mann61 Posted August 14, 2008 Author Share #21 Posted August 14, 2008 Advertisement (gone after registration) Yep I know Ffords,but I don't really care for mail order.I prefer to handle the camera.I guess 42 years old and still working says something about quality:you hear some guys moaning about M6,7 and MPs dx not functioning properly.I have faith in the wind up age,'though this is wind up laptop sucks a bit!! DM Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted August 14, 2008 Posted August 14, 2008 Hi mann61, Take a look here M Help. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
NZDavid Posted August 14, 2008 Share #22 Posted August 14, 2008 All I can say is I find the M3 complements the M6 really well. Extremely well built and rugged. More solid than a brick wall for sure. The same era rigid Summicron is also an excellent performer. I wear glasses and don't mind the finder at all - it's lifesize and the rangefinder is very clear. Yes, loading and rewinding can be tricky. If you have mastered the art of tying your own shoelaces, you should be able to manage it. And you will have to be patient. It takes at least five seconds longer. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill Posted August 14, 2008 Share #23 Posted August 14, 2008 There are some companies I would not hesitate to buy from mail order. Ffordes is one, and some of the others are MW Classic, Robert White and Jonathan Harris. Yes, loading and rewinding can be tricky. If you have mastered the art of tying your own shoelaces, you should be able to manage it. And you will have to be patient. It takes at least five seconds longer. ...or you could always get a quick-load kit - fitted in seconds, and saves you those precious five seconds, if you are really in that much of a hurry Regards, Bill Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest maddoc2003jp Posted August 14, 2008 Share #24 Posted August 14, 2008 Two more comments about the M4 (I had one but sold): 1) Early models of the M4 have the prism glued with the balm and prism can separate (some cases reported). 2) The shutter-curtain of the M4 can rip of the drum when the lubricants are dry out. A CLA (if not done recently) is highly recommended. Otherwise the M4 is a nice camera. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andybarton Posted August 14, 2008 Share #25 Posted August 14, 2008 I have a 1960 M2 and an M7. The M7 eats batteries like they are going out of fashion, but both are terrific, beautiful cameras. But the M2 will always be my first Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
thrid Posted August 14, 2008 Share #26 Posted August 14, 2008 Go for the M4 or M2. The M3 does not have framelines for 35mm lenses (50/90/135). You would need to use a special version of a 35mm with 'goggles' or an external finder. Some people also don't like the thick 50mm framelines. Film is loaded on a takeup spool, which can be slow. Other than that it's a great camera. The M2 has markings for 35/50/90. There still is a take up spool for the film, which is slow to load. Other than that this is a fantastic camera. The M4 has markings for 35/50/90/135. It uses the modern 'tulip', instead of the takeup spool for film. The M4 also has a tilted rewind crank like the M6, which makes it faster to rewind film. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill Posted August 14, 2008 Share #27 Posted August 14, 2008 Advertisement (gone after registration) I have a 1960 M2 and an M7. The M7 eats batteries like they are going out of fashion, but both are terrific, beautiful cameras. But the M2 will always be my first Andy, I have the same pairing. If your M7 eats batteries, send it in. I had one of the very first to be shipped into the UK and it had a battery drain problem straight out of the box. As I recall there was something earthing in the body causing the drain - some careless soldering or the like (I am less technical than a coatimundi). Anyway, it was swapped out immediately by MK for a new one and I have had no problems ever since. Best regards, Bill Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
thrid Posted August 14, 2008 Share #28 Posted August 14, 2008 Two more comments about the M4 (I had one but sold): 1) Early models of the M4 have the prism glued with the balm and prism can separate (some cases reported). 2) The shutter-curtain of the M4 can rip of the drum when the lubricants are dry out. A CLA (if not done recently) is highly recommended. Otherwise the M4 is a nice camera. Leica stopped using Canadian Balsam with the M2. If there are any M4 bodies out there as you describe, they must be very rare and use left over M2 finders. The finder in the M4 is slightly different than the unit found in the M2, in particular the frameline mask. The shutter in the M4 is the same as in earlier M bodies and what you describe can happen to any of these cameras. The build quality of the M4 is equal to the M2 and M3. Leica didn't start to cut corners until the M4-2, when they almost went under. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
