bluedubbed Posted February 26, 2008 Share #1 Posted February 26, 2008 Advertisement (gone after registration) Hi all. Does anyone have any experience with either of these two adapters. The electronic connections look a bit different between the two. I'm looking to mount a few R lenses on an EOS 30D. Any help/suggestions are appreciated. Thanks. AF-Confirm Adapter for leica R lens to Canon EOS camera on eBay, also, Lens Mounts Adaptors, Camera Lenses, Photography (end time 27-Feb-08 06:37:17 GMT) Leica R Lens to Canon Eos 30d 40d 350d 400d 1ds adapter on eBay, also, Lens Mounts Adaptors, Camera Lenses, Photography (end time 01-Mar-08 19:00:00 GMT) Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted February 26, 2008 Posted February 26, 2008 Hi bluedubbed, Take a look here R to EOS adapter. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
echorec Posted February 27, 2008 Share #2 Posted February 27, 2008 I think I have the second model but I am sure both will work well. I get excellent results with R-lenses on my 5D. Good luck, it´s fun! Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluedubbed Posted February 27, 2008 Author Share #3 Posted February 27, 2008 Thanks for the reply. I was just wondering if I was missing something between the two. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
george_b Posted February 27, 2008 Share #4 Posted February 27, 2008 There are several types around, SRB sell one (got one), got a cheaper one but well made from Japan, the two cheap Made in China work OK but are cheaply made from plated brass and need to tweek the 'adjusters' to get a tight fit. Mine only work in Aperature Priority and manual stop down. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluedubbed Posted February 27, 2008 Author Share #5 Posted February 27, 2008 Thanks George. I've read the FAQ from nemeng.com and other sources on the web. The consensus seems to be you get what you pay for. I thought it might be nice to have the focus confirmation and the price is great. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
RobMac Posted February 27, 2008 Share #6 Posted February 27, 2008 Be careful of cheap adapters. To get proper infinity focus and to avoid hanging the mirror on more clearance-critical lenses like a modified L 19/2.8 II you need an adapter that is EXACTLY 3mm thick - no more, no less and uniformly so around the diameter of the adapter. Some makers seem to ensure infinity by making the adapter JUST under 3mm thick - which for some lenses is a no-no. The gold standard are Kindai (sic). CameraQuest adapters are apparently re-painted Kindai units. Happypagehk on ebay are ok, but just. I have some and if could do it again, I'd buy Kindai/CQ. Fotodiox are good. Novoflex makes a unit (big $$$$) that uses the same lens mounts as Leica uses, but it is something like $240+ and you need one per lens. Sometimes cheap works, most often it's a PITA. Most adapters need to be adjusted (see http://www.pebbleplace.com) - no biggie. If you're serious about using the glass on an EOS body (I do on a 1Ds2), pay for the better units. Given the cost of the lenses.... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
zapp Posted February 28, 2008 Share #7 Posted February 28, 2008 Advertisement (gone after registration) While focus reply sounds nice, anything that can be sold for less than 20 bucks is crap, nothing but crap. Why do people spend thousands of dollars on lenses to fix them with such crappy adapters on a different camera. I once bought a chinese made crap adapter myself and was impressed how cheap you can go. Took me 0.5 seconds to send it back and go a real adapter. Decent adapters are available for 50 bucks and more. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
bluedubbed Posted February 28, 2008 Author Share #8 Posted February 28, 2008 Thanks again for all the input. For those that have a non-AF confirmation adapter, do you find it difficult to focus in lower light conditions with a longer lens? I have three lenses that I'm interested in using, a fisheye, a 50 Cron, and a 70-210. I'll probably end up using the 70-210 most of the time. Thanks. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
jo_ernst Posted February 28, 2008 Share #9 Posted February 28, 2008 Hello out there, i feel fine with my adaptor bought via ebay at fotodiox to be used with a EOS D5. Nevertheless, some corrections have to be done at the rest notch especially due to wear out of the hooking grooves in my R-lenses. Further, the Elmarit-R 2.8/24mm firstly caused problems because the holder of the back lens was too long and thus caused irritations of mirror movement of the D5. A shortening of the holder of about 0.5 mm (and a suitable re-blacking of the brass) was the solution finally. I use R-wide angles and the Telyt 250 as well as 350 mm together with this adaptor at my D5 and I have no problems concerning sharpness, depth of field and contrast at all. But one observation is still funny, perhaps some one can help me. The problem is, that especially using R-lenses at closer f-stops (f/8 to f/16) the exposure time proposed by the D5 always leads to exposures far too bright, and vice versa at f-stops wider open (f/5.6, f/4) they are too dark. Perhaps someone may have a hint to solve this problem? In the moment, i decided to take shots with 'trial and error', this might be done for landscapes and stills, but for shots which never will be done again this is no way at all. Can anybody tell me some hints? Thank you. Regards, Jo. