borowiec Posted July 23, 2009 Share #1 Posted July 23, 2009 Advertisement (gone after registration) I've been shooting with a 28 Elmarit that I bought new in 1979, without lens coding or IR filter. This is the second generation of the 28 Elmarit. After reading numerous posts here and elsewhere claiming that it isn't sharp and that the current lenses are much sharper, I decided to do a comparison with the current 28 Elmarit-M ASPH (many thanks to Dodd Camera in Cleveland for lending me a demo lens to test). Well, the differences between the two lenses are very slight and not what I had expected: the old 28 is slightly sharper in the center than the new lens, at every aperture, while the new lens is slightly sharper at the edges. Maybe I have an exceptionally sharp version of the 2nd gen 28. At any rate, the comparison was enough to persuade me to keep using my old lens and save the expense of a new one. More dramatic was the difference in color between shots made with the IR filter on the new lens and without one on mine. Green foliage especially looks radically different: too yellow without the IR filter, too blue and over saturated with the filter. Nevertheless I decided that I should get an IR cut filter for my 28. Well, surprise surprise, it seem no-one makes one in the 48mm size, neither Leitz nor B&W, nor anyone else that I can find. Leitz does make a series VII filter (for $180!) that supposedly will fit in the lens shade for my old lens (part 125010), though I can't quite see how that works and, more problematic, the shade intrudes considerably in the viewfinder to the point that I leave it off unless absolutely needed. Is there another solution? Any suggestions would be most welcome! Andrew Borowiec Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted July 23, 2009 Posted July 23, 2009 Hi borowiec, Take a look here IR filter for 28 Elmarit w/E48 filter size?. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
jvan01 Posted July 23, 2009 Share #2 Posted July 23, 2009 Is there another solution? Any suggestions would be most welcome! Andrew Borowiec B+W makes a 48mm UV/IR cut filter. I just checked Popflash and they have this size filter available. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
borowiec Posted July 23, 2009 Author Share #3 Posted July 23, 2009 Could you send me a link or how to get in touch with Popflash (is that a store)? There was no mention of a filter in that size on Schneider/B&W's website. They have IR filters for infrared photography but don't show an IR cut filter in 48mm. Thanks! Andrew Borowiec Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ccc yyy Posted July 23, 2009 Share #4 Posted July 23, 2009 a step-up ring could be a viable option ... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jvan01 Posted July 23, 2009 Share #5 Posted July 23, 2009 B+W 48MM UV/IR CUT FILTER FOR DIGITAL BLACK NEW! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
thompsonkirk Posted July 23, 2009 Share #6 Posted July 23, 2009 It's the earliest 9-element version that was a dog with regard to sharpness. I sold one a few years ago for what seemed to me a fair price, not knowing at the time that collectors (those who don't take pictures) will pay a senseless amount for them. Kirk Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lars_bergquist Posted July 24, 2009 Share #7 Posted July 24, 2009 Advertisement (gone after registration) If you put an IR/CUT filter on it, then you must also have the lens coded. Otherwise you will have the feared cyan shift in the corners. The old man from the Age of the Screwdriver Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
borowiec Posted July 24, 2009 Author Share #8 Posted July 24, 2009 jvan01: Thanks so much -- I've ordered the filter. It's very odd that I couldn't find it on the B&W site nor at B&H or Adorama... Lars: I thought I could avoid coding if I just used CornerFix to alleviate the cyan corner problem, though I haven't tried it yet. Andrew Borowiec Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
razerx Posted August 9, 2009 Share #9 Posted August 9, 2009 I have the same lens and use a Leica Series VII uv/ir in the hood. You just put the filter inside the hood and then the hood on the lens. I got the filter with the registry of a new M8.2 and it is the same filter for the new 24/1.4 Summilux. The front element sticks out quite a bit and I have always been afraid to use B+W filters on it fearing it might just touch the lens surface. When I shot film with it I used an E48 Leitz filter and it has plenty of room the clear the lens surface. It is a great lens! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
lars_bergquist Posted August 9, 2009 Share #10 Posted August 9, 2009 Lars: I thought I could avoid coding if I just used CornerFix to alleviate the cyan corner problem, though I haven't tried it yet. Andrew Borowiec You will very soon tire of fiddling in post-production with every last picture. On the other hand, Leica do not include this lens with those they can code, i.e. by changing the bayonet, if I remember right. If this is correct, the only way of coding the lens is to (1) ascertain that the lens turns up the right 28/90 frames in the finder (which a pre-1979 lens shouldn't do, (2) pull the bayonet and send it to a machinist who knows what he is doing, like John Milich, to add the pits for the black and white paint. This may put one of the pits in alignment with a screw head, but this has nevertheless worked out fine with the Zeiss 18mm lens John did for me. But remember, the frames MUST be right for the coding to work. Removing and reinstalling the bayonet is a job that the fainthearted should leave to a competent camera mechanic. It is nevertheless a fairly straightforward job with most M lenses. Just use the right gunsmith-grade screwdriver, and remember that you may have to soften the goo that may have gone into the threads at first assembly. Acetone does usually work. Don't lose the screws! The old man from the Age of Slot-Head Screws Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
borowiec Posted August 9, 2009 Author Share #11 Posted August 9, 2009 Actually, my 2nd generation lens does turn up the right frame lines. I ascertained that before I even bought the M8, using a loaner camera from the dealer. In the end, I've been using the lens with the B&W IR filter that I bought from Popflash, but without coding, and I am quite happy with the results. Only rarely can I see the dreaded cyan cast in the corners. I suppose I will eventually get around to coding the lens. There are no screws in the flange so it should be relatively easy to do... Thanks to all for your advice! Andrew Borowiec Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ampguy Posted August 9, 2009 Share #12 Posted August 9, 2009 same here, no cyan casts, nor yellow grass with my 28s uncoded, do carry filter around but don't use unless needed for magenta issue (canon 28/2.8, and M-hex 28/2.8 Elmarit v4 pre-asph copy) Actually, my 2nd generation lens does turn up the right frame lines. I ascertained that before I even bought the M8, using a loaner camera from the dealer. In the end, I've been using the lens with the B&W IR filter that I bought from Popflash, but without coding, and I am quite happy with the results. Only rarely can I see the dreaded cyan cast in the corners. I suppose I will eventually get around to coding the lens. There are no screws in the flange so it should be relatively easy to do... Thanks to all for your advice! Andrew Borowiec Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmx_2 Posted August 10, 2009 Share #13 Posted August 10, 2009 This guy makes filters in almost any size. I've just ordered a series 5.5 filter for 78$ IR-UV Filters Joakim Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.