Julian Thompson Posted October 25, 2009 Share #1 Posted October 25, 2009 Advertisement (gone after registration) Not sure if this will help anyone but I thought I'd share it in case it does! Recently I was advised by Brett to always return the camera to infinity setting after a shot so that you're only turning one way to focus. I've read this on here before but never done it. Brett demonstrated how you can estimate the distance to target and get to learn how much to move the lens to get 80% of the focussing done as you bring the camera to your eye. This is very helpful and it has speeded up my shooting a lot; object a fair way off = only a tiny touch of twist. Object four feet away - twist the lens so the tab points down. Object right on my nose - crank the thing madly as you lift the camera! Anyway that was very helpful and it got me to visualise the fact that as you twist from infinity on the lens you are bringing things into focus FROM THE BACK. So if you lift the camera to your eye now and look at someone's face and then twist the focus from infinity the focus point comes first to the back of their head, then through their eyes and then to their nose and then in front of their face and away... This has helped me to begin to be able to selectively focus the eyes by actually using the nose as my focus point and then backing the focus up a bit! I find that in poorer light it's easier to use a nose than a pair of eyes to actually work with. Before I really had not thought about which direction the focus was coming from but of course it's essential to know this to make life a lot easier. This brought me to another issue. How is my setup actually working? I mean, there is progression through the rangefinder so as I focus: moment 1) The object comes into sharp focus from being out of focus. moment 2) I continue to twist the focus ring and there is a tiny 'no mans land' where the object is arguably in focus in the rangefinder. moment 3) The object transitions from sharp focus to out of focus. From what I can see each camera/lens combination will behave slightly differently, with more critical assesment of behaviour required on longer lenses. I used big apertures to do my testing but it became clear that my particular 75 cron and M8 combination focusses at point 3 above. Therefore, I could adjust my roller wheel to alter this or just learn to work with it. (Since it is a loan camera from my dealer Stephens I will learn to live with it of course!) The important thing is to know, for sure, where your setup sits. It's no good straining your eyeballs off to get your subject focussed at the point of most contrast right slap bang in the middle of moment 2 above if your lens and camera actually focus best right at moment 1! I know this is probably all well covered but I have had a lot of success recently with this so felt I must share it in case it helps someone :-) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted October 25, 2009 Posted October 25, 2009 Hi Julian Thompson, Take a look here Focussing tip. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
lars_bergquist Posted October 25, 2009 Share #2 Posted October 25, 2009 You are right, this is the way you should start the shooting sequence and that is what I have been telling people. Some may even have listened. There is nothing to slow you down like fiddling helplessly with the focusing wondering which way to turn. The old man from the Age Before the M Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Julian Thompson Posted October 25, 2009 Author Share #3 Posted October 25, 2009 Ah - Lars - yes - I think it was your post I first read but was too lazy to act on it! Until I saw Brett focus so quickly in the flesh and then I realised I needed to do it!! The second part of my post has been just as much of a revalation for me though - the learning about WHERE my camera actually focuses. All good fun! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest mc_k Posted October 25, 2009 Share #4 Posted October 25, 2009 For shooting verticals I think an eye socket is easier to latch onto than a nose. For shooting horizontals I use the nose. (distance = 10 ft. or so) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest mc_k Posted October 25, 2009 Share #5 Posted October 25, 2009 Focusing from one direction only, say infinity, may get you a different result than from the other direction ("rangefinder backlash"). You can check this by shooting a ruler. You might also try not racking the focus back and forth...just click when the two images first seem to coincide. Also try a magnifier if you haven't already. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ho_co Posted October 25, 2009 Share #6 Posted October 25, 2009 Julian, Lars-- It's very helpful to keep this tactic front and center for new and practiced rangefinder users alike! Following your rule is what has always made rangefinders so fast. In the days when we had to focus SLRs, it made no difference where we started our focusing because we could see whether the screen image was getting softer or crisper. But with an SLR, once you're close, you still have to saw back and forth through the actual focus point a couple times to see where it is, because the eye isn't that detail-sensitive. With a CRF, you simply rotate (one direction only) until the images fuse. Then shoot. The eye is much more sensitive to vernier focus (lining up straight lines) than to the SLR's detail focus. With a rangefinder, don't waste time going through focus and coming back. It's obvious and it's done when the images first line up. (Assuming that your camera and lenses are properly adjusted, of course. ) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
DigiPro Posted October 26, 2009 Share #7 Posted October 26, 2009 Advertisement (gone after registration) This is a great tip, Julian. Thanks for sharing. Something so simple can be so useful. I just bought a brand new M8 and I could use all the tips I can get. I'm having alot of fun so far and keeping my fingers crossed that my camera will behave! Best rgds, Kimberly Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fotomiguel Posted October 26, 2009 Share #8 Posted October 26, 2009 There are a lot of different techniques of focusing and all of them are important depending on the situation and the lens. A quick and accurate focus needs to know the lens and had the feeling on it. So normally I use the 50mm for street photography. I know its frame and its focus and its a very versatile lens. The prefocus, while raise the camera, is important for short distance. Even shooting wide open is important to know how works the DOF. You have more depth of field behind the focus that in front. When looking for an instant or "precise moment", it's better when you look for the front focus of what you are focusing. I hope I write it well:) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bybrett Posted October 26, 2009 Share #9 Posted October 26, 2009 Hi Julian Glad to hear it's working for you, although it's reading a little more complicated than it really is...? Focus. Back to infinity. Know you lens. Cheers Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeff S Posted October 26, 2009 Share #10 Posted October 26, 2009 Some other useful tips here...http://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-forum/customer-forum/88260-focus-techniques.html Jeff Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
aesop Posted October 26, 2009 Share #11 Posted October 26, 2009 Focus. Back to infinity. Know your lens. Cheers ...best piece of advice I've heard in a long time. Understand your lens and the true impact of the hyperfocal distance markings on it. Test yourself - can you focus (and compose) without raising the camera to your eyes? No excuses - it is easier these days with digital Ms. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andybarton Posted October 26, 2009 Share #12 Posted October 26, 2009 Why is focussing easier with a digital M? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
aesop Posted October 26, 2009 Share #13 Posted October 26, 2009 Why is focussing easier with a digital M? ...I was alluding to not having to develop any film to see the results of your tests. Efficient, non? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bybrett Posted October 26, 2009 Share #14 Posted October 26, 2009 Why is focussing easier with a digital M? You get better more quickly. I did. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andybarton Posted October 26, 2009 Share #15 Posted October 26, 2009 I can concede that practice is easier, but that's not quite the same thing. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
aesop Posted October 26, 2009 Share #16 Posted October 26, 2009 You get better more quickly. I did. ...yet another value judgment. Gotta love this forum. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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