Loctite that is official Zeiss spec. Zeiss themselves advise tempering the lens (mount?) to a certain temperature before removing, without specifiing the temperature. I would not recommend this, as Locktite (both types) has a breakup temperature of 150 degrees C and a significant lessening of bonding strength from 100 dg C upwards. Not temperatures I would subject a lens to.

My camera-repair man, Wil van Manen advises a mini-drop of acetone, turn the screw slightly clockwise (tighter) before removing.That works, but use a fitting screwdriver, as it may take some force. As it was I ordered four spare screws with Zeiss, but did not need them.They are only 50 Eurocent apiece anyway. Of course it is simplest to let the workshop remove the mount. They have the tools and the expertise.

 

Ordering information:

melanie.muller [@] zeiss.de

 

 

 

Screw BBA 215 H 408 -Cosina- 05 000000-1460-876

4pcs

 

 

 

Mount 28 mm ZM 10 000000-0239-500

1 pc

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That is correct Guy. It is a 21 mm lens. However Zeiss brings up the 50 mm framelines, and Leica 21 mm lenses the 28 mm frames.

The M8 needs both the code and the right mount to recognize the lens (or a 21 at any rate) so the mount must be changed to the 28 mount and coded as 21.

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Guest guy_mancuso

Hmmm you should be fine on the code or code the WATE in, the framelines though your pretty much the full viewfinder anyway so the framelines have no effect visually and only would affect the code but I would not worry about that though:)

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