colorflow Posted May 3, 2009 Share #1 Posted May 3, 2009 Advertisement (gone after registration) I have the Elmarit 19 v2 and the Lux 35 both of which are supposed to have mirror interference problems with the 5DII. Am I correct to assume these two lenses can be used on the 5DII without any issue as long as the live view mode is used? If yes, how practical would it be? I am seriously considering acquiring the Canon. Thanks in advance, Alan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted May 3, 2009 Posted May 3, 2009 Hi colorflow, Take a look here R lenses on Canon 5DII with live view question. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
johnastovall Posted May 3, 2009 Share #2 Posted May 3, 2009 Why not just get the mirror shaved so as not risk it and be able to use them as just lenses? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
colorflow Posted May 3, 2009 Author Share #3 Posted May 3, 2009 Why not just get the mirror shaved so as not risk it and be able to use them as just lenses? That's certainly an option. Can the mirror be shaved enough to accomodate both these lenses without affecting the picture in the viewfinder? Alan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
giordano Posted May 3, 2009 Share #4 Posted May 3, 2009 I have the Elmarit 19 v2 and the Lux 35 both of which are supposed to have mirror interference problems with the 5DII. Am I correct to assume these two lenses can be used on the 5DII without any issue as long as the live view mode is used? If yes, how practical would it be? I am seriously considering acquiring the Canon. Live view with the Nkon DSLRs involves a lot of mirror-flipping, and I guess it's the same with the Canons. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
harryzet Posted May 3, 2009 Share #5 Posted May 3, 2009 why do you want to use this praehistoric lenses on the best digitalcamera? sell them, get a canon 1,4/35L and never look back Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevesanacore Posted May 3, 2009 Share #6 Posted May 3, 2009 why do you want to use this praehistoric lenses on the best digitalcamera? sell them, get a canon 1,4/35L and never look back You have have got to be kidding. I have quite a few Canon lenses and have tested them all against my Leica 19, 28 and 35mm lenses - and the Canon 35 1.4, 16-35 2.8 II, 24-70, 50 1.4 etc etc, are so inferior optically that it's embarrassing for Canon. The 16-35 mk2 is a good step in the right direction, but they have a long way to go and am not sure they really care to get to Leica's level of performance. The 19 is the only one that doesn't work on the 5D Mk2. But it works fine on the 1Dsmk3 so I haven't done the mirror shave on my new camera yet. I did it on my old 5D's and it made such a mess of the camera that I hesitate to do it to my new one. I have not tried the live view mode with it though yet. If I can get to it today, i'll report back here. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
harryzet Posted May 3, 2009 Share #7 Posted May 3, 2009 Advertisement (gone after registration) You have have got to be kidding. I have quite a few Canon lenses and have tested them all against my Leica 19, 28 and 35mm lenses - and the Canon 35 1.4, 16-35 2.8 II, 24-70, 50 1.4 etc etc, are so inferior optically that it's embarrassing for Canon. The 16-35 mk2 is a good step in the right direction, but they have a long way to go and am not sure they really care to get to Leica's level of performance. The 19 is the only one that doesn't work on the 5D Mk2. But it works fine on the 1Dsmk3 so I haven't done the mirror shave on my new camera yet. I did it on my old 5D's and it made such a mess of the camera that I hesitate to do it to my new one. I have not tried the live view mode with it though yet. If I can get to it today, i'll report back here. do you have pictures that show the difference? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
colorflow Posted May 3, 2009 Author Share #8 Posted May 3, 2009 why do you want to use this praehistoric lenses on the best digitalcamera? sell them, get a canon 1,4/35L and never look back I guess you know little about Leica glass. If you look around on the web, including the FM's Canon user's, you will find plenty of complaints about Canon L glass vs Leica R, especially for the wides. Yes, I had both the Canon 24-70 and the 24L and sold them quickly. No comparison with Leica R. But don't have shots side by side to convince you. I am sure others on the forum probably do. Alan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pgk Posted May 3, 2009 Share #9 Posted May 3, 2009 Actually, Canon's 35/1.4 does enjoy a good reputation. Their 24/1.4 may not be the ultimate performer but it is the fastest 24mm FF lens available for digital (as the 24/1.4M cannot be used on FF as yet) and as such has no competition (I use mine wide-open a great deal) from Leica. However lenses such as the Canon 20/2.8 are to be blunt (certainly in my experience and that of many others) not up to scratch. I am considering the mirror trim for a 5D in order to be able to use my R 19/2.8 II and would be interested in a 21-35R too if I have this mod carried out. I have at least one repairer prepared to modify a mirror and then fit it into a 5D for me.... I may play with live view but this does sound like a potentially risky way to shoot with the mirror able to collide with the rear lens assembly if any mistake is made or if power drops. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevesanacore Posted May 3, 2009 Share #10 Posted May 3, 2009 do you have pictures that show the difference? First I must clarify that my only interest in high quality optics is in landscape and architectural work. For my lifestyle work, it is just not as important for lenses to be sharp across the field. My Canon lenses are great for that part of my work which is usually shot wide open. Every few months I take the time to set up my camera in a set place and test out new optics. The 35mm 1.4 was a terrible performer for the landscape tests that I do. The corner sharpness was horrible. It has been the same with the 24-70, 50 1.4, 24 shift. The new 16-35 is a bit better once you stop way down. But that is not what I want. I need lenses to perform like my Leica's do i.e., at f5.6 and f8 my 19mm and 28mm R's are razor sharp across the field. The Canon lenses don't get anywhere near this at any stop. At f11 or 16 the Canon's get better but at that point they become limited in use. I hope Canon's new 17 and 24mm shift lenses are way better and I will be a happy camper. They are certainly charging enough for them. If you don't see the deficiencies in your optics now, why worry about it. I have countless landscape shots that are un-useable when greatly enlarged, from soft edges in some and just overall softness on others from using poor optics. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
