How to replace wiring on Valoy II?

[HarryFL]

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I have just opened for the first time an original double boxed Valoy II from around 30-40 years ago. Blueish gray. All glass, metal, paint, column plating, and wood are perfect. Rubber has crumbled. Their packing paper has seen better days but no harm done. I cannot figure out how to disassemble the top section to remove and replace the wiring. In the photo, removing the ring and screw indicated in blue are no help, though it does free up the lamp for positioning. Afraid to twist things with too much torque. Any suggestions much appreciated by a new member here. Confess that the pictures are taken with iPad for expediency and of course regret that... more appropriate equipment is on hand.

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Edited August 14, 2023 by HarryFL

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[Susie]

Hi Harry, and welcome to the forum.

The black knurled rings that you show do not affect the wiring.  The smaller is merely a cap over the end of the steel tube.  The larger of the two releases the tube so that it can be positioned within the dome to provide the best light distribution (the position varies with different bulbs depending on the internal position of the filiament.)

If you release the larger of the two, the tube can then be slid to its lowest position.  The bulb holder (which is a standard pendant type) can then be unscrewed from the tube, and be rewired.  It might be very tight - and wear gloves in case it slips and slices into your hand!  The should be a bakelite shield on the holder, but I doubt it really matters.

Enjoy your new enlarger, it certainly is a perfect compliment to a Leica camera.

Hope this helps,

Susie

[M.Hilo]

Not near my darkroom now. I have renewed the Valoy II's wiring several times but I always forget the steps. It will be a couple of days before I can check, but in the mean time I can tell you that rewiring this enlarger is quite easy. I am not very skilled, so when I can do it, just about everyone should be able to do it.

I have the feeling the small screw is important, but I don't remember when. From your picture I see nothing wrong with the black rubber. Are you sure it is not okay?

The Blue-ish grey version often came with the frosted AN condenser, which is a real plus. Perhaps you know already: to take the condenser out is simply a matter of pushing it up a bit, then turn it and it will come down. It is locked in there with a bayonet and there's no need to remove it from the top. Once the condenser is out you can give it a good cleaning.

Depending on it's action, you can also consider to service the large helicoid. Again, not difficult. All you need is some cleaning alcohol and an old toothbrush. And some helical grease! They are 2 ways to do this and both include unscrewing the four screws that hold it in place. Once you have it out, it is generally enough to clean the screwthread with the alcohol. You just turn the helical so you have 90 percent of the screwthread open. Then you use your finger to put the grease. Turn the helicoid all the way up and down several times and clean away the helical grease on the sides, using qtips. It is generally enough to clean the helicoid like this. The 100 percent cleaning involves taking apart the helical itself. Someone tried to teach me and I must have a paper on that, but I have never felt confident enough to do this.

 

[HarryFL]

Thank you Susie and M.Hilo very much for the useful information. I was unclear in the mention of rubber; it is just the actual wiring that has crumbled, the strain relief section of rubber entering the housing is intact and reusable.

My difficulties were due to the 40+ years since this enlarger was made and first out of its box. It took all my strength and several attempts to unscrew the brass pieces of the lamp holder and to pull the wiring with the strain relief rubber "B" out of the top of the assembly after removing the retaining ring shown as "A" in the photos and disconnecting the leads "C" from the socket terminals. It also took great effort to remove the strain relief rubber from the wiring. Luckily the desired junctions released and there were no unhoped-for consequences. 

You may notice at "D" there is a screw, unused by Leitz, for attachment of a third wire (a ground connection). If I can find a three wire cord with 1/4 inch diameter it would be possible to  install a proper three prong plug as a safety upgrade. I would keep the original Leitz switch at the 6 foot point in the 12 foot cord. Is that perhaps unwise though?? My intention is to sell this pristine one since it is not needed and changing the plug might be a deviation from the original from a collector's viewpoint if such persons exist.

A parting question since the two of you are knowledgeable on this equipment. I have a number of these very useful plated columns with attached rib as used on enlargers and copying stands and from the first one wondered how in the world Leitz installed the several screws along the inside length of the tube to attach to the rib?? I have seen one tube that had three holes in the tube to reach easily the only three attachment screws then used and wonder if that was a switch across the whole production for economy.

The condenser is indeed the later one. I will service the helicoid as described.

 

 

 

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[M.Hilo]

Re your question at the end of you post, I am not sure if I understand you, but you seem to be wondering how Leitz operated the screws on the inside of the column to fix the guide rail?

Indeed, there are many screws that fix the guide rail of a Valoy II from the inside. Leitz made a special tool for this. But I have never seen it. And I never needed it.