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The M8, ISO2400 and Me....


johnastovall

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I love shooting in the dark. I've been spoiled by a 5D and 50/1.0 and ISO3200. I have heard some harsh things about the M8 and it's 2400. Well I shot some this morning between 5am and 7am and have found It depends a lot on the look you want and once a touch of sun got in the sky things went down hill. But that said I got one nice one. I like a lot of black around a small patch of light. It is the way I see things at night on the back roads of Texas, small islands of light in night's sea. This was with the CV Nokton 50 wide open. Here it is, "Summer and the boys are gone or what can be more empty than a small town baseball field when summer has gone..." You can see my of my night work here.

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Fantastic shots ... but what settings and equipment were you using?

I want to give it a go.

Best Wishes ... Jim.

 

Until now, It mostly with a Canon 5D and the 50/1.0, 85/1.2 and some with the 35 and 24 1.4's and a few with the R-D1 at 1200 and the 35/1.2 Nokton. I use Noise Ninja and Pixel Genius's sharpening and smoothing tools and then work with curves on my black point. All most all are handheld but for a few which were on tripod when I was doing HDR or using the Zeiss 21. I'm very happy with the M8 and the fast CV's. It is much easier to focus in very low light. I'm dying for a Noctilux.... I had a Canon 50/0.95 moded to the M-mount but it has serious front focus issues and I have to get them resolved some how....

 

My advice go try, it the night is alive with light. I learned by shooting a lot and now know all the policemen in our small town. :)

 

I'll be out next Sunday with the Nokton 35/1.2 and see what we'll find. I did find that the cut filter can cause 'UFO' flares from strong small point sources of light but the f/1.0 Canon liked to make red rainbows with them. I have the filter off next time.

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John, off topic. I have a question about the 5D and Canon 50/1.0. I've used two of these lenses in the past and I found that both of them would nearly always produce bright cusps or arcs of light which would originate from light sources in the picture. Since one of them was a nearly new at a bargain price I've kept it, but I wish I could solve the problem. I suspect the edge of an internal lens element needs blackening. Have you had this problem?

 

I also have a modified 0.95 TV lens which used to focus fine on the M8 and RD-1. The M8 has just returned from Solms with a 75 Summilux. The combination was adjusted for back focus - that's now fine. I haven't tested the 0.95 yet, I hope it's still OK on the camera.

 

Bob.

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John, off topic. I have a question about the 5D and Canon 50/1.0. I've used two of these lenses in the past and I found that both of them would nearly always produce bright cusps or arcs of light which would originate from light sources in the picture. Since one of them was a nearly new at a bargain price I've kept it, but I wish I could solve the problem. I suspect the edge of an internal lens element needs blackening. Have you had this problem?

 

I also have a modified 0.95 TV lens which used to focus fine on the M8 and RD-1. The M8 has just returned from Solms with a 75 Summilux. The combination was adjusted for back focus - that's now fine. I haven't tested the 0.95 yet, I hope it's still OK on the camera.

 

Bob.

 

I had problem and still do under some conditions of bright cusps and arcs of light with the f/1.0. The are fewer after having Canon do a full CLA on it last March but sometimes it still happens and I just have to live with it because it can do things my other lenses can't. Here are some of the more spectacular flares before Alignment. This shows about every bad habit it has.

 

 

 

I've go a Canon 50mm f0.95 which has major front focus problems. Know any one who can fix it? I think the person who did the M-mount conversion got in over his head with it and my R-D1's rangefinder.

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I thought you delayed buying a M8 because you were on a budget :)

 

BTW, the picture looks great. Very film like.

 

I'm starting a career change, "Have M8, Will Shoot for Cash." :)

 

I just saw too much here which reminded me of why I got my first Leica some forty years ago. So, I took Heinlein's advice and budgeted the luxuries first. The cats don't mind my eating with them.

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I love shooting in the dark. I've been spoiled by a 5D and 50/1.0 and ISO3200. I have heard some harsh things about the M8 and it's 2400. Well I shot some this morning between 5am and 7am and have found It depends a lot on the look you want and once a touch of sun got in the sky things went down hill. But that said I got one nice one. I like a lot of black around a small patch of light. It is the way I see things at night on the back roads of Texas, small islands of light in night's sea. This was with the CV Nokton 50 wide open. Here it is, "Summer and the boys are gone or what can be more empty than a small town baseball field when summer has gone..."

 

M8, ISO2500, CV 21mm lens at f/4, 1/24th second, Tungsten WB

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Lovely images in this discussion ... one of the learning curve things for me when shooting with the m8 at 2400 (or 1250) is that it's really critical to get the exposure right (for the highlights). I'm thinking of getting myself a Minolta spot meter again (damn - why did I sell my old one a year ago...) to deal with this. Sometimes I'm either guessing and just dialing in 1/30th - and it's surprising how well that can work - or I'm spot metering with a DSLR (!) If you GET the exposure right, then noise issues are spectacularly reduced and lovely images can ensue. When you don't and the image is overexposed, there's little that I've found will recover the situation...

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Lovely images in this discussion ... one of the learning curve things for me when shooting with the m8 at 2400 (or 1250) is that it's really critical to get the exposure right (for the highlights). I'm thinking of getting myself a Minolta spot meter again (damn - why did I sell my old one a year ago...) to deal with this. Sometimes I'm either guessing and just dialing in 1/30th - and it's surprising how well that can work - or I'm spot metering with a DSLR (!) If you GET the exposure right, then noise issues are spectacularly reduced and lovely images can ensue. When you don't and the image is overexposed, there's little that I've found will recover the situation...

 

I'm glad to know I'm not the only one thinking about doing that... :D

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Grain in film, and noise from a digital sensor, is much less noticeable in high contrast images. Both are most visible and disturbing in smooth mid-tones without much detail. Shoot a de-focused gray card and see what you get!

 

The old man from the Age of the Kodak Gray Card

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I've long been a fan of photographing at night, but back in the film days I had to use a tripod to get a halfway decent image by the time reciprocity came into effect. I did some with the 5D and it was ok, but the weight of the camera and lens made it difficult to get decent handheld shots even at a high iso. The M8 is really working out, I'm able to mount the 35 lux, set it at 640 and between f1.4 and 2.8 and get some decent handheld night shots. Regardless of what I've read and heard, the sharpness and detail of the M8 file is superior to my 5D files inspite of the higher noise level from the M8.

 

P.S. - Nice work, it's nice to see another small town Texas guy using an M8...

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Will try these hi ISO shots both at 1250 I believe. I think they're very nice,

Steve

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