pgk Posted May 3, 2009 Share #11 Posted May 3, 2009 stevesanacore - If you are talking about mid-apertures then I will fully agree but then ultra fast lenses are designed (hopefully) to be used wide open. FWIW the 80/1.4R is one of the best lenses I have ever used at f/8ish, way better than the Canon 85/1.2L! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
psquared Posted May 4, 2009 Share #12 Posted May 4, 2009 I have a partially modified 19/2.8 II (it clears the 1Ds series mirrors but not 5D series mirrors). I've used it on 1DsM3 and 5DM2. Even though it catches the mirror on the way down on 5DM2, it works perfectly in live view mode. Since you will be using it for architecture and landscapes (probably on a tripod), you should not have any problems. The mirror does not come down between exposures -- unless you keep it idle for a long time. So, you put the camera in live view mode, mount your lens, take your exposures, then take your lens off when you're finished, then disable live view mode. This should get around any mirror-fouling problems. Even if the mirror comes down and hangs, this should not cause any problem to your mirror or the lens. Simply take the lens off and the mirror should return to its normal place. The lenses' rear elements are well protected, and the mirror should be able to handle this kind of trauma. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
colorflow Posted May 4, 2009 Author Share #13 Posted May 4, 2009 I have a partially modified 19/2.8 II (it clears the 1Ds series mirrors but not 5D series mirrors). I've used it on 1DsM3 and 5DM2. Even though it catches the mirror on the way down on 5DM2, it works perfectly in live view mode. Since you will be using it for architecture and landscapes (probably on a tripod), you should not have any problems. The mirror does not come down between exposures -- unless you keep it idle for a long time. So, you put the camera in live view mode, mount your lens, take your exposures, then take your lens off when you're finished, then disable live view mode. This should get around any mirror-fouling problems. Even if the mirror comes down and hangs, this should not cause any problem to your mirror or the lens. Simply take the lens off and the mirror should return to its normal place. The lenses' rear elements are well protected, and the mirror should be able to handle this kind of trauma. Thanks Peter, you've told me what I hoped was true, i.e. the lens can be mounted in live mode with the morror up and the mirror does not come down until the live mode ot power is turned off. Did you file down the shroud of the 19 v2? How much did it take to clear the 1Ds mirror? Any sense as to how much more is needed to clear the 5D mirror? Thanks, Alan Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevesanacore Posted May 4, 2009 Share #14 Posted May 4, 2009 stevesanacore - If you are talking about mid-apertures then I will fully agree but then ultra fast lenses are designed (hopefully) to be used wide open. FWIW the 80/1.4R is one of the best lenses I have ever used at f/8ish, way better than the Canon 85/1.2L! Yes, so much of my work is at mid apertures. Handholding a camera with a pola filter brings you down to 5.6-8 where the Canon optics are just terrible for landscape type photos where fine detail suffers. And on interiors where I can shoot at f8 with my 19mm - and be secure with sharpness to the corners with almost no distortion. I tried that with my 16-35 and it was tragic. I hope Canon finds the motivation to improve their wide angle optics. Maybe the 17mm shift is going to shock me with high quality - I really hope so. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
psquared Posted May 4, 2009 Share #15 Posted May 4, 2009 Did you file down the shroud of the 19 v2? How much did it take to clear the 1Ds mirror? Any sense as to how much more is needed to clear the 5D mirror? Thanks, Alan I bought the lens after the shroud has been filed down already, so I do not know how much filing it took. My sense is that it won't take much more filing to clear the 5D series mirrors as the mirror hangs only on the way down. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevesanacore Posted May 4, 2009 Share #16 Posted May 4, 2009 I bought the lens after the shroud has been filed down already, so I do not know how much filing it took. My sense is that it won't take much more filing to clear the 5D series mirrors as the mirror hangs only on the way down. I filed the shroud off my 19mm 2.8 and stopped there. I had to also grind down the mirror on my original 1Ds and 5D for it to clear. It was a relief when the 19 worked with my new 1Ds mk3 worked without touching the mirror! But with the 5D Mk2 I wasn't so lucky. I would be reluctant to grind down any more of the lens as it gets very close to exposing the rear element. I am hoping I can use the lens with live view mode and see how that works. In my experience with my 19mm 2.8, the mirror will not touch the rear element if it hits the lens as long as you do not remove the protection ring from too much grinding. You can also judge how much room you need by focusing the lenses to it's minimum distance which will move the rear element away from the film plane, and see if it clears - but please make sure your rear element is not in the path of the mirror before trying this! I used this lens this way many times: turn the focus ring until the it stops at it's close focus point, lock up the mirror, refocus for the shot, shoot and then move the focus away etc. you can also take the lens off the camera, lock up the mirror, put the lens on and shoot. Not convenient but it worked as long as you have a sturdy tripod. First make sure the rear element does not protrude past it's protective ring and that the ring has no material removed from it. You do not want you mirror to hit the glass and turn your lens into a paperweight! I just tried it using live-view. When the lens is focused at infinity - it doesn't clear. When using live view it works but will hit the lens when you turn on live view and then turn it off, as the mirror moved up and then back. I guess you could turn on live view - put the lens on - then when finished take the lens off before you turn live view off. If you are anywhere that is dusty, that would be a real problem. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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