SL 1 Better for MF than AF

[elroustom]

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I've owned my SL 1 for a few years now, love it, but I've been shooting it with adapted lenses, mostly R, some M, and FD macro for negative scanning... On a whim I picked up a Lumix S 1.8/50 and while it's a fine lens (and I'm not underwhelmed by the plastic body either - it's good) I find using the camera in AF is limited and limiting. The joystick no longer magnifies, AE and AF are not so easy to separate, tracking is meh... it's honestly not much better than my Sony a900 was with Minolta lenses, and then it blinks in some situations. Useful, yes, sharp, indeed, faster and more convenient than R or M lenses, sure, in many situations, but not life changing. Anyone else have this same experience, or any advice on getting more from AF on the SL?

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[CptSlevin]

3 hours ago, elroustom said:

or any advice on getting more from AF on the SL?

Get SL2S, best AF for 2k USD

[elroustom]

11 minutes ago, CptSlevin said:

Get SL2S, best AF for 2k USD

At some point, yeah. My eyes are are making my film cameras harder to use. Sigh... 

[LocalHero1953]

4 hours ago, elroustom said:

I've owned my SL 1 for a few years now, love it, but I've been shooting it with adapted lenses, mostly R, some M, and FD macro for negative scanning... On a whim I picked up a Lumix S 1.8/50 and while it's a fine lens (and I'm not underwhelmed by the plastic body either - it's good) I find using the camera in AF is limited and limiting. The joystick no longer magnifies, AE and AF are not so easy to separate, tracking is meh... it's honestly not much better than my Sony a900 was with Minolta lenses, and then it blinks in some situations. Useful, yes, sharp, indeed, faster and more convenient than R or M lenses, sure, in many situations, but not life changing. Anyone else have this same experience, or any advice on getting more from AF on the SL?

First piece of advice: don't magnify the view when using AF - it's a waste of time and effort.

Can you explain why "AE and AF are not so easy to separate"? They're different functions. I admit that, while I had the SL 1 for a long time (then the SL2S, now the SL3S), I could have forgotten wrinkles in using the SL1. I never used tracking, just AFs. Nor did I use SL bodies for MF - that's why I had Ms.

I'm not surprised you found AF not life changing - it's a ten year old camera and even at launch was not known as a camera for AF: it had other qualities - and you can say the same about the SL3/SL3-S ten years on. If you want the best AF, then you need another brand.

Edited October 19 by LocalHero1953

[Dazzajl]

Like you, I use my SL 601 exclusively with MF lenses. I do have an AF zoom lens but it’s not particularly great or inspiring. I don’t even really think about it as an AF body now. 

[Semerka]

I do not have an SL1, I have an SL2, so not sure it would be the same. 

On the SL2, when an AF lens is on, I use half press of the shutter button and rotate the focus ring to bring up the magnification. It is a bit of a balancing act though. 

Alternatively, you need to switch the camera to a manual focus mode and then a push of the joystick will bring up the magnification.

On the SL2, in the main menu under Customise Control / Joystick it gives you the option to specify what the joystick will do in manual focus mode and in autofocus mode.

Here you can also separate the AF-L and AE-L. 

I hope this make sense. 

I am in the other camp, I plan to get an M lens at some point in the future, but for now I am only using AF lenses, being a hobbyist. 

 

Edited October 20 by Semerka

[elroustom]

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Thank you all for chiming in! Glad to hear some of my experiences echoed.  

I figured out my AEL problem. I misunderstood the language in the menu (and the manual). Dyslexia... in any case it's bit better. If I keep my use of the AF system simple it's fine.

At least it's completely quiet,

No, no, I don't need the AF like I did when I shot weddings or portraits. Buying that cheap 50 was enough to let me know I wasn't missing anything.

It's a fantastic camera for lenses I really like: the first version R Summicron 50, Elmarit 28, the M35/2 with the goggles looks really cool on it, and even with imperfections in the glass it's sharp lens.

@Semerka if you get one mf lens that fits the SL well, I'd recommend the Summicron R 50 V1, first version has good character, and if you like shooting macro, find the close up lenses that fit that lens (Elpro a or b or both V1).

[AdjusterBrett]

Have SL (601) - and much like you - if I'm shooting manual - I'm shooting on it.  I prefer it over the SL2S (for handling).  I'm of the small bunch that hoped they would adopt the four bottom layout throughout the line - we lost.  NOTHING I've ever had is so welcomed in hand when using vintage/manual as the SL - for all its lacking in todays market -  its likely with me for life (RX1 is the only other with similar standings, and I've had >30 bodies in seven or eight years).  Its the way I feel shooting it.

Have the S1 and TL2 (YES, 3 DOGS in the AF race).

Have the 50/1.8 and the 20-60.

WEIRD: the 50/1.8 & 20-60 work well on the S1 (AFs or AFc if not too much around), but not so well on the SL (better on the TL2).

HOWEVER - I have a plethora of Sigma DG DN glass - and they work much better on the 601.

PLEASE realize, you are coming close to comparing the historically WORST autofocusing bodies (or I should say I am)...  However - it may be in your best interest to either buy an Sig 45/2 or 50/1.4.   I have the 50/1.2 - no real issues on the 601 - slow - but effective.  I will tell you the 50/1.2 sigma beats the 50/1.8 Panasonic on the SL (601) - however - the 50/1.8 is pretty snappy on the S1 (Panasonic - where it is faster than the 50/1.2 - but the 50/1.2 on the S1 is still faster - noticeably- vs it on the 601).  Think it's something baked into the Lumix line.

