TriX Alternative at 100?

[mhulbert]

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So I am one of those sold fully on the idea that Tri-X is a super all round film (I just gave the new TMax 400 a run for its money with 10 rolls or so and . . . ick).

 

BUT, my view about TriX was formulated living in northern Europe and NYC, each with have cloudy days more than sunny and are places with loads of low light shooting needs.

 

Now, however, I live in LA, where almost every day has bright sunshine (and -- more intangibly -- it is more of a "day" city than a "night" city, as far as the culture goes).

 

Tri-X is still great here, but leaves me with a lot less creative flexibility vis a vis DOF as I am so stopped down most of the time.

 

So -- what do you recommend that is rated 100 or thereabouts -- for a hard core TriX lover?

 

I know I could use a ND filter, but would rather not.

 

Tried TMax 100 and don't like it at all. Thinking of giving FP4 another shot but not had good experiences in the past. Now trying Delta, which I will soup in DDX. What do you think?

[stunsworth]

FP4 and Tri-X were my two standard films. Both developed in Xtol. I'd give FP4 another try.

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[Guest wls.shanghai]

Fuji ACROS 100 and FP4 with ID11 and you will be happy ....maybe

 

 

wls

[kenneth]

Have you tried Agfapan 100. I have used it on occasions and found it to be very good. Comments on Agfapan 100 "AGFA APX 100

 

The advantage of the 100 is its flexibility in exposure latitude; an unusual extra layer in the film prevents unwanted halation and yields improved sharpness.

[andybarton]

I use Delta 100 in DDX and it's a great combination, IMHO

[stunsworth]

Have you tried Agfapan 100

 

Is it still available?

[earleygallery]

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I've always liked FP4 - worth trying out a roll at least.

[JPHILIPPE]

For me it's PlusX 125, very good film and Tx400, with D76 .

[tgray]

I really like Plus-X. I've heard good things about FP4, but Plus-X does the trick for me. Or as you said, get a 2 or 3 stop ND filter.

[MPerson]

Plus-X, APX 100 or Adox/Efke CHS ART 25, 50 or 100.

[Pangur Ban]

I don't know of bad films from the major producers so best to try all of them from Ilford, Kodak, Fuji and Adox at the least, also Foma, Rollei and any Agfa you can get hold of.

 

I don't know if any of them will give you the Tri-X look you're after though - you'll have to experiment with various combinations.

 

I personally much prefer slower speed films to higher speed ones but have real difficulty in picking a favorite or sticking to one as I like them all.

[Guest Bastian A.]

I also prefer Tri-X but in summer I often need an alternative, too. This alternative is an ND8 filter or Kodak Plus-X. A grey filter has the advantage that you can remove it in indoor situations etc. when you need the full speed of your Tri-X.

[kenneth]

Is it still available?

 

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[Dan States]

I shoot tri-x and especially the new Tmax 400 at 100 all the time. If you are scanning the negs are ideal and if you are wet printing you will have shadow detail up the wazoo, which is exactly what you need in bright sun.

 

Start with a test roll developed in D76 for 35% less time than if you were shooting at 320-400. You will be surprised how good it will all look and you will keep the great looking bite of Tri-x.

 

Best wishes

Dan

[NB23]

Geez! The Op must be more confused then ever.

So many opinions.

It's like when forum members have to counsel a member about a lens purchase. A flood of comments about Voigtlander lenses wants us to believe they are the best lenses on earth, until we realize that people simply recommend what they use and not what would or should objectively be named, unfortunately. This is why I am very careful when asking for comments on a forum.

 

To the OP: Simply expose Tri-X to 200 and cut development time by about 25% and you'll be a happy man. Expose it at 100 (as I've done many times) and use HC110 and use dilution H with Dilution B times. Good results.

 

Now if you want a native 100 iso film that looks like Tri-X rated at 400, then APX100 is a safe bet because of its grain and overall tonality. That film can be mistaken for a 400 film.

[mindlessdocumentation]

Delta 100 is a very sharp film with a nice grain and good contrast. Not that it really relates to Tri-X (a 400 film I'd be comfortable taking to a war), but I'd highly recommend it for a good 100 ISO.

[batmobile]

unless you develop tyhe APX100 in Xtol or DDX in which case it is very fine grained.

 

I agree APX100 is a simlar look, but it is now dead. Foma 100 might be a good bet as many say it is like APX100 (which looks rather like TriX) so worth a try. FP4 is a great film but has a different look. more tonal, less hard looking.

[mhulbert]

Well, there is a lot to digest here. Thanks for all the replies!

 

I am going to try several of these suggestions.

 

This weekend I shot with the Delta 100 for the first time and developed it this evening in DDX and here are a few shots from the couple test rolls. Pretty pleased with it.

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[stunsworth]

Now if you want a native 100 iso film that looks like Tri-X rated at 400, then APX100 is a safe bet because of its grain and overall tonality. That film can be mistaken for a 400 film.

 

That's not been my experience with the film developed in Xtol. I took a lot of the film on a trip to Greece a few years ago, and if anything, based on the negatives from that trip, I'd say it was fine grained.

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[MattLain]

I can imagine agfa apx 100 or its replacement rollei retro 100 looking very good in full L.A sun. Acros, Efke, Fomapan, Maco and Adox films might be worth a look too, but out of the six mentioned so far Acros has the most modern fingerprint, APX/RR100 coming in second.

 

I guess the closest thing would actually be Plus-X wouldn't it? I don't like it personally though.

 

Ilford Delta films will look similar to t-max as they're both tabular. As with most Ilford films they make any day look like an English rainy day, unless pushed.