ammitsboel Posted June 13, 2009 Share #1 Posted June 13, 2009 Advertisement (gone after registration) Hi, Has anyone tried making adjustments to the C1 default M8 profiles? Jamie? Is it easy and is it only possible with the pro version? Best Regards Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted June 13, 2009 Posted June 13, 2009 Hi ammitsboel, Take a look here C1 profiler. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
Jamie Roberts Posted June 14, 2009 Share #2 Posted June 14, 2009 Hi Henrik! I have to admit I haven't made any changes or new profiles for the M8 in quite awhile Next on my list is my D3, then I'll get round to updating the M8's again (though by then maybe an M9 will be announced! Or maybe not--who knows?) Anyway, you can use any ICC profiling program to make a profile for your M8. However, while it's easy to make a new ICC profile with something like Eye One Match 1, it's very difficult to make a *good* one. C1 Pro also lets you easily tweak, say, the generic UV/IR profile to your own taste and then save it as a new ICC profile. Since you can see what the results are in RAW space, it's somewhat easier than profiling, say, from a a GM Color Checker. But again, it's hard to make a good one. Typically, I start with a profile in Profile Maker 5 and then tweak it in C1, with some known targets and contrast characteristics too. But as they are, the existing M8 profiles aren't all that bad, and you could easily tweak (say for more magenta in the reds) by doing TINT defaults; I'd save the profiles for multi-dimensional color changes. All-in-all though, C1 Pro is a bargain for creating profiles. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ammitsboel Posted June 14, 2009 Author Share #3 Posted June 14, 2009 Yes, I can do alot with just the tint slider. But as always I'm interested in pushing the envelope. Have you tried the color eyes camera profiler? Regards Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamie Roberts Posted June 15, 2009 Share #4 Posted June 15, 2009 Henrik-- Yes, I've tried ColorEyes camera profiler (not the new monitor device). IMO it's essentially junk. The Eye One is a little better and much easier to work with. Haven't tried anything new out of XRite though (they bought Gretag Macbeth). The most powerful is still Profile Maker 5.x... but it's pricey (like Leica lens pricey). And flaky too. Fuji makes something called ColorKit and I have their prining module and profile editors, and though they're old-fashioned they're brilliant, especially the paper profiler. Blows PM5 out of the water for a quarter of the price, IMO. Honestly: C1 Pro is probably the best bang for your buck: you really can edit a new input profile with the program itself (and a dozen or so test shots). Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ammitsboel Posted June 15, 2009 Author Share #5 Posted June 15, 2009 Henrik-- Yes, I've tried ColorEyes camera profiler (not the new monitor device). IMO it's essentially junk. The Eye One is a little better and much easier to work with. Haven't tried anything new out of XRite though (they bought Gretag Macbeth). The most powerful is still Profile Maker 5.x... but it's pricey (like Leica lens pricey). And flaky too. Fuji makes something called ColorKit and I have their prining module and profile editors, and though they're old-fashioned they're brilliant, especially the paper profiler. Blows PM5 out of the water for a quarter of the price, IMO. Honestly: C1 Pro is probably the best bang for your buck: you really can edit a new input profile with the program itself (and a dozen or so test shots). I just tried the ColorEyes, it makes a very saturated output. I haven't tested it enough yet, but it looks interesting. What do you see wrong with it? H Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamie Roberts Posted June 15, 2009 Share #6 Posted June 15, 2009 ColorEyes camera profiler does a terrible job (IMO) of creating a profile with decent skin tones. Even primaries and neutrals were near impossible for me. It was essentially wasted money, IMO. If you can get it to work, then that's great. YMMV Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ammitsboel Posted June 15, 2009 Author Share #7 Posted June 15, 2009 Advertisement (gone after registration) Jamie, how did you shoot the target? I use a viewing booth, but they don't recommend it. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ammitsboel Posted June 15, 2009 Author Share #8 Posted June 15, 2009 Is colourkit better than PM5 for CCDs? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamie Roberts Posted June 15, 2009 Share #9 Posted June 15, 2009 It's been awhile! If I recall correctly, I my efforts to get good results from the ColorEyes target I shot it four different ways before I gave up: sunlight. A good way for all targets, usually. Very even one light Tungsten floods. Daylight balanced fluourescents Metered strobes None of those methods gave very good results (And actually, I think they recommend only one light too, IIRC). Anyway, I gave up on it. Life's too short The Fuji colorkit is a little better IMO than PM5, but that's mostly due to ease-of-use in the editor. PM5 is not great to use, but it is the most powerful of the editors / profiling solutions (note that doesn't count for print or monitor profiling--I think Fuji is way better in terms of results for print profiling, with the Epsons anyway). Come to that, neither Fuji nor PM5 create very good "auto" camera profiles or make it easy to work with profiles once they're created. They're not exactly easy-to-use. But both are easier to get good results and easier to use than ColorEyes Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ammitsboel Posted June 16, 2009 Author Share #10 Posted June 16, 2009 Yes, it says that you must have a variation of no more than 3 in each of the 7 white pads to get an acurate result. I've never got good and even results from the target in sunlight, but with the booth I'm getting a variation of max 3 in the white pads so I thought it could be interesting. Did you profile with a 35mm or higher focal length? I've noticed that the summilux 35mm changes a lot in brightness from center to the edge. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jamie Roberts Posted June 16, 2009 Share #11 Posted June 16, 2009 {snipped} Did you profile with a 35mm or higher focal length? I've noticed that the summilux 35mm changes a lot in brightness from center to the edge. I always profile the M8 with a 50 Lux ASPH at f4 Stopped down, the 35 Lux ASPH shouldn't vignette very much either. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ammitsboel Posted June 17, 2009 Author Share #12 Posted June 17, 2009 I always profile the M8 with a 50 Lux ASPH at f4 Stopped down, the 35 Lux ASPH shouldn't vignette very much either. Maybe the viewing booth is fucked up then. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
ammitsboel Posted June 18, 2009 Author Share #13 Posted June 18, 2009 Jamie, do you shoot the target at a certain distance? I've noticed that I get different results from profiling at 1 meter distance compared to 2 meters distance. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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