Souping Neopan

[roguewave]

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On the advise of Jeff, I bought a brick of Neopan and shot some myself. Both 400 & 1600. I also gave almost half of the brick to local Harlem photographers to use at night in a small project.

 

Collectively, my fellow film shooters Uptown use D76, as TriX is the most common film they feed their Nikon F1's, a few M3's and assorted Japanese oldies.

 

Has anyone souped Neopan 400 & 1600 in D76? If so, can you make any recommendations. We are getting ready to develop & print and any pointers would be warmly recieved and my gratitude forthcoming. These guys are VERY old fashioned. As always, thanks in advance. Ben

[DavidStone]

On the advise of Jeff, I bought a brick of Neopan and shot some myself. Both 400 & 1600. I also gave almost half of the brick to local Harlem photographers to use at night in a small project.

 

Collectively, my fellow film shooters Uptown use D76, as TriX is the most common film they feed their Nikon F1's, a few M3's and assorted Japanese oldies.

 

Has anyone souped Neopan 400 & 1600 in D76? If so, can you make any recommendations. We are getting ready to develop & print and any pointers would be warmly recieved and my gratitude forthcoming. These guys are VERY old fashioned. As always, thanks in advance. Ben

 

Good on yer, fellers. There are definite signs of a kind of "post-modern revival" - a realisation that film is "different" in a smooth, bland digital world. And the only way that those wonderful old cameras can be used, of course.

 

But how will you be printing? To be seriously old-fashioned you will need a darkroom. Bromide prints (quite apart from the wonderful smell as you open a pack of paper) will give you the real look and feel of the genuine article. Scanning, I have found, tends to lose the character of the grain in a negative. And you must have grain, the real McCoy.

 

On developing - there are lots of books on this subject, probably available for peanuts now. You can also make up your own juice too. But you'll get lots of advice here as well.

 

And I hope you have a well-thumbed copy of "Bystanders" (Westerbeck & Meyerowitz) to pass around.

 

Have fun,

David

[francofile]

Hi Ben

 

I have experimented with Neopan 400 and found that, for me, Rodinal 1:50 at 20 C for 11 minutes ( minimum agitation) gives a nice result. The image below was shot at 1/15th f2.00 with a M7 and Summicron 40mm.

 

The image is slightly cropped.

 

Hope this helps

 

Andrew

[MattLain]

I used to use neopan 1600 in D-76 for a few years before switching to rodinal. But I just love the grain too much to use a fine grain dev. In both cases it should first be overexposed generously, so shooting more like its an 800 film. during development (20 C) add a minute to any recommended dev time and only agitate by one inversion once a minute. Otherwise (especially shooting at night) you won't have any shadow detail, all dark areas will be black. That works for me anyway, you may have to experiment with a few variables from roll to roll to get it perfect.

[tgray]

Remember that Neopan 1600 is really an ISO 640ish film, so exposing it at 800 isn't overexposure.

[jplomley]

Ben,

 

This looks promising:

 

Neopan 400 in D76 - Photography & Digital Camera Forums

 

Cheers,

[jplomley]

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This looks equally beneficial:

 

Help with Fuji Neopan 400 - Photo.net B&W Photo - Film & Processing Forum

 

Let me know how it turns out Ben. I'm enjoying all of your great film postings of late.

[roguewave]

Jeff, thanks. I read all the pdf's from Fuji on both films. The comments from the posts in both links square with the recommended development times in the pdf's using D76. I need to conform with to the habits these guys have shared for over 30-40 years of shooting, while bringing in some new films, particularly faster films. The guys Uptown love film.