Super macro shots with D2

[kumgak]

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Hi all,

 

I've known this trick for a while, and for my first post, I thought I should share this with you.

 

Got it from a LC1 user community in Korea.

 

Here's one with D2 minimun focusing distance,

and one with super macro.

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[kumgak]

Another ones..

 

No crop, just resize.

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[kumgak]

And here's how to do it;

 

First, change PICT SIZE to 1600.

QUALITY to low.

BURST RATE to L.

 

the shutter speed need to be over 1/30.

 

 

Then, put focusing ring at the minimum distance.

Put the zoom ring at 90mm.

 

You are all set to go...

you are taking CONTINOUS SHOTS (need at least 5), starting at closest from the object without compromising the shutter speed.

 

FOCUS WITH ZOOM RING...

VERY SLOWLY zoom out, then you'll see object is coming to focus.

 

once it is in focus, zoom out and in again (SLOWLY!) to make sure you get the shot.

 

 

This may sound complicated, but it really isn't. Try it a couple of times and you'll master it.

 

Enjoy!

 

Jun

[Alberto]

Very good colors and macro work.

ALberto

[ho_co]

Very interesting idea, and good work as well. Nice job!

 

It occurs to me that using the ELPRO would reduce the subject distance to half what you've got now, which should be able to give you even more spectacular images.

 

Thanks for sharing this with us!

 

--HC

[calshot]

Tried to do it last evening. Gave up. Easier to use the Elpro.

rob

[kumgak]

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This trick is for some of us who doesn't have the elpro.

Of course the elpro is the better way to go. If you have one, why bother?

 

Cheers,

 

Jun

[wda]

An interesting idea but I think the Elpro is probably quicker, even allowing time to fit it.

 

David

[pekem]

"It occurs to me that using the ELPRO would reduce the subject distance to half what you've got now, which should be able to give you even more spectacular images".

 

This might be a reason to adopt the method outlined by Jun. However,

I would like a fuller explanation of the technique. Why are the parameters as set out, such as quality and burst rate (burst rate, I will need to read the manual about that one) etc, important? I printed out the instructions, set the parameters on my D2 and then was completely at a loss as to how to proceed. I do not understand the focusing method and had no idea as to what I was doing or how to proceed. I would like to master it but alas it may be all too much for my simple brain to embrace.

[ho_co]

I would like a fuller explanation of the technique. Why are the parameters as set out, such as quality and burst rate etc, important?

 

Jun--

 

I'm confused as well. Your posted pictures show that it works well, but I'm lost.

 

"First, change PICT SIZE to 1600."

What difference does PICT SIZE make? Would using a larger or a faster SD card change this? Couldn't I use the same technique on another camera with a different size choice?

 

"QUALITY to low."

What difference does QUALITY make? Again, is this choice due to the number of pictures I'll be recording, the length of time it takes to write each one, or some other factor?

 

"BURST RATE to L."

Is this because of the other instructions? That is, would a HIGH BURST RATE simply be overkill since we are proceeding slowly overall? Or again, does it have to do with write rate or filling the card?

 

"The shutter speed needs to be over 1/30."

Why? Is this because most folks can't hand-hold much below 1/30 sec, particularly when higher magnifications are involved? Or is there another reason?

 

"Then, put focusing ring at the minimum distance. Put the zoom ring at 90mm."

I think I understand this one. We're dealing with a close object and want to make it as large as possible on the sensor, right?

 

"You are all set to go... you are taking CONTINOUS SHOTS (need at least 5), starting at closest from the object without compromising the shutter speed."

So I'm using manual focus and shutter priority, from what you've said before. Now I just hold down the shutter release and let the camera start shooting continuously, right? And it adjusts the aperture as necessary? I don't use flash, because its recycle time would mess up the whole schedule, right?

 

"FOCUS WITH ZOOM RING... VERY SLOWLY zoom out, then you'll see object is coming to focus. Once it is in focus, zoom out and in again (SLOWLY!) to make sure you get the shot."

Now I'm lost. All the zoom ring does is zoom, it doesn't focus. I think I could understand this if you had said, "Now with everything set that way, just lean slightly forward and backward repeatedly, and one of the shots might be good."

 

Up to this last point, I could make all the settings without understanding why--but the instruction to try to "focus with the zoom ring" leaves me whimpering in the corner!

 

 

I am interested in the technique, but it has me confused. That's why I was glad when Peter said that he is also having trouble understanding: I am not alone.

 

It's always nice to see a good idea, particularly when you share it on your first post--and we all welcome you aboard--but now if anyone can explain to my very sequential Western mind how this works, I would be delighted. Your pictures prove that it works, so I'd like to understand it!

 

--HC

[kumgak]

Ok, let me try again.

 

It is focusing with ZOOM ring (NOT focusing ring) under continous (series) exposure mode.

 

 

1. PREP.

 

i. Put D2 in manual focusing mode.(MF1 or MF2)

 

ii. Put file size (PICT SIZE in menu) to 1600.

