hjsesq Posted October 30, 2007 Share #1 Posted October 30, 2007 Advertisement (gone after registration) I recently purchased a used Tri-Elmar 28-35-50 and while I am pleased with the lens, I do have one problem. There is very little click when changing the f stops and it is easy to have the f stop change accidently. Is this a universal problem with this lens? Is there any way of curing the problem without sending it back to Leica? Also it seems to be well suited for the R-D1s - has anyone had experience with this lens and the Epson? Do they work well together and If so, what is the highrst ISO that can be used without too much noise? Thanks - Harris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
Advertisement Posted October 30, 2007 Posted October 30, 2007 Hi hjsesq, Take a look here Tri-Elmar 28-35-50. I'm sure you'll find what you were looking for!
guidomo Posted October 30, 2007 Share #2 Posted October 30, 2007 Is yours the E55 or the E49 version? My E49 has a rather loose aperture ring too. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hjsesq Posted October 30, 2007 Author Share #3 Posted October 30, 2007 It is the E49 - up until now I did not know there were two versions. Which one is the latest? Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean_reid Posted October 30, 2007 Share #4 Posted October 30, 2007 Some Leica lenses have a very light aperture ring action. Leica can probably adjust that for you but only if you feel the time and expense would be justified. The TE works very well on the R-D1. In fact, the Epson is the camera I used when I tested the lens for a review. Cheers, Sean Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
hjsesq Posted October 30, 2007 Author Share #5 Posted October 30, 2007 Sean, Read your review right after I posted my questions - not sure why I did not think to go there first. Sounds like the lens to keep on the R-D1 most of the time and and use the M8for other lenses, depending on situation. Would I use an IR filter on it with the R-D1? Do you know which version of the Tri-Elmar was first - 49 or 55 - and the reason for the change? Best, Harris Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwelland Posted October 30, 2007 Share #6 Posted October 30, 2007 I have a first generation Tri-Elmar - it is E55. I believe that optically the versions are similar but there were mechanical changes between the lenses, plus you get DoF on the mount. The E55 version doesn't have a focus tab on it. Btw: Can you get a modified focus ring from Leica with a tab on it for older lenses? I did ask Leica NJ but the request appears to be in their bit bucket. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean_reid Posted October 30, 2007 Share #7 Posted October 30, 2007 Advertisement (gone after registration) Sean, Read your review right after I posted my questions - not sure why I did not think to go there first. Sounds like the lens to keep on the R-D1 most of the time and and use the M8for other lenses, depending on situation. Would I use an IR filter on it with the R-D1? Do you know which version of the Tri-Elmar was first - 49 or 55 - and the reason for the change? Best, Harris Hi Harris, It's a good all-arounder if one doesn't need (or want) maximum resolution or contrast. The question of IR-cut filters on the Epson is interesting. In fact, this past Saturday I was shooting a wedding with three bodies, the M8, R-D1 and 5D. As I was swapping lenses around, I wondered about putting the filtered lenses (these were fast primes) on the Epson. It does, indeed, make sense to filter lenses on the R-D1 for color work (especially under tungsten) but then there is, of course, the potential for cyan drift. One would need to do some actual tests to decide which focal lengths can be filtered on the Epson without red vignetting/cyan drift. Naturally, the higher crop factor on the R-D1 lessens the EFOV of each lens (which, theoretically, should lessen cyan drift). But, of course, the sensor is different, internal camera filtering is different, etc. That day, I only filtered the 50 on the Epson because I was fairly sure that would create no problems. I suspect a filtered 35 might be fine as well but I'd have to test to be sure. A 28 or wider lens would also, obviously, require some testing. As to the history of Leica lenses, there are people on the forum who are much better versed than I am. I've always just chosen the lenses I wanted for my work but I've never been a collector, per se. So, otherwise, I mostly know only about the lenses that I've tested first hand. Some here, largely from memory, know each variation and evolution of all kinds of Leica lenses (right down to some obscure details). They'll have the TE differences for you in a flash. Cheers, Sean Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
stunsworth Posted October 30, 2007 Share #8 Posted October 30, 2007 Hi Harris, I think this is a known issue with some Tri-Elmars, I've heard of other people having the same issue. I have the second version and I think it's been back to Solms around 3 times to have this problem fixed. It always returned with the problem removed, but it returned after a short while. It's been ok since the last time it went back 18 months or so. In my case I lost the clicks completely. I think the problem is caused by the front ring on the lens coming loose. I've always put that down to fixing and removing the lens hood causing things to loosen up, but I could be wrong on that. If you gently press the front ring onto the body of the lens you should feel that the clicks come back - of course that doesn't help out in the field, but it seems an indication that something has worked loose. It doesn't seem to affect the performance at all, but it becomes very easy to knock the aperture ring and change the setting accidentaly. Also it becomes impossinle to accurately change the aperture setting while looking through the viewfinder. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
gwelland Posted October 30, 2007 Share #9 Posted October 30, 2007 On the topic of UV/IR filters and the R-D1 - the camera definitely benefits if you use them as it too has a mild case of magenta-itus. The standard photo of a black camera bag will show it easily. I didn't have the Tri Elmar when I tried this but certainly lenses like the Zeiss 21/2.8 and CV 15 did exhibit cyan drift with UV/IR filters. I used Adobe DNG converter to do ERF->DNG conversion process and then used these DNG's with Cornerfix. A while back I built a version of Cornerfix on the Mac that would accept non-M8 files without warning and used this to create profiles for the R-D1. It worked fine. I haven't tried the latest build but Sandy's Mac version should work too - if I recall it gave you a nag dialog about non-M8 files. Oh btw, it also fixes the vignette with the R-D1 too. Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
sandymc Posted October 30, 2007 Share #10 Posted October 30, 2007 I haven't tried the latest build but Sandy's Mac version should work too - if I recall it gave you a nag dialog about non-M8 files. Yes, the latest version of CornerFix will actually work on any DNG that comes out of a Bayer sensor camera. But there is the nag screen, largely because I don't actually (yet) check that it is a Bayer sensor as opposed to something more exotic. Sandy Link to post Share on other sites More sharing options...
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