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Epson scan software options


drums1977

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Hi everyone!

 

After my new adventure in the world of film development I'm shooting more film than usual and so, scaning a lot more. I use an epson V700 and Epson software (as some of you guys). I was wondering how do you normally set up the different options, specially when working in BW. Colour or BW? 24 or 48 bits? Do you normally modify the preset histograms? etc...

 

I can't remember right now the options I use, I'll post them when I get home...

 

Thanks!

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Hi everyone!

 

After my new adventure in the world of film development I'm shooting more film than usual and so, scaning a lot more. I use an epson V700 and Epson software (as some of you guys). I was wondering how do you normally set up the different options, specially when working in BW. Colour or BW? 24 or 48 bits? Do you normally modify the preset histograms? etc...

 

I can't remember right now the options I use, I'll post them when I get home...

 

Thanks!

I work under 8 bites and 800 dpi for posting on web and more dpi if i want to print

an exemple

R8 Ilford FP4

please note the nuance of grey and black

photo uncorrected : no PS or LR

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One question: Any reason for using 8 bits scans?

 

In general, I scan all the usable frames in the roll at a medium resolution (1200 dpi), colour and 24 bits. I normally check the USM box too. If any of the shots is one of the "nicest" ones, I scan at higher resolution (2400 or higher). I always save as TIFF, and after dust/dirt/scratch removal (no further modifications) I use that file as a "raw" file that I keep untouched. Every further modificated file (croping, contrast, curves, file format, etc etc) is saved separately.

 

When scanning, one of my main doubts come when using the histograms. I've often read that before scanning, you should set up the histogram so it covers the whole "surface" of the tonal range of the image to scan. I've noticed that by doing so I usually get "greyer" images that need more PS adjustment than using the default epson histogram settings (which normally don't get the whole histogram values). Do the manually set images look worst but are, somehow, "richer" in tonal information?

 

As you can see, I'm quite lost...:(

 

Thanks in advance!

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Use 16bit if you can. The histogram issue is harder to give advice about. My scans almost always look grey and flat, but pop when a curve is applied in PS. The most important thing is to avoid clipping highlights and shadows. Try and see what works best for your workflow.

 

I'd switch USM off in the scanning software and use PS for that as the final step before output.

 

Don't want to add to your confusion, but check out Vuescan, it supports your scanner and is fantastic at digging details out of negs. Be prepaired for a user interface with a few challenges thouggh.

 

Carl

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One question: Any reason for using 8 bits scans?

In general, I scan all the usable frames in the roll at a medium resolution (1200 dpi), colour and 24 bits. I normally check the USM box too. If any of the shots is one of the "nicest" ones, I scan at higher resolution (2400 or higher). I always save as TIFF, and after dust/dirt/scratch removal (no further modifications) I use that file as a "raw" file that I keep untouched. Every further modificated file (croping, contrast, curves, file format, etc etc) is saved separately.

 

When scanning, one of my main doubts come when using the histograms. I've often read that before scanning, you should set up the histogram so it covers the whole "surface" of the tonal range of the image to scan. I've noticed that by doing so I usually get "greyer" images that need more PS adjustment than using the default epson histogram settings (which normally don't get the whole histogram values). Do the manually set images look worst but are, somehow, "richer" in tonal information?

 

As you can see, I'm quite lost...:(

 

Thanks in advance!

Drums,

Forget to reply you....

I make as you as I said , 24 bits for colour, 1200 dpi or more according to the use, scan in TIFF, agreed with you to save separately

 

"Do the manually set images look worst but are, somehow, "richer" in tonal information? "

 

I use not much the PS in fact because i really like a "natural" photo (importance in the choice of a good color film as Fuji superia or Velvia , Kodak Portra or Ektar.... ) i think it's already richer in tonal information according to me

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Use 16bit if you can. The histogram issue is harder to give advice about. My scans almost always look grey and flat, but pop when a curve is applied in PS. The most important thing is to avoid clipping highlights and shadows. Try and see what works best for your workflow.

 

I'd switch USM off in the scanning software and use PS for that as the final step before output.

 

Don't want to add to your confusion, but check out Vuescan, it supports your scanner and is fantastic at digging details out of negs. Be prepaired for a user interface with a few challenges thouggh.

 

Carl

 

Thank you to all of you for your answers. About the histograms I'm afraid I must have been making a mistake in the past by trying to get a better looking image directly from the scanning by clipping off some of the tonal information to improve the contrast of the image... As I have read and according to what you suggest, it is better to scan the whole thing even if the image looks grey and flat and THEN adjust contrast, gamma, density, etc in PS, is that correct?

 

BTW, I am so impressed by the texture of the images my M6 gets. It is my first experience with Leica and I'm almost overwhelmed. My previous 35mm camera was Nikon 601M with an average 28mm lens, but man, this Leica thing is a different story... What's with this camera??:D

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