michali Posted September 19, 2009 Share #1 Posted September 19, 2009 Advertisement (gone after registration) I've used a number of super wides; 12mm C/V & WATE on my M8 and now also on the M9. Never used filters with these lenses on the M8 and lens detection was always set to "OFF", and never really had too many issues, with cyan drift on the M8. I've just returned from the Classic Yacht Regatta in Monaco with my M9 and followed Sean Reid's advice below, when using the 12mm C/V on the M9. I manually set the lens detection to 16mm. As a rule, cross coding to a longer focal length will decrease cyan drift correction whereas cross coding to a shorter focal length will increase cyan drift correction. Cheers, Sean Here are the results: #1 As it came off the camera, only post processing is converted from DNG to Jpeg in LR. #2 After applying Cornerfix and then converting from DNG to Jpeg in LR. After running pic #2 through Cornerfix the bottom left corner still shows some signs of contamination. I never tried any shots this time around with lens detection set to "OFF", I will do this tomorrow, if the weather clears up its been bucketing down rain for 2 days now. Having said that, last weekend I tried a few shots with the 12mm C/V on the M9, lens detection set to "OFF" and hardly had any red corners. Here's the link to that post: http://www.l-camera-forum.com/leica-forum/leica-m9-forum/98466-m9-super-wide-135mm-samples.html I suppose that it's a case of the M9 over compensating or over-correcting. I will also try some shots with the lens detection for the 12mm C/V set to 21mm and let's see what happens...... BYTW I've haven't encountered any such issues with the WATE on the M9. The more I use the M9 the more I'm loving it, having said that, I'll continue using my M8 as back up, still a great camera! Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/97374-cyan-drift-on-cv-12mm/?do=findComment&comment=1042386'>More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted September 19, 2009 Posted September 19, 2009 Hi michali, Take a look here Cyan drift on C/V 12mm. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
sandymc Posted September 19, 2009 Share #2 Posted September 19, 2009 Mike, Very unbalanced case of "pink corners" you have there. Re the CornerFix corrected image, could I ask (a) what version of CornerFix, and ( if its V1.2, did you have the "Bidirectional Correction" option enabled when you generated the profile? Also, have you tried the CV12 uncoded, just with CornerFix doing the corrections? Sandy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
michali Posted September 19, 2009 Author Share #3 Posted September 19, 2009 Sandy- Firstly thanks very much for Cornerfix, I downloaded it this evening for the first time. It's version 1.2 & "Bidirectional Correction" was not enabled. I tried a number of different settings in "Preferences" and followed the suggestions in your PDF guide. FYI "Luminance", "Chroma" and "Anti-alias" all set to 0, seems to give me the best result. I'm going to try shooting tomorrow with the 12mm C/V uncoded and then run it through Cornerfix, I've a feeling this will sort it out. Do you think the cause of the "unbalanced pink corners" is a case of the camera over-correcting? Regards Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandymc Posted September 20, 2009 Share #4 Posted September 20, 2009 Do you think the cause of the "unbalanced pink corners" is a case of the camera over-correcting? Yes, definitely was camera over-correction. For CornerFix, as a general rule: 1. When correcting cyan corners, Bidirectional Correction disabled (which is the default) will usually work better, but 2. when correcting "pink corners" with CornerFix, you'll almost certainly get better results if you enable Bidirectional Correction Sandy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
michali Posted September 20, 2009 Author Share #5 Posted September 20, 2009 Sandy- Thank you for the feedback, much appreciated. I'll try shooting the 12mm this morning with lens detection off and will report back later on today. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
michali Posted September 20, 2009 Author Share #6 Posted September 20, 2009 Sandy- I tried several shots today with the 12mm C/V & M9 as follows: Lens coding turned off Lens coding set to 21mm Lens coding set to 24mm I didn't bother with the 16mm lens coding setting as we both agree that the camera is over-correcting at that setting. It also appears to me from the pics below that even at the 21mm setting the camera is over correcting. I ran the pics through corner fix with the following settings: Lens profile = 12mm C/V, "Bidirectional Correction" was enabled, "Luminance", "Chroma" and "Anti-alias" were all set to 0, seems to give the best result. PIC #1= Coding off pre Cornerfix Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! PIC #2=Coding off after Cornerfix PIC #3=Coding set to 21mm pre Cornerfix PIC #4=Coding set to 21mm after Cornerfix PIC #5=Coding set to 24mm pre Cornerfix PIC #6=Coding set to 24mm after Cornerfix Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! PIC #2=Coding off after Cornerfix PIC #3=Coding set to 21mm pre Cornerfix PIC #4=Coding set to 21mm after Cornerfix PIC #5=Coding set to 24mm pre Cornerfix PIC #6=Coding set to 24mm after Cornerfix ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/97374-cyan-drift-on-cv-12mm/?do=findComment&comment=1043760'>More sharing options...
sandymc Posted September 21, 2009 Share #7 Posted September 21, 2009 Advertisement (gone after registration) Hmm, not what I'd expect. Can you send me the DNG of the image you used to create the profile - the blank wall or grey card or whatever as well as the DNG of the image you show here? You can just put it YouSendIt or whatever and PM me the link. Thanks, Sandy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
michali Posted September 21, 2009 Author Share #8 Posted September 21, 2009 Sandy- I've sent you a mail. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
EricC Posted October 4, 2009 Share #9 Posted October 4, 2009 Hello Sandy, Do you have any update with regards to the red corners and the CV 12mm as I am having similar problems? Mine is coded as a WATE and no filter fitted. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandymc Posted October 4, 2009 Share #10 Posted October 4, 2009 Eric, Not specifically on michali's situation, but CornerFix should be able to cure the red corners for you. Briefly, the process is as follows: 1. Shoot an image of a grey wall or grey card or whatever, with the lens coded as for the situation that's giving the red corners. It needs to be reasonably evenly lit. It should show the same red corners as your other images. 2. Use that image to create a profile in CornerFix - Just be sure to enable "Bidirectional Correction" when doing so, seeing as you are correcting for red corners rather than cyan corners. 3. Correct your other "red corners" images using the profile you just created. There is a more detailed set of instructions in the PDF file that comes with the CornerFix download. If you're having trouble, send me the image you created in (1) to take a look at. Sandy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
EricC Posted October 4, 2009 Share #11 Posted October 4, 2009 Hello Sandy, I followed the process in the instructions in the PDF file that comes with the CornerFix download however I am still having difficulties. I did not have a grey wall to shoot so photographed an off white wall in our conservatory that was evenly lit, and used that to create the profile. EDIT Sandy, I have just created four profiles and named each one differently, now all appears to be much better. I wonder if previously because I was testing different images to use as the profile and using the same name for each, overwriting the older version somehow it had become corrupted causing the very slight red cast i was seeing? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandymc Posted October 4, 2009 Share #12 Posted October 4, 2009 Eric, A white wall should be fine. First question would be what exactly the difficulties you are having are? But I suggest you send me the DNG of the wall to look at; you can use the "contact me" e-mail address in the PDF, or PM me, and I'll give an e-mail address. Sandy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
EricC Posted October 4, 2009 Share #13 Posted October 4, 2009 Sandy, Mail on its way. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
leicanut2 Posted October 4, 2009 Share #14 Posted October 4, 2009 I like it thank you for the post, I almost was going to sell my cv15 till I saw these pictures. Still waiting for my M9. Cheers Jan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.