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Leica MP. Love it. And now...?


bzange

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I have been using a M8 for about two years now (as a "photography-enthusiast"). It is my first serious camera and I am glad I made the decision to go for a rangefinder as my main system. I feel that the process of taking a picture is so much more conscious and "direct" than with any SLR.

 

Unfortunately it also led to a certain photography-addiction. Having followed this forum for a while for multiple more or less sensible reasons ("film is the real thing - let's find out how it works", "better dynamic range", "50mm = 50mm", "sensor-dust?", "battery empty?", "humidity, dust, rain, cold - so?") I grew a strong urge to get a Leica MP.

 

I finally bought it on Saturday and shot my first (ever!) few rolls of b/w film. I love it.

Feels great in my hands, makes me think about what I want to do, nobody notices the shutter sound, just a solid tool.

 

My idea is to shoot b/w and develop the film myself at home (In my window-less bathroom) and scan it. Additionally I could rent the local photography school's darkroom to use an enlarger and expose on paper.

I have some literature on the process of developing film and prints and hope this will get me started. Other than that I depend on experimenting and hopefully your suggestions.

 

I used T-Max 400 and Tri-X 400, some pushed to 800 or 1600. I think for now I will just stick to those films.

 

My initial questions about developing these films:

- Which developer shall I use?

- What about the fixer etc.?

- Shall I just get the Kodak range of chemicals and see how it goes?

- General tips and suggestions

- Also, how do I load film into this roll in complete darkness!?

- Good web recourses with further information?

 

Basically I just need some help to get me started without making things too complicated for now.

 

I am greatfull for any recommendations and help. Sorry for the loooong post...

 

Regards,

Boris

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buy a changing bag or a harrison pup tent for dealing with film ( loading into development tank ) . chemicals you will have to experience your self i use hc-110 for tri-x and sprint ( d76 equivalent ) for tmax and pan f . in my opinion fixer is fixer doesn't matter what brand i buy sprint because it's cheap .

 

you can very well print in the bathroom i did it for a couple of years . check out your local library and get a couple books for a reference and experiment with different films and chemicals everybody has what works for them and the manufactures even have a few suggestions :) .

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If you are pushing the TriX, try DDX -- quite available and a great push film. i use it all the time, whether pushing or not. For TMax, use TMax (which also works for TriX). But you are likely going to find you have a preference for either TriX or TMax as they are different types of film with their own characteristics.

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It 's been a very long time since I developped my own film. I did it almost every day in the seventees when I studied photography. Never had any problem loading the film, just make sure that the reel is absolutely dry before loading the film on it. I used to cut of the first small part of the film ( left it out of the filmcan when rewinding ). Also, cut it between the perforations. You can always try it first with an exposed film.

 

Etienne Michiels

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I'd start with liquid chemicals like HC-110 developer for example, liquids are easier to use. I'm doing the same thing and also bought Ilford Rapid Fixer and Kodak Photo-Flo 200 solution (a wetting agent that helps eliminate drying streaks and water marks). All are liquid. I'm sure others will chime in with their favorites but I would use ease-of-use as a major criterion in your selections to begin with.

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I agree with the other posters. When you have bought your chemicals, stick with them and one type of film for a while. Learn the effects of over-developing; of under-exposing and over-developing and over-exposing and under developing. Once you have the basics sorted, branch out into other developers and films,

 

I use a changing bag to load film - they're inexpensive, fold away and are a godsend. I use both stainless steel reels and plastic; the key to either is to make sure they are totally dry, as someone else said. I find loading either is easier if you snip a little bit off each film leading edge at about a 45deg angle.

 

There are many threads on scanning black and white negatives. I do mine on a Nikon 9000ED and am very happy with the results, printed on either my Canon 9500 or at the lab.

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rodinal + trix @ 250 or 320 ASA. Easy one shot developer with great shadow detail, creamy whites and charcoal blacks. Just keep the agitation minimal. There's nothing better photographically than shooting, developing and then wet printing your own images. I love the immense creative control. Enjoy the new MP and the images you compose with it!

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Thanks a lot for all your encouraging answers and recommendations.

I live in Singapore and since posting this thread found a store (Ruby Photo for anyone also based here) that specialises in everything needed for developing film. They also do analog film processing and prints for you. Very nice shop that has been there since the sixties as I am told.

I bought the utensils, a bottle of t-max developer, fixer and wetting agent and on Saturday I will have a go at developing some film and I hope I don't loose to many pictures.

I will post some examples (if it works out).

 

Cheers,

Boris

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Goodness, I am doing the exact same thing. I have gotten tired of waiting for the lab to develop my B&W. Just baught a harrison pup tent ect. and will scan using my 5000 with the roll film adapter.

 

I just load mine at night in a bathroom with no windows and a towel under the door, or in my closet with the lights off and curtains drawn. If I still cannot see my hand in front of my face after a couple of minutes of adjustment, then it is plenty dark enough.

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I bought the utensils, a bottle of t-max developer, fixer and wetting agent and on Saturday I will have a go at developing some film and I hope I don't loose to many pictures.

I will post some examples (if it works out).

 

Cheers,

Boris

 

Hi Boris,

 

Perhaps a bit late to chime in this recommendation, but try using a roll of unexposed film when learning to thread the reels for the first time. You can even try this with the lights on to make note of what's happening should your film buckle or get stuck. If you run into a snag, close your eyes and get a sense of how the film and reel feel in your hands in that state.

 

Black and white photography is (still) an artform that makes a wonderful life-long pursuit. I hope you enjoy it.

 

 

-J.

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