I do use AF, then punch in (zoom) to critically focus if its really really important (splitting eyelashes) - but its rare - usually I just roll the dice and get what I get - if you are patient - and the scene / subject allows for the two second delay - its still pretty decent - but if not - then I usually step down and zone (arguably a mortal sin on an f1.2 lens).

Food for thought - $0.02 from the dark side (non pro, non fanboy).

[elroustom]

Thanks @AdjusterBrett that was comprehensive! And there is something to SL, isn't there! The RAW files are deep and malleable. I'll get used to the AF... 

Frustrating how my eyes have changed, but SL is the perfect work-around. Even with glasses on. Such a great EVF. 

[Canonier]

Can't agree here. I also use R-lenses with my SL (601), but find the manual focusing a bit quirky as it only offers focus peaking which is not my first choice. I'd rather have a focus assist like Canon offers which works very much like a splitscreen viewfinder in the olden days and is much more precise than peaking. I love to use my R lenses but find myself shunning them.

[BernardC]

30 minutes ago, Canonier said:

Can't agree here. I also use R-lenses with my SL (601), but find the manual focusing a bit quirky as it only offers focus peaking which is not my first choice.

The SL's viewfinder is sharp enough the assess focus as-is, without any overlays. I occasionally zoom-in (via the joystick) to confirm that my eyes aren't getting tired, but that's just a sanity check.

Obviously, I can't see the finder through someone else's eyes, but it looks great through my eyes.

[elroustom]

6 hours ago, Canonier said:

Can't agree here. I also use R-lenses with my SL (601), but find the manual focusing a bit quirky as it only offers focus peaking which is not my first choice. I'd rather have a focus assist like Canon offers which works very much like a splitscreen viewfinder in the olden days and is much more precise than peaking. I love to use my R lenses but find myself shunning them.

My failing eyes drove me to the SL, but of course it's so personal. I used to shoot Sony mirrorless before, the close up feature was helpful there, but on the SL it is very precise, and really doesn't take much time away from the process. I never use peaking, too distracting. There are some frustrating aspects to the SL for sure... it seems to suit how I shoot. But to your point, manual focusing an R body is better. So many choices 🙂 not enough time.

[AdjusterBrett]

On 10/22/2025 at 10:11 AM, Canonier said:

Can't agree here. I also use R-lenses with my SL (601), but find the manual focusing a bit quirky as it only offers focus peaking which is not my first choice. I'd rather have a focus assist like Canon offers which works very much like a splitscreen viewfinder in the olden days and is much more precise than peaking. I love to use my R lenses but find myself shunning them.

Today, Nikon leads with eye detect with coded lenses (which means crap in the world of vintage/manual).  I don't do Canon (closed system), period.  Nikon vs Sony vs Fuji - fuji kills them all with peaking accuracy (better algorithms) and with display - their side by side - where its the framed with an magnified overlay is the best of the best IMO.

Leica (have SL, TL2, had SL2S) focus peaking is an afterthought (worthless).  Panasonic (have S1) is OK, just OK, but no match for fuji.  However - and I know everyone will once again say no - but side by side - SL tops both the SL2S and the S1 for me for manual focusing.  I wear glasses (issues with far sight), but do not wear when shooting and still can split eyelashes with the SL.  Add to that the handling (nothing is even close), it wins FOR ME.

I have tried more bodies than most camera store employees - I waltz around events dragging a wheeled camera case (Mr. indecisive, as I always have the SL, S1, TL2, several Sigma native, and several unique vintage lenses).  For instance - my 10 y/o daughter and her bestie - we've visited cedar point amusement park >20 times annually for the last several years (season pass) - and I'm there to: 1) NOT embarrass them. 2) drive. 3) pay and 4) take pictures.  So if you have your children at the amusement park - and you notice me lugging the case, then setting up shop (pulling a body, attaching a lens) - most photographers WILL strike up a conversation, especially if you see a TL2 w/ visoflex and some unique antique strapped on its front.  Guess what - I just happen to have both NIKON and SONY adapters for M42 - why - because I want him to try my lens, then I let him try the TL2, the S1, and the SL - WHILE I try whatever is strapped around his neck.  What have I learned...  I always have some of the more fringe lenses with me - here you want soap bubbles - shoot this, here you want swirly, shoot this (all with instructions of what the backdrop needs to be), here you want (FILL IN THE BLANK).  That - for me - is half the fun of shooting.

I've learned - 

First - the A1 (and A7R5) has an AWESOME EVF - good god - but guess what - even on my easiest focusing lens (MD50/1.7) its still not easy - way to much stuff to mess with - still does not displace the SL when you take focusing and SHOOTING (that means adapting to changing light and scenes on the fly) into consideration.  YES limited time with most - but not changed my mind.  

Advancements in AI implementation and LiDAR WILL change the peaking world in the next few years - so today - the SL is an absolute bargain.

I would suggest that either you turn off the peaking and LOOK - and if near sight is an issue - try readers or script on your SL.  I JUST got an R135/2.8 - and used first time last week - LOVED IT (good heavens if only some of my beloved Russian lenses were made this smooth) - and here is a shot from some distance - not a person (my family RUNS away when I get new glass) - just the underside of a bridge with some interesting light - focus is on the far left side at 2.8, then the dam at f4.  Not perfect - if you really zoom on the originals there is some CA and LOCA - but if someone is zooming in that far - good for them.

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[AdjusterBrett]

Two more - note the wall of locks - something I've shot 100 times - I was shooting for getting split between the R&M and the LOVE - neither in perfect focus - but good enough for my uses (ugh on the Loca).  The second is about 200yds away - hand held w/o ibis - and I'll take it.  No you cannot tell what size lugs are on the panels, but if you are looking for that good of focus handheld - I doubt you will find it at that distance - especially w/o ibis.

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