leob Posted November 27, 2007 Share #21 Posted November 27, 2007 Advertisement (gone after registration) If you want to test your Meter.. please don´t use Ilford XP2, it is such a forgiving film, you can expose it from iso 50 to 800 with no change in the C-41 process, which means your meter must be completely turned off, to produce bad exposure (i use this film mainly with my holga, and i always get an image..) If you want to test your meter, use a slide film instead, they are very, very unforgiving I agree something with the development went utterly wrong, perhaps you should to the development yourself. It´s really easy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted November 27, 2007 Posted November 27, 2007 Hi leob, Take a look here need help, please. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
thomasw_ Posted November 27, 2007 Share #22 Posted November 27, 2007 Just out of interest, what are you using Thomas? Hey Rob; Here are the details:> MP ZM 25/2,8 Adox CMS 20 developed with Adotech 5.25 Minutes. Regards, Thomas Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rob_x2004 Posted November 27, 2007 Share #23 Posted November 27, 2007 Adox CMS 20 developed with Adotech 5.25 Minutes. Thanks. Nice look. Will have to keep my eyes skinned for some. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
fursan Posted November 28, 2007 Author Share #24 Posted November 28, 2007 Thomas, thanks for your help. am in edmonton, alberta now and shall try to get the developing gear once i get back home. btw, it was -25 c a little while ago outside!! film was the last thing on my mind. take care. Hi Fursan, I think that you would benefit hugely from developing your own negatives. Perhaps instead of wet printing, you could scan them with a decent scanner like an Epson V700 for the purposes of sharing your images on the Web. Developing B+W film is quite straightforward; you just need a changing bag, a developing tank, thermometer, developer, stop bath and fixer. Most of the mixing containers can be purchased at "dollar" stores for very little. It is quite fun and you get the control over the developing and scanning. Regards, Thomas Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
imported_peter_m Posted November 28, 2007 Share #25 Posted November 28, 2007 Thomas, thanks for your help. am in edmonton, alberta now and shall try to getthe developing gear once i get back home. btw, it was -25 c a little while ago outside!! film was the last thing on my mind. take care. It will get a bit warmer as you are heading west It is starting to get a bit winterish Peter Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Danny2p Posted November 29, 2007 Share #26 Posted November 29, 2007 Hello Thomas, If I were you I would have a nice talk with the lab technician. Attached are a few unfortunately digitized photos with decent contrast that were developed at my local pro lab (G King in Vancouver BC Canada) without any manipulations (as requested). The Oregon forest photo was taken with the 35 F2 Asph. and the others with the 50 Summi. I used the same film you did. Regards, Daniel Welcome, dear visitor! As registered member you'd see an image here… Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! Link to post Share on other sites Simply register for free here – We are always happy to welcome new members! ' data-webShareUrl='https://www.l-camera-forum.com/topic/37768-need-help-please/?do=findComment&comment=414474'>More sharing options...
Danny2p Posted November 29, 2007 Share #27 Posted November 29, 2007 Advertisement (gone after registration) Sorry, I should specified the film speed I used: TMax 100 Cheers to all! Daniel Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
NZDavid Posted November 30, 2007 Share #28 Posted November 30, 2007 Terrific shots, Danny, great lighting! Fursan, I'd tend to agree your shots were underexposed, though poor development (perhaps tired developer) may also be to blame. Apart from grain, they look flat. Have a good look at the negatives, rather than the scans. If there is lots of clear film with very little detail apparent that means they are underexposed. Try again! I haven't shot B+W for ages, but Ilford Pan F was always a favorite. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
andybarton Posted November 30, 2007 Share #29 Posted November 30, 2007 When processing my B&W film at home, I always cut the recommended developing time by about 10%. This leaves them looking slightly flat, but they scan much better and can be tweaked in PS to get them where I want. Persevere Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
fursan Posted December 26, 2007 Author Share #30 Posted December 26, 2007 Thanks to all you good folks, i got some bw400cn and ilford xp2 super from the states and got my first processed roll back. methinks it is much much better, dusting, spotting etc. notwithstanding. one issue i found out that the mp and m7 exposure meters are unable to cope with our sunshine, as at f16/f22 the shutter speed of 1/1000 secs seems to be inadequate. otherwise, i am off with practicing with my c41 bw film and having a superb time in the process. thanks for your advice and the best of the seasons greetings to all of you. m7 bw400cn ae little ps for contrast and resize. best regards Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
rubenkok Posted December 26, 2007 Share #31 Posted December 26, 2007 Fahim, Good to see you found c41 b&w film Much better result than the first pictures one issue i found out that the mp and m7 exposure meters are unable to cope with our sunshine, as at f16/f22 the shutter speed of 1/1000 secs seems to be inadequate. Just to much light for the film. Is your ISO setting right ? Maybe you can try ISO 25 film? the best of the seasons greetings to you too All the best, Ruben Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
engelfangen Posted December 26, 2007 Share #32 Posted December 26, 2007 Hey Rob;Here are the details:> MP ZM 25/2,8 Adox CMS 20 developed with Adotech 5.25 Minutes. Regards, Thomas Hi Thomas, do you use the CMS20 at iso 20? I actually shoot only one roll of this film and found it is more Iso 12?! I liked the results on paper, even if the negatives are a little bit thin. No grain at all :-) best regards Marc Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
fursan Posted December 27, 2007 Author Share #33 Posted December 27, 2007 Ruben, thanks for responding. i shall try to set the bw400cn iso to 200 as some have suggested. take care. Fahim,Good to see you found c41 b&w film Much better result than the first pictures one issue i found out that the mp and m7 exposure meters are unable to cope with our sunshine, as at f16/f22 the shutter speed of 1/1000 secs seems to be inadequate. Just to much light for the film. Is your ISO setting right ? Maybe you can try ISO 25 film? the best of the seasons greetings to you too All the best, Ruben Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
vic vic Posted December 27, 2007 Share #34 Posted December 27, 2007 fahim... the results are indeed terrible... ok, if u say that u measured the light well (and also that your iso was dialed correctly too).. then it can be either ugly processing or ugly scanning (or both of course) 1. take your negatives and see how they look on light table. if no light table a white cloudy sky can be nice too... or a white wall strongly but not directly illuminated (especialy with tungsten bulbs)... see if the negative is too thin (too much transparent and too much grey and hardly with any contrast).... if so then it is processing issue... but... if your negatives are with good density and some tonal crispness then it is scanning issue, and that is good , since u can always rescan better .... Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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