thomasw_ Posted August 14, 2008 Share #29 Posted August 14, 2008 Hi there; I will back Bill's M2 recommendation on one condition; if you plan to shoot BOTH the 50 mm and 35 mm lenses. I read through the OP but found no mention of shooting with a 35 mm lens, however. Yet I fear I might have missed the OP mentioning it So, take what follows based on the assumption that I read your intention as being only to shoot with a 50 mm lens. If that is the case, I strongly urge you to get a M3. There is no better finder for a 50 mm! The viewfinder is so bright and has a very high magnification for accurate focussing with 50s and even longer focal lengths. Cheers, Thomas Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris_livsey Posted August 14, 2008 Share #30 Posted August 14, 2008 Hi there; I read through the OP but found no mention of shooting with a 35 mm lens, however. Yet I fear I might have missed the OP mentioning it Cheers, Thomas[/quote We know he will buy a 35mm though if he buys an M2 Maybe even a 90mm as well Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill Posted August 14, 2008 Share #31 Posted August 14, 2008 We know he will buy a 35mm though if he buys an M2 Maybe even a 90mm as well Resistance is futile... We all start with one. Just one... That will meet all our needs. Forever. Small... Light... Easy to carry... Result, happiness. And then... The siren call strikes. If only we ALSO had a [insert lens as applicable] our Leica experience would be complete THAT would meet all our needs forever... *sigh* Regards, Bill Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
mann61 Posted August 14, 2008 Author Share #32 Posted August 14, 2008 I have already thought about buying an M2 and also an M4.Then there's the lens consideration:one person mentioned a cv 40/1.4,I thought I might buy a 35/1.4 or a 50/2.8 Elmar.I can see a new line for me and I want to USE the camera(s).Oh help me!!! DM Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob_x2004 Posted August 15, 2008 Share #33 Posted August 15, 2008 If you are after a user why dont you just buy an M6, there is a lot less ginning around metering and loading. 35Summicron would be a good place to start too. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest maddoc2003jp Posted August 15, 2008 Share #34 Posted August 15, 2008 Leica stopped using Canadian Balsam with the M2. If there are any M4 bodies out there as you describe, they must be very rare and use left over M2 finders. The finder in the M4 is slightly different than the unit found in the M2, in particular the frameline mask. The shutter in the M4 is the same as in earlier M bodies and what you describe can happen to any of these cameras. The build quality of the M4 is equal to the M2 and M3. Leica didn't start to cut corners until the M4-2, when they almost went under. About the VF: The early M4 production had the M2 type prism and suffers from the same balsam deterioration problem. Those models are usually (but not always)identifiable by the light baffle inboard of the eye piece lens being rectangular. The later ones the baffle has the bowed top and bottom similar to M4-2 and newer, and have the same non-separating prism. Generally serial no's above 1,200,000 have the newer prism, but like everything with Leica most rules of thumb have their exceptions. (found here) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
NZDavid Posted August 15, 2008 Share #35 Posted August 15, 2008 <<Resistance is futile.>> Yes indeed. And "the truth is out there." It's a slippery slope. First the 50 and one body. (all HCB seemed to need BTW) Then the 35, more and more, then an extra body, then... But enjoy, why not? I agree ffordes are excellent to deal with and heartily recommended. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris_livsey Posted August 15, 2008 Share #36 Posted August 15, 2008 <<Resistance is futile.>> First the 50 and one body. (all HCB seemed to need BTW) This does go around the web Like us it may be all he "needed" but was not all he had or used. In NYC in 1946 he was using a Zeiss Biogon 35/2.8. He is documented at various times using a 35/3.5 Elmar, a 73/1.9 Hektor, a Summar, a collapsible Summicron,a Xenon 50mm f/1.5 a 135mm and frequently he used two bodies to avoid film changes when shooting. There are also pictures of him using a Leica CL. If you want "the look" the way may be to compose as he did in his early work with a VIDOM finder giving a right/left reveresed image. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris_livsey Posted August 15, 2008 Share #37 Posted August 15, 2008 This is public domain to the best of my knowledge. Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/60159-m-help/?do=findComment&comment=628494'>More sharing options...
StS Posted August 15, 2008 Share #38 Posted August 15, 2008 Go for the M4 or M2. The M3 does not have framelines for 35mm lenses (50/90/135). You would need to use a special version of a 35mm with 'goggles' or an external finder. Some people also don't like the thick 50mm framelines. Film is loaded on a takeup spool, which can be slow. Other than that it's a great camera. The M2 has markings for 35/50/90. There still is a take up spool for the film, which is slow to load. Other than that this is a fantastic camera. The M4 has markings for 35/50/90/135. It uses the modern 'tulip', instead of the takeup spool for film. The M4 also has a tilted rewind crank like the M6, which makes it faster to rewind film. I'm using the M3 but would prefer the frames to be 35/50/90. 135mm is said to be at the very limit of the range finder base, especially when using it with open aperture. I also like to see some of the environment around the frame. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill Posted August 15, 2008 Share #39 Posted August 15, 2008 My M7 is a .85. It has 35/135 50/75 and 90 frames, no 28. It is a pleasure to go to the uncluttered 35-50-90 of the M2 at times. Regards, Bill Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
NZDavid Posted August 17, 2008 Share #40 Posted August 17, 2008 Re HCB using the 50. Yes indeed, he used other lenses. There's even a mid 90s pic of him with a Minilux. But I believe the 50 was definitely his favorite lens. This from "The World's 10 Greatest Photograhers", Popular Photography, May 1958: "Cartier-Bresson works exclusively with the Leica, together with lenses of 'various nationalities.' He prefers to use the 50-mm focal length. He has a very low regard for accessories and gadgets of all kinds..." Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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