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Telyt 560/400 6.8 question


rafael_macia

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I have both the 400 and the 560 6.8 Telyt lenses with the shoulder brace and grip. The grip has a hole running through it near the top. I looks to be where a trigger would fit.

My question is; Is there some kind of trigger/cable release affair used on these lenses, which runs from the grip up to the camera? As it is, it looks like the camera is fired from the shutter release on the camera body. The instruction sheet that came with the lens showed no trigger, nor cable release setup

I have a Viso 111,which at first, I thought to use with the Telyts). The 560 (unused condition) came with a rear tube to use it on an R. The 400 came with a Viso rear tube.So both options are open. to me for using the lenses. On my MP with a Viso, or pick up an R (which I have never owned, nor used,) and enjoy ease of metering etc .....

Any ideas??

thanks!

 

Rafael

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Rafael,

 

If I remeber correctly, there was an electric release that fit into the grip, but am not certain. I am sure that you will get a more qualified reply from Doug Herr.

 

I would go with the SLR option, specifically an older SL or SL2. Both have superb finders, particularly when used with telephoto lenses.

 

Good luck,

 

Jan

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Can an R8 be used with the 560 Telyt? Are there mount problems?

 

The Telyt 400mm/560mm are pre-set aperture lenses, with no mechanical coupling between the diaphragm mechanism and the body. All Leica R, as well as Leicaflex bodies can be used without restrictions.

 

Jan

 

P.S. Where is Doug when we need him?

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For the Leicaflex SL it was simply a manual trigger release, later with the MOT versions and the later R series it became an electronic cable release. Every once and awhile you'll see the whole kit, shoulder stock, both lenses, cable release, box all sold together as a set. The whole concept was that once you "customized" the shoulder stock you used the pistol grip like a gun with a trigger, this enabled you to keep your attention on the focus and meter issues while you shoot. I always recommend that you find the best "viewfinder" and the best "tripod setup" to avoid "motion blurr". That is the slightest movement of the lens or body no matter how well you've focused will come out blurred. If your using the R8 or 9, you will have to set it on Manual, and use "stop down " metering.

Don't be afraid to experiment and make sure your subject is well illuminated.

 

Regards, Leicamann

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For the Leicaflex SL it was simply a manual trigger release, later with the MOT versions and the later R series it became an electronic cable release. Every once and awhile you'll see the whole kit, shoulder stock, both lenses, cable release, box all sold together as a set. The whole concept was that once you "customized" the shoulder stock you used the pistol grip like a gun with a trigger, this enabled you to keep your attention on the focus and meter issues while you shoot. I always recommend that you find the best "viewfinder" and the best "tripod setup" to avoid "motion blurr". That is the slightest movement of the lens or body no matter how well you've focused will come out blurred. If your using the R8 or 9, you will have to set it on Manual, and use "stop down " metering.

Don't be afraid to experiment and make sure your subject is well illuminated.

 

Regards, Leicamann

I used the electronic release with the shoulder stock for both the 400/6.8 and the 560. My bodies were R4 with the motor drive and grip. The 400 had a nice balance and the shoulder stock provided much improved stability. The 560 is too long to reasonably handhold...I would use a monopod. Your next challenge is the screen with a 6.8 aperture the microprism will darken making focusing difficult. You need a body with an interchangable screen so that you can use the ground glass screen. It will appear a little darker but snaps into focus better.
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Dear Rafael,

we were in touch sometime ago about a leicavit...

I use 400 & 560 with my R8 with a uniform groundglass screen ref : 14344 like in the visoflex one

with the shoulder stock :

I own the 3 model but the Universal one is the best for me ref. 14239 and I use the electric shutter on the winder base ref . 14254 (30cm 1' long) you can use a 50cm standard shutter release there is a hole in the grip to secure it.

best to use a monopod at least)with the 560, focusing is not so easy with the "pump" system.

using a R8(9) you can go up to 1/8000s with High speed film

good luck

jc

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Dear Rafael,

we were in touch sometime ago about a leicavit...

I use 400 & 560 with my R8 with a uniform groundglass screen ref : 14344 like in the visoflex one

with the shoulder stock :

I own the 3 model but the Universal one is the best for me ref. 14239 and I use the electric shutter on the winder base ref . 14254 (30cm 1' long) you can use a 50cm standard shutter release there is a hole in the grip to secure it.

best to use a monopod at least)with the 560, focusing is not so easy with the "pump" system.

using a R8(9) you can go up to 1/8000s with High speed film

good luck

jc

 

Hello again,

When you say "the three model" are you describing a type of grip?

 

I have yet to decide what type of body to use with the Telyts. I looked today at various R models. Still undecided. I may just attempt to use the Viso 111 with the MP.

The Viso seems like it would be slow to use with the metering drawback, or the manditory hand meter use. The idea of automation is attractive .... anyway,

 

Thanks to all for all suggestions and help!

 

(if anyone has a suggestion for which body to use it is most welcome)

 

RM

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Hello again,I have yet to decide what type of body to use with the Telyts.

 

Leicaflex SL. Its viewfinder is much better than any of the R-series bodies for manual focus with these slower lenses and better than the SL2 (IMHO) because the shutter speed display at the bottom of the viewfinder is better-illuminated.

 

spydrxx is correct, I'm not home right now and maybe for another week so my computer access is sporadic at best. There are dozens of examples of what these lenses can do on my website (URL below).

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Hi Doug,

 

Thanks for your advice.I will look then for an SL. I had just been put off because of the battery issues. I was told by some that both alkaline and silver substitutes would give incorrect readings, and that the meters had to be recomputed. Others people told me Wein put out batteries which worked fine.

 

Anyway, SL it is then.

 

best

 

Rafael

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The electric release connects to a winder or motor drive R4 up to R7, maybe 8 and 9. It does not couple with the camera shutter release.

 

With a mechanical release, you need to release your right hand, cock the shutter, go back to the handle/release while holding the lens with your left. This is a pain.

 

Focus is better with the SL, but a plain matt screen in a R body is acceptable.

 

There might be a way to connect the electric release to SL+motor, but this is old equipment, expensive if good, worn if not.

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I am beginning to move away from an SL. I just looked at one which had been freshly "serviced"(by a very competent Leica repair person); The meter cell upgraded, the battery compartment upgraded, (exactly how, I am not sure ), a metal lens release button, instead of the plastic one, and a metal wind spool. It was explained to me these four upgrades to correct design flaws, were routinely done in the 70's by Leica. The plastic lens mount button would break off, making lens removal nearly impossible as would the wind spool, which was originally plastic in the SL. The meter cell was also routinely upgraded by Leica. The upgraded one has ridges on the surface. The original cell has a kind of "cross" rather than a ridged surface , and the battery case was also upgraded

..... anyway ..... all of these normal/necessary "upgrades" cost about $400 today .....the parts alone cost over $200.

 

Any SL I found on the used market, would probably need so much .....

 

Does this sound right?

 

I am thinking now of an R4 or an R6.2...... or perish the thought..... a NIKON f100 with a Gandy/Camera quest adapter.

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If you get an SL that needs a CLA and you have all these upgrades done to it you will have a camera body that will last for a lifetime. I've purchased SL bodies in good working condition for as little as US$200, none of my SL bodies has a metal take-up spool, and re-calibrating the meter for 1.5-volt silver-oxide cells isn't difficult.

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