2048 and HDTV is possible, but it doesn't work on 2580 because you can only take 3 pictures on that file size, and 3 is not enough to get the object in focus. 1600 works best for me because you can take shots as much as you want, CONTINOUSLY.

 

iii. Put the zoom ring at 90mm. (it can be done near 70mm too.)

 

iv. Turn the focusing ring to far right (minimun distance; <0.3 M).

 

v. Put the aperture setting to 2.0. (Again, this is to get maximum shutter speed. If you can get the shutter speed more than 1/30-1/60, then it dosen't matter.)

 

vi. Turn the review/record select lever to middle position,which is series exposure.

 

 

2 SHOOTING

 

i. Put the object as close as possible to the lens. Watch for shadow from the hood.

 

ii. Press and HOLD the shutter release button. As you do this, turn the zoom ring slowly to left (from 90mm towards 70mm).

 

iii. The object will come to focus, by getting sharper exposure by exposure, as you turn the zoom ring. From my experience, though it depends on the distance between lens and the object, it comes to focus around 70mm-55mm zone.

 

iv. When it looks like the object is in focus, stop turning the zoom ring. (but still hold the shutter release button.)

 

v. Try to 'fine focus' with zoom ring to make sure you get the shot.

 

vi. That's it!

 

I hope this is a better explaination of the method.

Please let me know if it worked..., 'cause I really want you to enjoy this 'hidden' feature of already a great camera, D2.

 

I wish I had better pictures to show.

 

Good luck,

 

Jun

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[kumgak]

And sorry, the QUALITY doesn't seem to matter after all. Sorry to confuse you.

 

And about the BURST RATE, H works also, but L seems to work better for me. That's why I mentioned it, to better success.

 

Please let me know if there are other qusetions.

 

Cheers,

 

Jun

[kumgak]

Hi HC,

Thanks for your comments, and I do feel welcome here. ^^

 

It only works on file size1600 on my SD card. I have Promaster professional high speed 1GB SD card. If you have a faster SD card and you can take continous 2580 shots, then you can bigger your file size.

 

The shutter speed need to go above 1/30 because it looks like slower shutter speed somehow makes this 'zoom focusing' mechanism not work. I find it dosen't come to focus. I think the lag between shots becomes too long, and it somehow looses it.

 

You know, I don't exactly know why and how this works. I simply presented the method that works for me. But I know this method works on all D2/LC1.

 

Again, let me know if it works, or if you have more questions.

 

Cheers,

 

Jun

[marknorton]

I don't understand what you are trying to do with this trial and error method. Lots of shots, most of them out of focus.

 

In macro, camera shake is very noticeable and depth of focus very shallow. Personally, I do not rate the D2 as a close up camera, a dedicated close focussing macro lens with an SLR is much better.

 

For best results with the D2, you should mount the camera on a tripod and use manual focus to select your plane of focus and if you can use the cable release, so much the better.

[MrEd]

Save yourself a lot of guess work by taking a 2580 file and cropping it. the quality will be MUCH better than any file that's 1600.

 

Thanks.

 

Ed.

 

 

 

 

.

[ho_co]

You know, I don't exactly know why and how this works. I simply presented the method that works for me.

Jun--

 

I am fascinated! Thanks for the more detailed information. I can't wait till the rain stops so I can go try this out.

 

--HC

[ho_co]

Jun--

 

Let those of little faith go their way! IT WORKS! How did anyone come to discover this trick? Weird!

 

It is fascinating, and I still need to play with it some more. I got well inside the closest focus distance of the camera and began turning the zoom slowly while firing continuously, with all settings as you said earlier--and the focus did indeed shift, as you said.

 

In just a couple minutes' experience I'm not sure on this, but in my case the procedure seemed to work only in one direction, when turning the zoom from tele toward wide.

 

At first there was just a little focus shift, then a kind of jerk that brought the image much nearer to being in focus, and suddenly, the object was sharp. Continuing to turn the zoom threw everything way out of focus again.

 

And the EXIF data indicate that the focal length seems to move in jumps, not smoothly.

 

This is baffling and strange but that's the fun of it--and you get pictures that you "can't" get with this camera! Haven't tried it yet with the ELPRO, but that might just give an even bigger kick to the images.

 

My guess is that somehow, since the Digilux 2 has both internal focus and internal zoom, and since we're shooting continuously, somehow we're confusing the box into giving us an image no one had bothered to tell it that it couldn't do.

 

I don't know how useful this will be, but it is a new trick I didn't know about.

 

Hmm. Do you suppose the Digilux 2 has Buddha nature?

 

Thanks again for the suggestion!

 

--HC

[kumgak]

It's my pleasure.

 

Very well said, much better than my challanged instruction. Thank you. ^^

 

Oh, I can't imagine trying with ELPRO!. Please let me know how does it do.

 

Cheers,

 

Jun

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Hallo,

Look here: Interesting Leica gear

[cboudier]

Hi Jun,

 

I'm happy I was able to experiment this method with some success...

Don't hesitate to visit this tread to see my photos :

http://www.leica-camera-user.com/nature-wildlife/2687-macro-korean-way-flowers-alps.html?posted=1#post24711post24266