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stunsworth Posted February 28, 2008 Share #10 Posted February 28, 2008 Jo, I had exactly the same problem with my R adaptor on my 5D. This didn't appear to be an issue with the other Canon digital SLRs that I've owned - 300D (digital rebel) and 20D. As the aperture gets smaller the camera tends to overexposure. You can test this by taking the same shot several times stopping down the lens as you do so. You'll notice the image getting brighter as the lens is stopped down. It appears that this is due to there being no electrical linkage between the camera and the lens to indicate the lenses maximum aperture. On the pro bodies that isn't an issue as they allow the photographer to manually tell the camera what the maximum aperture is. Not the case on the 5D. As a compromise I used to dial in an exposure compensation of -2/3 or3 of a stop. I found that gave good exposures at all apertures. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
zapp Posted February 29, 2008 Share #11 Posted February 29, 2008 Jo, the solution is simple; Canon won't tell you, but Sigma does and they work with a quite similar AF mount. On the Sigma SD14 any lens that does not correspond with the in-camera metering is interpreted as being f/5.6. So there is a default value. The same is probably due for the EOS 5D. Overexposure for larger f-stop numbers, under exposure for smaller f-stop numbers. Find out the default aperture and male stop down exposuire measurements at this f-stop and you will be fine. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stunsworth Posted February 29, 2008 Share #12 Posted February 29, 2008 Rob, I used an adaptor from Cameraquest - expensive but well made. I've also tried one of the cheap Chinese adaptors with AF. The AF chip on the adaptor was just glued on and fell off after a few days. Regarding exposure, the lens closes down as you turn the aperture from say f2 to f8 - there's no auto diaphragm - so the image gets dimmer and this is reflected in the metering. As well as metering manually you can also meter using aperture priority. What I used to do was focus with the lens wide open, then stop down the lens and press the shutter. After a short while this becomes second nature and you quickly learn how far you want to turn the aperture ring. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob_x2004 Posted February 29, 2008 Share #13 Posted February 29, 2008 ps....Hey Im on a Mac, it gets confused at times. Now Steve, I have a question for you thanks for the quick response:D. This didn't appear to be an issue with the other Canon digital SLRs that I've owned - 300D (digital rebel) and 20D. It appears that this is due to there being no electrical linkage between the camera and the lens to indicate the lenses maximum aperture. As a compromise I used to dial in an exposure compensation of -2/3 or3 of a stop. I found that gave good exposures at all apertures. Steve which adaptor did you use on a 20D? If you shoot manual mode, what does the in camera light meter tell you? The lens closes down as you run through the stops or does hang open till the exposure? Sorry for the dumb ass questions. Never seen an adaptor. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stunsworth Posted February 29, 2008 Share #14 Posted February 29, 2008 Hi Rob, I think I answered your questions before you asked them <grin>. I'm assuming you deleted your original post - the one I was responding to. If anything isn't clear in my reply let me know and I'll try to clarify what I wrote. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob_x2004 Posted February 29, 2008 Share #15 Posted February 29, 2008 Yes, thanks Steve, I was wondering if this would be a problem. Is it that In manual (or eperture prority) when you adjust aperture the diaphragm on the canon lens is held open till exposure, so the cameras exposure program is set up to tell you correct shutter speed for your proposed aperture based on the amount of light coming through wide open? Since the Leica lens isnt talking to the camera I figure the body thinks the lens is missing or is at full open like it would be with the matched canon lens and that the light coming in is based on a very dull day, not that you have it round at f/8. Is this why the exposure is off? No doubt I would work it out when I get one, but I am still flying dark and dense. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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