Processing B&W Film

[stunsworth]

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You'll need stop bath - some people omit this and just use a water rinse, I prefer to stop the development quickly - and fixer.

 

In general developer cannot be reused, stop bath and fixer can.

 

You would also benefit from a wetting agent for the final rinse. after washing. This will help drying and reduce drying marks.

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[PeterIH]

This is my first posting on this forum and I haven't yet read all the posts so excuse me when I write someting that is already mentioned elswhere.

I am a B/W photographer for over 40 years now and have always done my own developement.

I have NEVER used a stop bath, not with film developement nor with darkroom printing.

It is absolutely unnecessary. It does not shorten the time between development and fixing. Just a couple of times fresh water (same temperature as developer) in the tank and ready. Further advantage of using a waterstop is that there is no big shock in pH between successive baths. From the alkali environment of the developer (pH >7) to an acid environment of the stopbath may in some cases cause some reticulation or coarse grain.

 

For a developer: Ilford ID11 or D76 by kodak in 1:1 dilution works just fine for the films you mentioned at nominal EV.

Don't forget the wetting agent after the final rinse.

 

I myself use fairly exclusive Delta 100 developed in Emofin by Tetenal, a 2-bath developer.

Gives very detailed and easy to enlarge negatives.

 

For some of my pictures:

 

Flickr: Peter IH's Photostream

 

All pictures taken with M3 and M6 TTL

 

Succes!

Peter.

[NZDavid]

Me too, years since I developed B+W all the time, but I agree with EJD, absolutely nothing has changed in 35 years. Techniques, chemicals, films still the same -- results just as good! My favorites have been Ilford Pan F, Agfa APX 25 and 100. Various other specialty B+W films, eg Forte, available, which are worth trying. Slow films really do have superb grain and tonal range and get the very best out of Leitz/Leica lenses.

 

I still have my Paterson tank -- must try it out again soon.

 

For film dev, Agfa Rodinal or Ilford Perceptol (ultra fine). Ilford Pan F @ 32 ISO in Perceptol yields extremely fine grain. ID11 is general purpose.

 

Use a drop of glacial acetic acid for stop bath.

 

Wash film well after fixing, and make sure water is not too cold (shoud be about 20C) or you get reticulation which is horrible. Gently squeegee film to avoid drying marks. Handle with care.

 

I agree: Ilford info is excellent.

 

Have fun!

[stunsworth]

Gently squeegee film to avoid drying marks

 

I have to disagree <grin>. When I've tried using a squeegee - either a rubber one, or just fingers - I've always hit problems with scratches. Not all the time, but enough for it to be a nuisance.

 

To avoid drying marks I do the final rinse with wetting agent (3-4 drops per film - no more, using deionised/distilled water - never tap water), then drain the tank, flick as much of the liquid off the reel, then put it in the tank and cover for a few seconds with distilled water. Then remove the reel and again flick it to remove as much liquid as possible. Then hang up to dry.

 

Result, no drying marks.

[NZDavid]

Yes, squeegeeing can leave marks if you are not extra careful, and seems to depend on ambient temperature. Wetting agent sounds like a better solution (literally).

[sketchyhead]

If those pictures are testimony to choosing the right black & white developing chemicals, those are the ones I'll try when I next get the processing urge. Good shots.

 

Paul Hampson

[MPerson]

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Surprised nobody has mentioned APUG - I learn something new over there everytime I visit. The B&W: Film, Paper, Chemistry forum is a mine of info:

 

APUG - Analogue Photography Users Group