Question about R4 in extremely cold condition

[Leicalsf]

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I'm planning a photgraphic trip to the Arctic in Northern Canada, and feeling the need for adding one more R camera body as back up for my R8, and this camera body has to be not too expensive.

For now, my first choice is R6, its fully manual and would not be affect by cold weather ; however, i find that R4 is much easier to find and much cheaper. So here are a few questions about R4, for R4 users or pre-owners.

1. How does it work under extremely cold weather, such as what i will encounter in Arctic.

2. Is there any famous flaws in this model.

3. how's the accuracy of its light metering.

4. Feedback on its different operating mode.

5. If i am to purchase a R4, is there any thing in particular that i should be aware of/possible problems i should look for?

 

Your answers will be appreciated, have a good day.

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[hm1912]

I used to have an R4, although I never used it in such harsh conditions. I have some recollection that R4's unders a particular serial number were prone to electronic malfunctions and I believe that a few people in this forum have experienced such problems. I never did, however. I did take it skiing once to Silver Star in the interior of BC. The coldest I probably took it out was -10. It worked fine. I put it in a ziplock bag before I came indoors so that condensation would build up on the bag and not the camera. I also found the metering system to work fine. I would use spot metering, and then take a reading of my hand.

[Guest rubidium]

I have owned and used an R4 for nearly 23 years now - without a hitch. To highlight temperature extremes experienced during that time, I did one month-long stint in the fjords of Norway (above the artic circle) during winter and 2-years-worth of heavy use in the California Mojave Desert - again, all without a hitch. The same holds true for the Motor Drive-R that I generally had attached to it. I almost exclusively shoot in aperature priority mode (about 75% of that time using spot metering) and never had a complaint about metering with the R4. My only suggestion about buying one is to check out the foam seals on the camera back (i.e. those that seal around the perimeter of the back and the small window behind the film cannister.) With age, they can get either gummy or dried out, and the resulting loss of pliancy can allow light leaks in these areas. Also, inquire about the last time a CLA was performed. Old lube in extremely cold environments is not a particularly attractive recipe for reliability.

Good luck,

Jim

[telyt]

A serial number above 1,580,000 is the best bet for a trouble-free R4 however many R4 bodies below that serial number work flawlessly.

[garyp]

No connection to me, just an FYI for Ryan:

There's a ''cold weather power pack'' for R cameras on eBay, ends in a couple of hours.

[Dan States]

My early R4 was ok at normal temps, but became very erratic at cold temperatures. It would often suddenly fire on its own, or fail to meter correctly. In general the early R4's were pretty crappy, so if you can afford a later model or better yet an R5 or later you would be well served.

 

Best wishes

Dan

[dkCambridgeshire]

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Have you considered using an R4S or R4S Model2 ?? No program modes thus likely to be less electronics to go wrong .. and probably cheaper than an R4 .

 

Dunk

[joebt]

My R4 is unreliable at best. Sometimes it gives me a shutter speed that is accurate and sometimes it is way off the mark. I have to shoot in full manual mode if I want to use it. It mostly sits on my shelf now. The serial number is in the trouble reported area. Not only are the electronics helter skelter, but it also has/had a light leak, which I fixed by placing electrical tape over the film window. Other than those two major problems it still works. I just have to shoot in full manual mode using a hand held light meter to set exposure.

[hgdddr]

I've used a R6.2 for 6 yrs and it presented no problem (esp. to the shutter and meter), even in Beijing's -10 deg C. However, the mechanicals of my R50/2 and 180/2.8 lenses become quite sticky.

[Guest user8952]

I wouldn't consider an R4 as a back-up. It's much more likely, that the back-up will fail than the R8. To label the R4 as "reliable" would be rather brave.

 

Use an RE or R5, both are very good cameras.

[earleygallery]

How about an R3? Even cheaper to find than an R4 (although I've noticed lately that very good examples are commanding very good prices) and mechanical 1/90 shutter speed if all else fails.

[andybarton]

I have been using an R4 as a backup recently and I get much better results using full manual and a hand held meter too.

 

I am not sure where the problem lies, given that mine is post the problem numbers, but the meter isn't the best, in my experience. Certainly not a patch on the meter in my OM2 of a similar vintage.

 

The film take up spool is a little quirky too - apparently, break it and the camera is toast, since it has to be completely rebuilt to replace the fragile-looking plastic component. This would, of course, be uneconomic on a camera that costs only a couple of hundred quid.

 

So, I use mine for emergencies only, and now my R8 is back, I shall remove the battery from the R4 and leave it on the shelf.

[telyt]

Have you considered using an R4S or R4S Model2 ?? No program modes thus likely to be less electronics to go wrong .. and probably cheaper than an R4 .

 

Dunk

 

All R4s and R4s Model 2 (R4s Model P in North America) are in the 'safe' s/n range. My R4s and R4sP bodies have worked flawlessly with periodic CLA. Because of the R4's tarnished reputation the R4s and especially R4sP are often priced higher than the R4. My R4 (s/n 1,58x,xxx) works prefectly.

[andrlik_mischa]

what ever you use (camera),

also take a little light-meter with you. keep it inside under

the anorak, where it is not to cold. if you have any problems

with the camera, choose the m-mode and take the

values for time and ...(blende) from the light-meter.

 

greetings - mischa

[andrlik_mischa]

oh - i forgot - the r6 will work also without batteries

or if the batteries don´t work. so i would take the r6.

[telyt]

what ever you use (camera),

also take a little light-meter with you. keep it inside under

the anorak, where it is not to cold. if you have any problems

with the camera, choose the m-mode and take the

values for time and ...(blende) from the light-meter.

 

Good advice, as long as the camera shutter speed timing isn't electronic. If the camera's meter quits from the cold, the electronic shutter will too.

[Leicalsf]

Thanks everyone!!! for your great advice!!!

After read through all your commons, i think i would go by my origional plan... R6...and i would also remember to bring a light meter with me. thanks!!